Looks good!
I think the valvle cover needs a fresh 22RE sticker.
I think the valvle cover needs a fresh 22RE sticker.
rebuild or replace 22re?: specs inside
- Thread starter bryan89
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
KLF,
you are the man.
yeah, i shortly after found out about the cold start injector gasket, but I would have had no idea on the oil cap gasket. good call.
fj,
i agree on the 22re sticker. i actually just put one on before i found out i needed a rebuild. so i taped over it with blue painters tape before painting. so if its in good shape when i peel the tape off ill leave it. but im saving it till last. its like the final icing on the rebuild.
what about comments on exhaust manifold paint? i really like the aluminum, but now i am thinking it will show dirt/grease really easy. so maybe i might have to buy a can of black. idk. opinions?
you are the man.
yeah, i shortly after found out about the cold start injector gasket, but I would have had no idea on the oil cap gasket. good call.
fj,
i agree on the 22re sticker. i actually just put one on before i found out i needed a rebuild. so i taped over it with blue painters tape before painting. so if its in good shape when i peel the tape off ill leave it. but im saving it till last. its like the final icing on the rebuild.
what about comments on exhaust manifold paint? i really like the aluminum, but now i am thinking it will show dirt/grease really easy. so maybe i might have to buy a can of black. idk. opinions?
Black will show dirt/mud. Might as well paint the whole thing a dirt/grease camoflage.
I vote black.
You don't know how long I started at one of those gaskets a few years ago, searched and searched, couldn't figure it out. If you look at the picture on the EPC, it suddenly pops out at you. Good luck getting the old one out, it gets pretty glued in there with age and heat.
For optimal cool-ness, get yourself a new old-school TEQ fill cap. (see avatar) You can still get them new from Toyota.
My experience with painting exhaust manifolds/headers: no matter what you use it will blister and peel off eventually.
For optimal cool-ness, get yourself a new old-school TEQ fill cap. (see avatar) You can still get them new from Toyota.
My experience with painting exhaust manifolds/headers: no matter what you use it will blister and peel off eventually.
- Thread starter
- #85
klf,
do you have a part number for said oil fill cap? looks pretty snazzy.
you guys are both right. black is going to show oil grease dirt anyways i guess. and it probably will peel off eventually, but i want to get at least one good pic of the engine bay before i screw it all up. lol.
do you have a part number for said oil fill cap? looks pretty snazzy.
you guys are both right. black is going to show oil grease dirt anyways i guess. and it probably will peel off eventually, but i want to get at least one good pic of the engine bay before i screw it all up. lol.
I probably should have done a search, but....
Is TDC set at 0 and then adjusted to 5 by jumping across the diagnostic terminals, or is it set at 5 to begin with?
Is TDC set at 0 and then adjusted to 5 by jumping across the diagnostic terminals, or is it set at 5 to begin with?
- Thread starter
- #88
It is my impression that you set top dead center at zero. that is what i got from the fsm at least. it tells you to turn the crank until the 0 mark on the oil pump lines up with the tick on the crank pulley. then you put your timing chain bright link on both timing gear indicators. and bolt it all up.
I think the shorting of the terminals just electronically forces the engine into an idle state, where you set the engine timing based off that zero marking.
then when you disconnect the terminals it advances about 5 degrees because the engine idle increases.
makes sense to me, but i could be wrong. someone will surely correct me if i am wrong though.
- Thread starter
- #89
the weekend of problems
so this weekend was a PITA.
to start off, i didnt do much on saturday with the engine cause it was supposed to be nasty out according to my brillliant local weatherman. so I made other plans. well needless to say, after about 10 min of rain saturday morning it was clear all day. great.
So Sunday, I thought i would get after it. One thing I still had to do was bolt up the exhaust manifold. As I mentioned earlier, it was a little warped, but after much persuasion from my father, he convinced me to just bolt it up the way it was. in his defense the gasket was thicker than the gap created by the warpage. So against my better judgement i bolted it up. Torqued in an outward spiral pattern to 33 ft - lbs. down to the last bolt..this is looking good i thought. then ....pop
I thought i pulled the threads out of my brand new head. apparently after disassembly, my stud pulled apart. Upon examining the bolt failure, I did not notice any tensile necking, so it made me believe that the stud was cracked to begin with.. The gasket looked okay and i think i can reuse it. but i decided that i would resurface the exhaust manifold just to be safe. Well, about 1-2 hours later and .067" off with the fly cutter. I was done.
So now i just need a stud and i should be back in business. or i could use a bolt for that hole, but that is kinda...
. in my opinion.
Oh but the fun does not stop there. While cleaning up what was left of the pile of parts for my engine, I discovered that I forgot to install the little locator pins in the head bolt holes that locate the valve train guides. SWEET.
