Yes they do, however if you are looking for a more firm pedal there are a number of different sized GM masters that will work...
GX calipers have similar sized pistons (eye caliper) but much longer ears. They do require 17" wheels though...
Builds Red Line Landcruisers " The Tale of Two 80's" Build
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Yes they do, however if you are looking for a more firm pedal there are a number of different sized GM masters that will work...
GX calipers have similar sized pistons (eye caliper) but much longer ears. They do require 17" wheels though...
RLMS
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- #162
Both axles are now mostly finished. I installed power stop drilled and slotted factory replacement rear rotors with EBC green pads and BlackHawk E brake shoes!
RLMS
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- Joined
- Sep 19, 2007
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- Colo Spgs Colorado
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- #163
Power stop drilled and slotted rotors next to factory rotors!
Removed the grill to gain access to the transmission cooler and condenser, cleaned and straightened fins on both… Decided while it was apart to finish the cut (for the new front bumper) on the core support and inner fender wells.
First cut entailed removing the box on the core support, used a large cutoff wheel on a grinder to cut the box vertically, then used a body saw and cut along the top of the box.
Second cut started at the end of the vertical cut in the core support, and carried the line to just above the lower valence.
Third cut was the inner fender well which required removal of the quarter panels (didn’t want to nick them). Cut the inner fender well by using tape and an angle die grinder with a half used wheel.
Removed pieces of core support and inner fender well…
Profile shot shows how big the front fender wells are in an 80, appears there might be enough room for 37s up front!
Filed down the cut edges to remove the sharp bits, I used both a die grinder with a sanding disc (60 grit), and a 4.5” electric grinder (80 grit) to even up the cut and get the inner fender even with the core support line. (Phone is sitting on the ground)
Cut angle and height was determined by the ¾ view of the truck (wanted it to look correct at that angle). Although this shot is head on...
I will not close up the fender until the rest of the fender is trimmed for 37’s…
While the quarters were off for front bumper work, I decided to knock out a few other small things. Antenna in my 80 has never worked for radio reception (or moved up and down)… Picked up a Wagon gear antenna mount, and accompanying CB gear… Took a little playing with mount measurements to get everything spaced just right, removed and installed the quarter panel about 10 times. Also the mount leans the Antenna back and in a little. It would be possible to change both if needed, for now I am going to run it as is and see if I like it…
Driver side I mounted the pressure relief valve for the power steering reservoir, used an existing threaded nut in the fender ran in a long bolt slid on the mount and capped it with a serrated flange head nut…
The new position actually dictated that I shorten the breather line by about 5”, reconnected the line to the reservoir and pressure relief valve.
Found an early grill, I think it maybe the move…
Straightened the fins on the transmission cooler (had to remove the metal in a few spots), then shot in solvent and forced it out with compressed air. Kept repeating the process until the cooler had nothing but clean air coming out. Remounted the cooler and started looking at places to pass trans cooler lines.
Bent up some 3/8 brake line tubing and threw a flare on the end to hold back the hose clamp. Lines still need to be secured and clamped, but they are roughed into place for now.
Trans lines were remade so that it clears the new bumper and winch, and is tucked out of the way.
Bottom shot you can see the additional cooler mounted to the back of the front cross member, and you can see that both lines go through the same factory through hole…
First cut entailed removing the box on the core support, used a large cutoff wheel on a grinder to cut the box vertically, then used a body saw and cut along the top of the box.
Second cut started at the end of the vertical cut in the core support, and carried the line to just above the lower valence.
Third cut was the inner fender well which required removal of the quarter panels (didn’t want to nick them). Cut the inner fender well by using tape and an angle die grinder with a half used wheel.
Removed pieces of core support and inner fender well…
Profile shot shows how big the front fender wells are in an 80, appears there might be enough room for 37s up front!
Filed down the cut edges to remove the sharp bits, I used both a die grinder with a sanding disc (60 grit), and a 4.5” electric grinder (80 grit) to even up the cut and get the inner fender even with the core support line. (Phone is sitting on the ground)
Cut angle and height was determined by the ¾ view of the truck (wanted it to look correct at that angle). Although this shot is head on...
