one cheaper idea, put some limit straps in and stop the full flex bind and pull apart all the stuff thats not meant to have crazy forces on them. just an idea
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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- #782
You know, that crossed my mind. I do run the longest variable rate springs available from Dobinson and shocks for a 6” lift so I do enjoy much more down travel than average.one cheaper idea, put some limit straps in and stop the full flex bind and pull apart all the stuff thats not meant to have crazy forces on them. just an idea
flex it out and measure eye bolt to eye bolt on the shock if you have that style and say limit it by a bunch. lol they say 1 inch of stretch for every 12 inch of limit strap but but limit it more. maybe another 2 inches seems excessive but you are doing buggy things not landcruiser things so to speak. hahah
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- #784
That sounds like half of the down travel I have. LOL I think I get 5” down out of the 12” shock. I suppose I could make up for loss of down travel by improving up travel.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Jeez man - if you don’t want to 3-link it, you dang near need to build some cro-moly tube radius arms & use some Johnny Joints!
At least the rear body mount - if you can bind a JJ, then more power to you & maybe 3-link is a real solution & not just a ‘because’ -mod.
At least the rear body mount - if you can bind a JJ, then more power to you & maybe 3-link is a real solution & not just a ‘because’ -mod.
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- #786
Or I could just simmer down….. HaHa I sold a trailer queen for something more moderate, streetable, and that covered a wide range of uses. An 80 checks that box well. Somehow mine is built and beaten far beyond my original intentions back in 2014 when I decided to buy an 80.
We’ve taken this particular 80 on two long multi-week road trips both of which incorporated some off road adventuring along the way and many shorter multi day trips on and off road. These vehicles are amazing.
I think what I need to do is beef up what I’ve got and keep pushing it to do what I want it to. It’s nice to be able to throw on the front sway bar to help control roof rack loads and head out across states and then wind up at a mountain lake deep in Montana and such. A 3 link would degrade this feature of 80 ownership I believe. I mean, if I’m gonna 3 link it you know that bigger tires are coming and that means body surgery and eventually tons, etc. The next thing I know I’m back to where I was prior to purchasing an 80. Rock crawling is fun but I really appreciate the versatility of what I now have.
I know that Steve is pretty well read on the 80s suspension
But in MHO it’s the axle side that binds the axle and Limits articulation.
And why I don’t run 12” travel shocks. They just don’t flex that much
Three links are all about packaging so in a factory rig you get what will fit.
Which means it’s all a compromise.
But in MHO it’s the axle side that binds the axle and Limits articulation.
And why I don’t run 12” travel shocks. They just don’t flex that much
Three links are all about packaging so in a factory rig you get what will fit.
Which means it’s all a compromise.
or get another 80 and turn this into a crawler..
Or fix what you have and be happy.
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- #790
I think I said this …….
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- #791
I’m not the first to break these leading arm brackets. In fact, they’ve been broken and posted to Mud before long springs and 6” shocks were available to us. However, I do agree that the combination of the longer springs, shocks, and narrower delta arms could possibly cause greater stress on the brackets as an effect of greater down travel.I know that Steve is pretty well read on the 80s suspension
But in MHO it’s the axle side that binds the axle and Limits articulation.
And why I don’t run 12” travel shocks. They just don’t flex that much
Three links are all about packaging so in a factory rig you get what will fit.
Which means it’s all a compromise.
There is the theory that the oem arms , being wider, will bind solidly against the bracket and cause damage to the structure of the brackets. Whereas I have never seen these Delta arms bind up directory against the brackets.
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- #792
Five years ago Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA installed the low range gear set into my transfer case but at that time the high range under drive and over drive gear sets were not a known product. That was about the time I went from 315’s to 37’s and noticed a bit slower acceleration and a more lethargic feel in general.
I run 4.88 ring and pinion gears and these 10% under drive gears for the transfer case seem to be popular and a better way to get some gearing back than re-gearing both diffs.
I contacted four shops to do the install and rates ranged from $135/hour to $195/hour and a range of 8 hours to 12 hours to do the job on top of the $505 for the gear set. I decided to do it myself.
Perhaps the most gratifying accomplishment in the end was the way I turned my old ATV Jack into a transfer case Jack. Using scraps of steel I built an HF2A specific cradle that would bolt to the platform of the ATV Jack and pick up one bolt on the transfer case to secure it to the Jack adapter. It worked very well.
I removed the case and disassembled it but then found out that my tiny Harbor Freight 12 ton press wouldn’t do the job of swapping out the two gears. I ended up taking the input and output shafts to LandCruisers Northwest in Portland to have this press work done. I called late on a Friday and Tony told me to bring my stuff in on Monday and they would do it while I wait. This they did while I chatted with the techs and admired the many rigs they had there.
This job is not difficult so much as it is heavy work, and done without a car lift from the horizontal position on the concrete floor it turns out to be good exercise.
It’s back together after being down 9 days. Not bad considering I had to go to work 5 of those 9 days. I took her for a test drive and I’d say I got about 10% difference based on my tachometer. She does get off and rolling with a bit less input from my foot pretty much like when I ran 315’s. It not a profoundly life altering improvement but it is noticeable. 2700 rpm’s in OD at 70 as indicated on the speedometer. I’ll have to use GPS to check actual speed another day.
I’m glad I did the labor myself because I saved a sizable chunk of change which will go toward diesel and gas when I go to the Hammers with @Broski , @mustcamp , and @Noahrob, and ???? next month.