. Now my head gasket is torqued down and after checking, the valve train could be centered better in the holes.
so my question is, what do you guys think the probability of getting all of the head bolts out, puttin the inserts in, and bolting it back down with the same head gasket is? I know its already torqued, but I wouldnt be moving the head at all, and it hasn't been run yet. Additionally, some manufactures, like my nissan, require you to torque, loosen, and re torque the head gasket. or am i screwed and need a new one?
phew, sorry for the word vomit.
so this weekend was a PITA.
to start off, i didnt do much on saturday with the engine cause it was supposed to be nasty out according to my brillliant local weatherman. so I made other plans. well needless to say, after about 10 min of rain saturday morning it was clear all day. great.
So Sunday, I thought i would get after it. One thing I still had to do was bolt up the exhaust manifold. As I mentioned earlier, it was a little warped, but after much persuasion from my father, he convinced me to just bolt it up the way it was. in his defense the gasket was thicker than the gap created by the warpage. So against my better judgement i bolted it up. Torqued in an outward spiral pattern to 33 ft - lbs. down to the last bolt..this is looking good i thought. then ....pop
I thought i pulled the threads out of my brand new head. apparently after disassembly, my stud pulled apart. Upon examining the bolt failure, I did not notice any tensile necking, so it made me believe that the stud was cracked to begin with.. The gasket looked okay and i think i can reuse it. but i decided that i would resurface the exhaust manifold just to be safe. Well, about 1-2 hours later and .067" off with the fly cutter. I was done.
So now i just need a stud and i should be back in business. or i could use a bolt for that hole, but that is kinda...
. in my opinion.Oh but the fun does not stop there. While cleaning up what was left of the pile of parts for my engine, I discovered that I forgot to install the little locator pins in the head bolt holes that locate the valve train guides. SWEET.
. Now my head gasket is torqued down and after checking, the valve train could be centered better in the holes.so my question is, what do you guys think the probability of getting all of the head bolts out, puttin the inserts in, and bolting it back down with the same head gasket is? I know its already torqued, but I wouldnt be moving the head at all, and it hasn't been run yet. Additionally, some manufactures, like my nissan, require you to torque, loosen, and re torque the head gasket. or am i screwed and need a new one?
phew, sorry for the word vomit.
- Thread starter
- #90
btw -fjfodee,
to follow up your question about timing, I did notice in the the ignition section of the fsm, when putting the distributor in, it tells you to turn the crank back to 5* from TDC before installing it. But, that was after having set the timing chain up at 0*. hth.
to follow up your question about timing, I did notice in the the ignition section of the fsm, when putting the distributor in, it tells you to turn the crank back to 5* from TDC before installing it. But, that was after having set the timing chain up at 0*. hth.
I had to do this last weekend when I forgot to set the cam at TDC, and it was binding on the rockers. I dont see it being a problem. You have to remove the head bolts to change camshafts on an assembled engine.
That's what I was thinking. For some reason this makes no sense to me.
- Thread starter
- #92
cool...ing
well,
i went ahead an ordered a new radiator from toyota. mainly because mine is old and has been repaired at least once that I know of. On top of that, all of the local radiator replacement shops have some crappy cored junk that is not as big as the OEM one or is made from lesser quality material.
But geeeesh is toyota proud of their radiator. even with a discount i still paid 460 bucks for a radiator with cap.
But while im on the subject of cooling
, what do you guys run for coolant? I know toyota has that red stuff, but the manual calls for just good old ethylene glycol. Would it be bad to run the regular green stuff?
Here is why: 1. its got to be cheaper. 2. its more readily available. say im driving cross country (which i plan on doing) and i need to add radiator fluid. Can I only add the red toyota crap if its in there? and where am i going to find that in the middle of the desert / lonsesome highway?
If there are no bad effects, I think the regularly available green stuff is the way to go. am i mistaken?
well,
i went ahead an ordered a new radiator from toyota. mainly because mine is old and has been repaired at least once that I know of. On top of that, all of the local radiator replacement shops have some crappy cored junk that is not as big as the OEM one or is made from lesser quality material.
But geeeesh is toyota proud of their radiator. even with a discount i still paid 460 bucks for a radiator with cap.
But while im on the subject of cooling
, what do you guys run for coolant? I know toyota has that red stuff, but the manual calls for just good old ethylene glycol. Would it be bad to run the regular green stuff?Here is why: 1. its got to be cheaper. 2. its more readily available. say im driving cross country (which i plan on doing) and i need to add radiator fluid. Can I only add the red toyota crap if its in there? and where am i going to find that in the middle of the desert / lonsesome highway?
If there are no bad effects, I think the regularly available green stuff is the way to go. am i mistaken?
- Thread starter
- #93
so last night i took the valve train out. put the guide studs in, and re torqued the head. didn't seem to have any hickups so only time will tell if its screwed up or not. I also torqued it to 60 ft lbs instead of the fsm 58. Figured it might could use a little extra cause of the compressed gasket.
also went ahead and bolted up my fuel rail and injectors and fuel filter.