I will not close up the fender until the rest of the fender is trimmed for 37’s…
While the quarters were off for front bumper work, I decided to knock out a few other small things. Antenna in my 80 has never worked for radio reception (or moved up and down)… Picked up a Wagon gear antenna mount, and accompanying CB gear… Took a little playing with mount measurements to get everything spaced just right, removed and installed the quarter panel about 10 times. Also the mount leans the Antenna back and in a little. It would be possible to change both if needed, for now I am going to run it as is and see if I like it…
Driver side I mounted the pressure relief valve for the power steering reservoir, used an existing threaded nut in the fender ran in a long bolt slid on the mount and capped it with a serrated flange head nut…
The new position actually dictated that I shorten the breather line by about 5”, reconnected the line to the reservoir and pressure relief valve.
Found an early grill, I think it maybe the move…
Straightened the fins on the transmission cooler (had to remove the metal in a few spots), then shot in solvent and forced it out with compressed air. Kept repeating the process until the cooler had nothing but clean air coming out. Remounted the cooler and started looking at places to pass trans cooler lines.
Bent up some 3/8 brake line tubing and threw a flare on the end to hold back the hose clamp. Lines still need to be secured and clamped, but they are roughed into place for now.
Trans lines were remade so that it clears the new bumper and winch, and is tucked out of the way.
Bottom shot you can see the additional cooler mounted to the back of the front cross member, and you can see that both lines go through the same factory through hole…
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Photobucket has changed the policy on 3rd party image hosting which sucks since I have been using it since 06.... Google photo's for the win, I guess we will see how long this lasts...
Cut out some 3/32” sheet, shaped the new piece so the weld had room for 100% penetration. After the piece was shaped correctly I punched a hole in the middle and welded a flange head nut to the back side. This will be used to mount a rock shield for the GM radiator side tank (at some point)...
Got a PL259 connector soldered onto the end of the antenna wire and screwed it into the connector of the splitter (I now have crystal clear radio for the first time in this truck.) Used two ¾” Adel clamps to deal with the excess wire, I have put the fender on for what maybe the last time (for awhile) I’ll start putting the nose of the truck back together…
Turned out some 1.25” 4130 draglink and tie-rod, wrench reliefs are milled with a 90* index to each other…
Installed the lower valence which took quite a bit of work (mine isn't very straight), then dug through a box of blinker housings to find suitable replacements (mine where both cracked and chipped). Tried to drop in the winch, length of the winch will not pass the side bars on the bumper, width wouldn’t clear the grill and valance. Removed the bumper hardware and slid it about half way off the frame horns to get the winch to pass through. Then bolted the winch to the bumper and slid the bumper back into position. (I am very pleased at the clearance the winch has installed in place.) I removed the contactor off the top of the winch and then tightened all related hardware. The front bumper holds a 10k lbs. winch nicely to the contour of the truck.
Mounted the stripped down contactor on the OE cruise control bracket. Lots more wiring to go!
Routing from winch to contactor used two 1" Adel clamps to hold it in place. Will wire it to the contactor soon...
Finished up the winch side of the wires...
Camera is a bit low (even with the top of the bumper) hopefully cooling everything won’t be an issue as the grill has plenty of room for airflow…
Cut out some 3/32” sheet, shaped the new piece so the weld had room for 100% penetration. After the piece was shaped correctly I punched a hole in the middle and welded a flange head nut to the back side. This will be used to mount a rock shield for the GM radiator side tank (at some point)...
Got a PL259 connector soldered onto the end of the antenna wire and screwed it into the connector of the splitter (I now have crystal clear radio for the first time in this truck.) Used two ¾” Adel clamps to deal with the excess wire, I have put the fender on for what maybe the last time (for awhile) I’ll start putting the nose of the truck back together…
Turned out some 1.25” 4130 draglink and tie-rod, wrench reliefs are milled with a 90* index to each other…
Installed the lower valence which took quite a bit of work (mine isn't very straight), then dug through a box of blinker housings to find suitable replacements (mine where both cracked and chipped). Tried to drop in the winch, length of the winch will not pass the side bars on the bumper, width wouldn’t clear the grill and valance. Removed the bumper hardware and slid it about half way off the frame horns to get the winch to pass through. Then bolted the winch to the bumper and slid the bumper back into position. (I am very pleased at the clearance the winch has installed in place.) I removed the contactor off the top of the winch and then tightened all related hardware. The front bumper holds a 10k lbs. winch nicely to the contour of the truck.
Mounted the stripped down contactor on the OE cruise control bracket. Lots more wiring to go!
Routing from winch to contactor used two 1" Adel clamps to hold it in place. Will wire it to the contactor soon...
Finished up the winch side of the wires...