The main thing here that I want to pass on is the condition of the wire loom/sheathing on the harness that passes over top of the transmission and back the the transfer case. Mine was cooked to a crisp, falling apart and doing basically nothing to protect the wires. Something to think about looking into if you are reading this.
I run 4.88 ring and pinion gears and these 10% under drive gears for the transfer case seem to be popular and a better way to get some gearing back than re-gearing both diffs.
I contacted four shops to do the install and rates ranged from $135/hour to $195/hour and a range of 8 hours to 12 hours to do the job on top of the $505 for the gear set. I decided to do it myself.
Perhaps the most gratifying accomplishment in the end was the way I turned my old ATV Jack into a transfer case Jack. Using scraps of steel I built an HF2A specific cradle that would bolt to the platform of the ATV Jack and pick up one bolt on the transfer case to secure it to the Jack adapter. It worked very well.
I removed the case and disassembled it but then found out that my tiny Harbor Freight 12 ton press wouldn’t do the job of swapping out the two gears. I ended up taking the input and output shafts to LandCruisers Northwest in Portland to have this press work done. I called late on a Friday and Tony told me to bring my stuff in on Monday and they would do it while I wait. This they did while I chatted with the techs and admired the many rigs they had there.
This job is not difficult so much as it is heavy work, and done without a car lift from the horizontal position on the concrete floor it turns out to be good exercise.
It’s back together after being down 9 days. Not bad considering I had to go to work 5 of those 9 days. I took her for a test drive and I’d say I got about 10% difference based on my tachometer. She does get off and rolling with a bit less input from my foot pretty much like when I ran 315’s. It not a profoundly life altering improvement but it is noticeable. 2700 rpm’s in OD at 70 as indicated on the speedometer. I’ll have to use GPS to check actual speed another day.
I’m glad I did the labor myself because I saved a sizable chunk of change which will go toward diesel and gas when I go to the Hammers with @Broski , @mustcamp , and @Noahrob, and ???? next month.
The main thing here that I want to pass on is the condition of the wire loom/sheathing on the harness that passes over top of the transmission and back the the transfer case. Mine was cooked to a crisp, falling apart and doing basically nothing to protect the wires. Something to think about looking into if you are reading this.
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- #793
Assembling
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- #794
Photos showing exposed wires due to the protective sleeve being rotted off. I used that wire sleeve/ protector product that’s appears to be knit and can expand. It costs three times what the old split plastic loom costs but it ls a better product.
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- #796
I just wanted to get back some of the ole 1fz poop so installed the high range 1:1 under drive gear set. That’s all…….I’d wondered where you been……pic prove your location is “under the 80”
— did this all happen because of last Utah run, or was this just long-term torque/wear behind the glowplugs mill?
- Thread starter
- #797
Good morning Land Cruiser men and women. Back in November I was fortunate enough to join @Broski and @mustcamp and a few others down south at Johnson Valley for some epic desert rock crawling.
Not so fortunately, I managed to tear up my front ring and pinion during the first hour of the first of four days there. I’m still awaiting a couple tools and parts but today I’ll remove the front axle housing for weld on up grades including a truss and some gussets. I’ve beaten this axle silly and I don’t think it’s bent. Hoping I’m not spending time on a junk housing.
As I wait for a Japanese made dial indicator with magnetic base (it was cheaper than Sterrett and not made in China) my patients ran short. I happen to be well aquatinted with the NWTI owner here local to me so I paid him a visit at his shop and he loaned me his dial indicator. I wanted to check the back lash prior to tear down. I don’t know if it’s going to be an accurate measurement because the pinion is rather roughed up.
In 2016 I did a knuckle job. I will be doing the knuckle job more often as a discovered rust in the area of the trunnion bearings.
And an FJ60 I saw in a parking lot. So iconic!
Not so fortunately, I managed to tear up my front ring and pinion during the first hour of the first of four days there. I’m still awaiting a couple tools and parts but today I’ll remove the front axle housing for weld on up grades including a truss and some gussets. I’ve beaten this axle silly and I don’t think it’s bent. Hoping I’m not spending time on a junk housing.
As I wait for a Japanese made dial indicator with magnetic base (it was cheaper than Sterrett and not made in China) my patients ran short. I happen to be well aquatinted with the NWTI owner here local to me so I paid him a visit at his shop and he loaned me his dial indicator. I wanted to check the back lash prior to tear down. I don’t know if it’s going to be an accurate measurement because the pinion is rather roughed up.
In 2016 I did a knuckle job. I will be doing the knuckle job more often as a discovered rust in the area of the trunnion bearings.
And an FJ60 I saw in a parking lot. So iconic!
- Thread starter
- #798
I’m not A fan of the Storm dial indicator apparatus. The flexible arm locks tightly but sends the indicator askew when the lock is engaged. What it shows it .025-.030 back lash. Way too much but can this dimension be counted on considering the condition of gears? These diffs were built by Justdifferntials in 2010 and purchased by the dude that I bought the green machine from back in 2014. Not to bash JD just adding info here. 8 years of stupid driving does say something for their product.
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based on the picture you texted me with the missing ring gear teeth and the pinion marks on the carrier I would not put too much stock in your current backlash numbers.
Like you said even handling 8 years of your driving is impressive. lol
Like you said even handling 8 years of your driving is impressive. lol
I like to put the Jack stands just behind the frame control arm mounts. This allows more freedom of movement with your floor jack and room for you to work around the fount of the axle.
Also if you haven't already loosen the rear control arm bolts to take the tension off the rubber bushings
JMHO 