Bolted up my newly machined exhaust manifold, but didnt torque it down because I am waiting on my stud to get here from toyota, which should be today. ( Seems like they have to order everything for my truck. guess 25 year old toyotas arent so popular around here.)
is the jury still out on the antifreeze proposal or what?
also went ahead and bolted up my fuel rail and injectors and fuel filter.
Bolted up my newly machined exhaust manifold, but didnt torque it down because I am waiting on my stud to get here from toyota, which should be today. ( Seems like they have to order everything for my truck. guess 25 year old toyotas arent so popular around here.)
is the jury still out on the antifreeze proposal or what?
I use green antifreeze. IIRC that's all that was available until about 1996 when GM started using Dexcool. If the green is not correct, I bet there are millions of Toyotas that have been running it for years.
Have you bolted the exhaust pipe to the manifold yet? If not, leave the manifold loose until you do. Seems like I always forget that step.
Have you bolted the exhaust pipe to the manifold yet? If not, leave the manifold loose until you do. Seems like I always forget that step.
But geeeesh is toyota proud of their radiator. even with a discount i still paid 460 bucks for a radiator with cap.
But while im on the subject of cooling
Here is why: 1. its got to be cheaper. 2. its more readily available. say im driving cross country (which i plan on doing) and i need to add radiator fluid. Can I only add the red toyota crap if its in there? and where am i going to find that in the middle of the desert / lonsesome highway?
If there are no bad effects, I think the regularly available green stuff is the way to go. am i mistaken?
You've done a beautiful job on this engine but I think running green stuff might be a gamble.
When I replaced my radiator, 2 gallons of Toyota red were $36, whereas 3 gallons of Zerex Asian were $33. For a couple more bucks....
Toyota Red is mixable with Toyota pink:
http://www.toyotapart.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf
Not bad info from yotatech:
Mixing regular coolant with Toyota 'Red" coolant - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums
- Thread starter
- #96
wow, ridge runner,
that was some good info. that guy on yotatech must be a chemist or something.
anyways, if you read the whole way through, it appears they have discontinued the toyota red. i need to call and check with my dealer. but this may be a problem.
that was some good info. that guy on yotatech must be a chemist or something.
anyways, if you read the whole way through, it appears they have discontinued the toyota red. i need to call and check with my dealer. but this may be a problem.
- Thread starter
- #97
btw,
just as a sanity check, the fsm in the cooling section calls for a total capacity of 8.9 US quarts (which is about 2.25 gallons). I assume that is mixed volume right?
So technically i would need a little more than 1 gallon of toyota red (if i can get it) and the rest distilled water correct? assuming i run 50/50 mix
just as a sanity check, the fsm in the cooling section calls for a total capacity of 8.9 US quarts (which is about 2.25 gallons). I assume that is mixed volume right?
So technically i would need a little more than 1 gallon of toyota red (if i can get it) and the rest distilled water correct? assuming i run 50/50 mix
I just finished my timing chain/ rad last month. As of last month, Toyota still produced Red.
Your math is correct.
When flushing I'll do a final flush a couple times with just distilled water, draining as well as possible after each. This is to dilute the plain water left in the system from the initial flushing. Then I put in 1.25 gallons undiluted antifreeze and top off with up to 1 gallon distilled water. If I needed to put more I'd use a 60%/40% mix. Toyota says 50% to 70% anti-freeze in the solution, no less, no more. I then fill the overflow tank with a 60% antifreeze / 40% distilled water solution.
I've been using old style green antifreeze as I have so many other engines that use it. It has been getting harder and harder to find.
When mixing anti-freeze for topping off vehicles I use a 5 gallon jug with spigot and put in 3 gallons antifreeze, and two of distilled water. I then pour it back into the anti-freeze jugs as needed and label them 60A/40W. The 5 gallon jug is labeled poison on all sides and kept where kids can't get at it.
- Thread starter
- #100
good info bogo.
i went and got my parts and toyota still has the red. I dont know what they were talking about in that thread link above.
anyways, it was $25 per gallon. I got two.
i did check out the label on the back and it says it meets ASTM-D 3306 and ASTM-D 4340 standards. So i did a quick check and NEITHER prestone yellow or Zerex meet the 4340 standard. I dont know what it outlines in particular, but I can't seem to find anyone that meets it besides toyota so far. so that may be why people have so much trouble with the other stuff.
i went and got my parts and toyota still has the red. I dont know what they were talking about in that thread link above.
anyways, it was $25 per gallon. I got two.
i did check out the label on the back and it says it meets ASTM-D 3306 and ASTM-D 4340 standards. So i did a quick check and NEITHER prestone yellow or Zerex meet the 4340 standard. I dont know what it outlines in particular, but I can't seem to find anyone that meets it besides toyota so far. so that may be why people have so much trouble with the other stuff.