Camera is a bit low (even with the top of the bumper) hopefully cooling everything won’t be an issue as the grill has plenty of room for airflow…
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Looking badass.
A little step backwards to show where we are going, removed the contactor from the winch so it can be relocated under the hood.
Picture of the contactor wiring for reference, since its being rewired in a remote location…
Removed the bumper and winch and drilled a 7/8 hole for the plug receptacle then two smaller holes (5mm) for the ears. On the back of the plug hardware I used two Adel clamps to secure the winch ground wire to the bumper. Clipped the pig tail so longer wires can be installed.
After soldering on the extension used heat shrink to cover the joints, and two small sections of 3/8” heat shrink to bond the wires together before and after the joint. Then used tape every 10” to bond the wires before putting it all in the large loom on the passenger side of the winch…
Bonded control wires are loomed into the large loom, still need to deal with the small exposed part...
Control plug on passenger side of the bumper, it is easier to reach in from the bottom of the bumper, however it is possible to plug it in from the top…
Picture from behind the bumper with rubber cover on…
Picture of the contactor wiring for reference, since its being rewired in a remote location…
Removed the bumper and winch and drilled a 7/8 hole for the plug receptacle then two smaller holes (5mm) for the ears. On the back of the plug hardware I used two Adel clamps to secure the winch ground wire to the bumper. Clipped the pig tail so longer wires can be installed.
After soldering on the extension used heat shrink to cover the joints, and two small sections of 3/8” heat shrink to bond the wires together before and after the joint. Then used tape every 10” to bond the wires before putting it all in the large loom on the passenger side of the winch…
Bonded control wires are loomed into the large loom, still need to deal with the small exposed part...
Control plug on passenger side of the bumper, it is easier to reach in from the bottom of the bumper, however it is possible to plug it in from the top…
Picture from behind the bumper with rubber cover on…
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2fpower
SILVER Star
Sammy, are you just dropping these pics anywhere now to make us jealous? @SammyT08FJ
Dang wrong tread....lol
You dont have to take down the pic! Its kind of nice seeing something other than car junk...
Bent up another 28" section of 3/8” tube, drilled a hole in the back of the cross member and pressed in another riv-nut, to anchor the hard line to the frame.
Used a short 90* fitting and then a 45* pushlock fitting to get the inlet of the trans cooler parallel with the outlet (hardline).
Took a few measurements with the old draglink in place then removed it to get the TREs pulled. Buttered the shanks in aluminum anti-seize and installed them in the new draglink (4130; 1.25” X .375” wall drilled an tapped for 7/8-18). Re-installed the draglink to the previously mentioned dimensions and tightened everything back down to spec…
Cut about a foot off of the transmission lines then snuck in our hydraulic flaring tool to give the hose clamps something to snug up against. Also when getting the flaring tool into place I originally grabbed 3/8 line dies as it turns out I have 5/16 trans lines which means this drivetrain most likely came out of a 2wd…
Took about 3 rounds of snugging up the fuel injection line clamps to get rid of all the leaks, ended up using a mixture of oil cooler hose and fuel injection hose, and then wound up using 14 14-16MM clamps and 4 10-13mm…
Pictured is a Thermostasis 165* oil thermostat, have had good luck with these!
After getting the transmission cooler lines reconnected, the truck is drivable once again. I adjusted the idle, it now sits right at 600 RPM (in gear) re-adjusted the TPS to .53 volts and the truck runs and starts much better than it ever has. Also reinstalled the chromoly draglink...
Used a short 90* fitting and then a 45* pushlock fitting to get the inlet of the trans cooler parallel with the outlet (hardline).
Took a few measurements with the old draglink in place then removed it to get the TREs pulled. Buttered the shanks in aluminum anti-seize and installed them in the new draglink (4130; 1.25” X .375” wall drilled an tapped for 7/8-18). Re-installed the draglink to the previously mentioned dimensions and tightened everything back down to spec…
Cut about a foot off of the transmission lines then snuck in our hydraulic flaring tool to give the hose clamps something to snug up against. Also when getting the flaring tool into place I originally grabbed 3/8 line dies as it turns out I have 5/16 trans lines which means this drivetrain most likely came out of a 2wd…
Took about 3 rounds of snugging up the fuel injection line clamps to get rid of all the leaks, ended up using a mixture of oil cooler hose and fuel injection hose, and then wound up using 14 14-16MM clamps and 4 10-13mm…
Pictured is a Thermostasis 165* oil thermostat, have had good luck with these!
After getting the transmission cooler lines reconnected, the truck is drivable once again. I adjusted the idle, it now sits right at 600 RPM (in gear) re-adjusted the TPS to .53 volts and the truck runs and starts much better than it ever has. Also reinstalled the chromoly draglink...
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Didnt' take any pictures, but installed the 4130 tie-rod and toed it in 1/8" (for a 37" tire)...
Rear crossmember after removing all of the rear bumper plastic.
All the bits leftover after cutting the frame rails to specified dimension…
Trimmed up frame horns…
Shortly after attempting the first fitment we noticed that I got a de-flared bumper, some cutting shall ensue…
Side wing trimmed to the contour of the fender flare…
Bumper fully fitted with all hardware in, need to enclose the tube on the side wings. Also tape off the exposed plate and hit it with some satin tractor paint…
I drilled 5 equally spaced ¼” holes as I want to make a shroud (rectangular 57.4375 X 2) so that no light comes through between the tailgate and the bumper…
Rear crossmember after removing all of the rear bumper plastic.
All the bits leftover after cutting the frame rails to specified dimension…
Trimmed up frame horns…
Shortly after attempting the first fitment we noticed that I got a de-flared bumper, some cutting shall ensue…
Side wing trimmed to the contour of the fender flare…
Bumper fully fitted with all hardware in, need to enclose the tube on the side wings. Also tape off the exposed plate and hit it with some satin tractor paint…
I drilled 5 equally spaced ¼” holes as I want to make a shroud (rectangular 57.4375 X 2) so that no light comes through between the tailgate and the bumper…
Installed the bumper trim piece for test fitment after putting in the proper holes. (Aluminum covers the gap perfectly, can’t see any light between the bumper and tub…)
Shot the back of the aluminum piece with semi-gloss black and it disappears against the bumper, used ¼-20 Black Oxide flange head bolts and stover nuts for final. Seven months later (just sitting) the hardware is forming rust so it will be pulled out as that drives me crazy. I am going to look for some other hardware that is more weather resistant (maybe Nickle coating, or just paint the bolt heads with a small brush)…
Also “not” in the picture I miter cut the exhaust so that it was just out of the plain of view (.5” below the frame), however it still directed the exhaust down and outside of the truck…
Next issue to arise was the drivers bank exhaust manifold (Rams Horn) decided that the gasket had gone far enough so I replaced it, however after this point the motor would not be long for this world (3 weeks ish)…
I should backup and tell the story of how this motor was hurt about 4 years ago. I fired up the 80 after doing a lot of maintenance (oil change, messing with the TBI idle speed, and installed a new power steering pump). Since I had just changed the pump I threw a quart of fluid under the hood for top off. I didn’t wind up needing any fluid after checking it and just left the quart in the engine bay for about a week. The next time I start the 80 is to go grab groceries, unbeknownst to myself the quart of oil had been sitting on the oil pressure line (made of plastic) and had stress fractured the line. Oil pump probably pumped the pan dry before I got to the store, I didn’t notice oil on the ground until I got back to the truck and it wasn’t a lot probably half a quart (which I didn’t assume to be mine at the time). Then started to drive it back home when I noticed I had no oil pressure, almost home I found my snail trail leading out
. Amazingly that motor didn’t knock once (4.2 mile round trip) although I was a bit heartbroken as I could only imagine what the bottom end had to look like. After letting the truck sit for a couple weeks I decided to fill it with oil again and amazingly it started right up albeit with about 10 psi less oil pressure assuming the motor would die sooner than later we just kept driving it… Fast forward to about 7 months ago the motor (when warm) would only generate 15 psi at 4k RPM so I decided it was time for a new heart and parked the 80 just as I was getting close (story of my life)… We pulled the motor about a month ago and I gave the drivetrain (sans split case and adapter) to a friend so he could start playing with it…
A little bit of a side track as it doesn’t pertain to this forum but I carefully pulled the wire harness, ECU, and throttle body (I found out why the TBI always ran weird in my 80 as the install of the harness “keyed hot” and the coil were fed off the same power wire with no isolation towards the computer.)
My buddy had been reading online about TBI swaps to Ford (351 W) motors so we tried it and ultimately failed it just took us 2 months before we gave up. On a side note we could have made it work perfectly if I could have gotten anyone to program the ECU properly as it ran good most of the time, but had a few artifacts that we couldn’t get past. (No one would burn us a chip to make it run properly…)
In the Bronco (73) we got it to work with computer controlled ignition timing, modified the factory distributer (removed weights and tacked the distributer shafts together; also pinned the vacuum advance at base), computer had full timing control even added the knock sensor to the block’s water jacket. We made it run good however once up to temperature it would lean pop just off idle which was annoying and due to it being a lean would run a little soft on top (better than the carb on the bottom worse on the top). We pulled the coolant temp sensor and wrapped it up and it would run decent but not perfect, wound up installing a Holley Sniper 2300 and it now runs perfect…
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bw0fmtHdDZPZ5HGq1
Took the Bronco out on a snow run just after a spring snow...
I started looking for decent used motor and stumbled onto a (allegedly) good drivetrain (LQ4 & 4L80E; 2WD), turned out to be complete junk the more I tore it down the worse it was. First sign that there were issues was the double stacked exhaust manifold gaskets on the passenger bank it spiraled downward from there, popped freeze plug on drivers head, and drained out more than a gallon of water out of the oil pan along with the worst oil I have ever seen. Long story short it got returned to the seller except for the 4l80 saving that for another project for now. This ate more than a month as I took it apart and was looking at all the parts, it wasn’t sold to me as a junk core but rather a running take out, then going round and round with seller…
Looked decent from the outside, and was complete…
Looks like the head gasket went on #6 among other issues…
This what it looks like when you bake oil and then just never change it…
Shot the back of the aluminum piece with semi-gloss black and it disappears against the bumper, used ¼-20 Black Oxide flange head bolts and stover nuts for final. Seven months later (just sitting) the hardware is forming rust so it will be pulled out as that drives me crazy. I am going to look for some other hardware that is more weather resistant (maybe Nickle coating, or just paint the bolt heads with a small brush)…
Also “not” in the picture I miter cut the exhaust so that it was just out of the plain of view (.5” below the frame), however it still directed the exhaust down and outside of the truck…
Next issue to arise was the drivers bank exhaust manifold (Rams Horn) decided that the gasket had gone far enough so I replaced it, however after this point the motor would not be long for this world (3 weeks ish)…
I should backup and tell the story of how this motor was hurt about 4 years ago. I fired up the 80 after doing a lot of maintenance (oil change, messing with the TBI idle speed, and installed a new power steering pump). Since I had just changed the pump I threw a quart of fluid under the hood for top off. I didn’t wind up needing any fluid after checking it and just left the quart in the engine bay for about a week. The next time I start the 80 is to go grab groceries, unbeknownst to myself the quart of oil had been sitting on the oil pressure line (made of plastic) and had stress fractured the line. Oil pump probably pumped the pan dry before I got to the store, I didn’t notice oil on the ground until I got back to the truck and it wasn’t a lot probably half a quart (which I didn’t assume to be mine at the time). Then started to drive it back home when I noticed I had no oil pressure, almost home I found my snail trail leading out
. Amazingly that motor didn’t knock once (4.2 mile round trip) although I was a bit heartbroken as I could only imagine what the bottom end had to look like. After letting the truck sit for a couple weeks I decided to fill it with oil again and amazingly it started right up albeit with about 10 psi less oil pressure assuming the motor would die sooner than later we just kept driving it… Fast forward to about 7 months ago the motor (when warm) would only generate 15 psi at 4k RPM so I decided it was time for a new heart and parked the 80 just as I was getting close (story of my life)… We pulled the motor about a month ago and I gave the drivetrain (sans split case and adapter) to a friend so he could start playing with it…
A little bit of a side track as it doesn’t pertain to this forum but I carefully pulled the wire harness, ECU, and throttle body (I found out why the TBI always ran weird in my 80 as the install of the harness “keyed hot” and the coil were fed off the same power wire with no isolation towards the computer.)
My buddy had been reading online about TBI swaps to Ford (351 W) motors so we tried it and ultimately failed it just took us 2 months before we gave up. On a side note we could have made it work perfectly if I could have gotten anyone to program the ECU properly as it ran good most of the time, but had a few artifacts that we couldn’t get past. (No one would burn us a chip to make it run properly…)
In the Bronco (73) we got it to work with computer controlled ignition timing, modified the factory distributer (removed weights and tacked the distributer shafts together; also pinned the vacuum advance at base), computer had full timing control even added the knock sensor to the block’s water jacket. We made it run good however once up to temperature it would lean pop just off idle which was annoying and due to it being a lean would run a little soft on top (better than the carb on the bottom worse on the top). We pulled the coolant temp sensor and wrapped it up and it would run decent but not perfect, wound up installing a Holley Sniper 2300 and it now runs perfect…
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bw0fmtHdDZPZ5HGq1
Took the Bronco out on a snow run just after a spring snow...
I started looking for decent used motor and stumbled onto a (allegedly) good drivetrain (LQ4 & 4L80E; 2WD), turned out to be complete junk the more I tore it down the worse it was. First sign that there were issues was the double stacked exhaust manifold gaskets on the passenger bank it spiraled downward from there, popped freeze plug on drivers head, and drained out more than a gallon of water out of the oil pan along with the worst oil I have ever seen. Long story short it got returned to the seller except for the 4l80 saving that for another project for now. This ate more than a month as I took it apart and was looking at all the parts, it wasn’t sold to me as a junk core but rather a running take out, then going round and round with seller…
Looked decent from the outside, and was complete…
Looks like the head gasket went on #6 among other issues…
This what it looks like when you bake oil and then just never change it…
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After looking for several months finally found a motor and transmission with really low miles, still quite a while until it will be installed as I have a lot of parts to collect however I am getting more excited about the proposition…
L86 out of an 2017 Escalade (1680 miles)
8L90 out of a 2018 Silverado (5 miles)
Spaghetti monster has been sent off to Motech since those guys seem to know the most about Gen V stuff, I am also looking for the full feature compliment...
For fun I threw on the new wheel and tire right before I pulled the old motor…
Cycled the steering with 37’s and it just barely clears, however it doesn’t touch anywhere yet…
Went camping over Memorial Day weekend (Medano Pass) with Justin’s 80 it’s the second time (First time was the week before) I have driven this suspension in the dirt, all I can say is it makes me smile!
First night in the woods had an awesome sunset…
Over the pass on Sunday to the dunes…
Little dots halfway up the dune are people climbing, we also climbed on the dunes but my phone died at that point…
L86 out of an 2017 Escalade (1680 miles)
8L90 out of a 2018 Silverado (5 miles)
Spaghetti monster has been sent off to Motech since those guys seem to know the most about Gen V stuff, I am also looking for the full feature compliment...
For fun I threw on the new wheel and tire right before I pulled the old motor…
Cycled the steering with 37’s and it just barely clears, however it doesn’t touch anywhere yet…
Went camping over Memorial Day weekend (Medano Pass) with Justin’s 80 it’s the second time (First time was the week before) I have driven this suspension in the dirt, all I can say is it makes me smile!
First night in the woods had an awesome sunset…
Over the pass on Sunday to the dunes…
Little dots halfway up the dune are people climbing, we also climbed on the dunes but my phone died at that point…
Picked up a frame that is a bit “straighter” than the one under my truck. Got right to cutting off the motor mounts and cleaning up the frame.
Ground motor mount welds down to roughly a 32nd (tall) then finish sanded with 36, 60, and finished with 80.
Arts and crafts day (along with a small amount of CAD), I usually nail stuff like this down in about 3 rounds of tweaking, this one took about 8 to get it to what you see… May need about two more to get it done completely...
Above image transferred to manila folder, thus far the fitment is looking close enough to burn out a piece of ¼” plate…
Ground motor mount welds down to roughly a 32nd (tall) then finish sanded with 36, 60, and finished with 80.
Arts and crafts day (along with a small amount of CAD), I usually nail stuff like this down in about 3 rounds of tweaking, this one took about 8 to get it to what you see… May need about two more to get it done completely...
Above image transferred to manila folder, thus far the fitment is looking close enough to burn out a piece of ¼” plate…
Just burned out the final frame braces, extended the inner plate (top) so that a perpendicular gusset can be added to the panhard mount after the motor is fitted. (Thanks for the info Darren!) Second design queue is that the vertical sections have been lengthened off angle to provide more weld surface. Soon I’ll start work on getting these pieces fitted…
Since I have a bare frame I grabbed it with a cherry picker, flipped it on its side to weld the panhard support tube to the bracket. Then did the sides of the panhard bracket as “vertical down” welds, then flipped the frame upside down to do the flat weld. All surfaces were wire wheeled clean, then rubbed down with Acetone… (Welder is a Miller 252, 18.2 volts and 212 IPM wire speed)
Also finalized the outside plate to include plug welds that land on top of the inside frame brace.
Plate through bolted with 1/2" bolts for final fitment, removed 1/32” off the perimeter which squared the edge of the plate (also cut through the hardened edge).
Bolted plate down with ½” bolts then filled the three plug welds which land on the factory internal gusset. Welded large internal hole top then bottom, then welded lower half of front face, then first of 3 passes on the back of the plate to the coil bucket, and alternated sides until it was done.
Since the frame is easy to manipulate I cut the rear cross member welds with a die grinder, then used a mini sledge and flat chisel to remove. Then ground the welds down with a grinder and finished with a 60 grit sanding disc… (total time for removal, to cleaned up frame was 35 minutes) Not having to work around a tub and being able to flip the chassis makes this work very easy…
Got a set of 80 knuckles with Slee high steer arms for cheap, down side is they had been outside for several years so they were a bit crusty. Bead blasted the knuckles, factory lower arms, and Slee high steer arms (2.5 hours; and will need another round for final)… Last night spent three hours riding a tap handle cleaning up all threads in these knuckles. (Use Rotella 15-40 as assembly lube, and drill and tap juice)
Slee high steer arms cleaned up, I’ll shoot them with tractor paint, after cleaning in Acetone…
Since I have a bare frame I grabbed it with a cherry picker, flipped it on its side to weld the panhard support tube to the bracket. Then did the sides of the panhard bracket as “vertical down” welds, then flipped the frame upside down to do the flat weld. All surfaces were wire wheeled clean, then rubbed down with Acetone… (Welder is a Miller 252, 18.2 volts and 212 IPM wire speed)
Also finalized the outside plate to include plug welds that land on top of the inside frame brace.
Plate through bolted with 1/2" bolts for final fitment, removed 1/32” off the perimeter which squared the edge of the plate (also cut through the hardened edge).
Bolted plate down with ½” bolts then filled the three plug welds which land on the factory internal gusset. Welded large internal hole top then bottom, then welded lower half of front face, then first of 3 passes on the back of the plate to the coil bucket, and alternated sides until it was done.
Since the frame is easy to manipulate I cut the rear cross member welds with a die grinder, then used a mini sledge and flat chisel to remove. Then ground the welds down with a grinder and finished with a 60 grit sanding disc… (total time for removal, to cleaned up frame was 35 minutes) Not having to work around a tub and being able to flip the chassis makes this work very easy…
Got a set of 80 knuckles with Slee high steer arms for cheap, down side is they had been outside for several years so they were a bit crusty. Bead blasted the knuckles, factory lower arms, and Slee high steer arms (2.5 hours; and will need another round for final)… Last night spent three hours riding a tap handle cleaning up all threads in these knuckles. (Use Rotella 15-40 as assembly lube, and drill and tap juice)
Slee high steer arms cleaned up, I’ll shoot them with tractor paint, after cleaning in Acetone…
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Wire wheeled the frame clean, then got final fitment of the plate adjusted into position, rubbed both with acetone to clean.
Completed welding the steering box tubes to the frame (where factory left off; 18v/210), put plate on tacked the inner corners at bottom then 4 tacks under the plate at top, and finally filled the trough between the 3/16 plate, base of tube weld, and frame tube (18.2v/212).
Welded opposite corners at 18v/200, then the top was done at 18.2v/212 in three sections.
On final blended the edge with 50 grit on the die grinder, all edges are smoothed. Wire wheeled the entire piece with a fine brush wire wheel…
Completed welding the steering box tubes to the frame (where factory left off; 18v/210), put plate on tacked the inner corners at bottom then 4 tacks under the plate at top, and finally filled the trough between the 3/16 plate, base of tube weld, and frame tube (18.2v/212).
Welded opposite corners at 18v/200, then the top was done at 18.2v/212 in three sections.
On final blended the edge with 50 grit on the die grinder, all edges are smoothed. Wire wheeled the entire piece with a fine brush wire wheel…
Decided to draw up some new radius arm plates that fit the way I wanted… Moves the radius arm mount forward similar to AutoCraft…
Original Toyota washer resting centered on the new theoretical hole, which will require a small amount of grinding on the new welds… Obviously the washer would have sat on the inside not the outside, also the OD of the washer represents the largest OD that will fit within the space…
Burned out a Jig plate for locating the new hole (transfer punch at this point), jig plate has a punched 18mm hole (which is smaller than the original hole). Plate is aligned on the old hole with justification to the bottom (6 o’clock) and forward position (9 o’clock; for the pictured side of the frame). Edges (wings) of jig plate are evened against the vertical edge of the original bracket.
Once the new piece is aligned on the original bolt hole “c-clamp” it to the frame, then run the original bolt through the original hole and snug it up. Once jig piece is aligned run a transfer punch through the jig piece to set the location of the new hole…
I didn’t take any pictures of the process, however burned out 4 (18mm diameter) plugs out of 1/8” plate. Clamped copper on top of ¼” plate to the inside of the mount and burned in the plugs. Then sanded down the outside, to what you see in the picture. (You can see the punch marks for the new holes in the below pictures.)
Using a ¼” transfer punch I lined up the production piece over the dimple, clamped it down with two very large c-clamps and tacked it into place alternating sides. On the outside radius arm mounts (they have shape) I tacked the inner locations, then used a large clamp to bend the plate down on the ends (wings) and tacked it.
Pieces were welded in segments, in order to let it cool a little between passes, top center, bottom center, plug, top left, bottom right, top right, and bottom left.
All 4 radius arm tabs were built in the same order, that is to say all 4 locations got punched for the new hole first, then all 4 locations had the original hole filled, etc… For myself it’s the only way to get consistent result pictured is the first side that I welded the other 3 look a bit more uniform…
Welder setup: 18v 200 IPM
I learned something new on the 80’s chassis side radius arm bolts, the only part of the bolt that is 18mm is the shoulder which would protrude into the bushing about 3/16”… (Meaning that the bushing is pinched into plate using only the head side of the bolt in shear…) I am entertaining the idea of making a radius arm (later on) with Duroflex bushings rather than Toyota proper bushings so I only opened the hole to 5/8” at least for now. There is no room for a proper 18mm bolt head at present, however something custom could be made (I try to avoid custom hardware like the plague). Its an odd custom bolt that Toyota made for the chassis side of the suspension...
It’s not an issue for now since the chassis side radius arm bushing is aftermarket (look at post 53 of this thread), before assembly I’ll make a new internal sleeve with the correct bolt ID (on final)…
Original Toyota washer resting centered on the new theoretical hole, which will require a small amount of grinding on the new welds… Obviously the washer would have sat on the inside not the outside, also the OD of the washer represents the largest OD that will fit within the space…
Burned out a Jig plate for locating the new hole (transfer punch at this point), jig plate has a punched 18mm hole (which is smaller than the original hole). Plate is aligned on the old hole with justification to the bottom (6 o’clock) and forward position (9 o’clock; for the pictured side of the frame). Edges (wings) of jig plate are evened against the vertical edge of the original bracket.
Once the new piece is aligned on the original bolt hole “c-clamp” it to the frame, then run the original bolt through the original hole and snug it up. Once jig piece is aligned run a transfer punch through the jig piece to set the location of the new hole…
I didn’t take any pictures of the process, however burned out 4 (18mm diameter) plugs out of 1/8” plate. Clamped copper on top of ¼” plate to the inside of the mount and burned in the plugs. Then sanded down the outside, to what you see in the picture. (You can see the punch marks for the new holes in the below pictures.)
Using a ¼” transfer punch I lined up the production piece over the dimple, clamped it down with two very large c-clamps and tacked it into place alternating sides. On the outside radius arm mounts (they have shape) I tacked the inner locations, then used a large clamp to bend the plate down on the ends (wings) and tacked it.
Pieces were welded in segments, in order to let it cool a little between passes, top center, bottom center, plug, top left, bottom right, top right, and bottom left.
All 4 radius arm tabs were built in the same order, that is to say all 4 locations got punched for the new hole first, then all 4 locations had the original hole filled, etc… For myself it’s the only way to get consistent result pictured is the first side that I welded the other 3 look a bit more uniform…
Welder setup: 18v 200 IPM
I learned something new on the 80’s chassis side radius arm bolts, the only part of the bolt that is 18mm is the shoulder which would protrude into the bushing about 3/16”… (Meaning that the bushing is pinched into plate using only the head side of the bolt in shear…) I am entertaining the idea of making a radius arm (later on) with Duroflex bushings rather than Toyota proper bushings so I only opened the hole to 5/8” at least for now. There is no room for a proper 18mm bolt head at present, however something custom could be made (I try to avoid custom hardware like the plague). Its an odd custom bolt that Toyota made for the chassis side of the suspension...
It’s not an issue for now since the chassis side radius arm bushing is aftermarket (look at post 53 of this thread), before assembly I’ll make a new internal sleeve with the correct bolt ID (on final)…
