rebuild or replace 22re?: specs inside

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

pluton,
that is not what i want to hear. lol.
has anyone else had problems with ATK??
If i decide to go with a new/remanufactured motor who would you guys reccommend?
I know LC engineering has all new toyota parts or better, but their basic pro street long block is $4200. are you telling me i have to spend that to get a reliable motor?

SO no jasper, no ATK, none of those fly by night reman places....who is left?
 
any local shops you trust?
I'd rather pay Larry Kitahara, or Gary Kardum here in my area for a rebuild than shell out online for a purchase.
 
chuck,
i dont know. i have always done my own engine work. i just dont want to spend the time on this project. its a daily driver. not a wheeler or anything thats going to see 6000 rpm clutch drops or anything.

although, 2 of my personal friends in the area,( one services lexus and toyota and one builds performance motors for a living), who i both have great resepct for, say dont waste your time. both recommend something with a warranty.
 
I promise you that anybody issuing a warranty will try to weasel out of it. That's business.
Besides, what good's a warranty if they rebuilder's on the other side of the country? It's unlikely that you'd be boxing a long block up and shipping it off if they built it wrong.
Do it local; doubtless there's a handful of Toyota-only shops in your are run by folks who know what to do, and are within driving distance if you need the help.

Here are the links to the SC chapters of the TLCA, post up that you're looking for a shop close by that they recommend, and doubtless they've got a member who owns one.
SC- Upstate Cruisers - LowCountry Chapter
SC- Upstate Cruisers

Good luck!
 
chuck,
i actually already contacted the local cruiser club, and their local resident toyota god. He is the one that recommended not rebuilding it.

But, never the less, I have decided to go ahead and pull the motor and at least take it apart and see what i am dealing with. if its not too worn and doesnt require a lot of maching i may just do it myself.

i just have to make space in the garage.....:doh:

if the cost of doing it myself is going to be more than the ATK motor, I am gonna go with that most likely.
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to sell Napa parts ( although I do own a Napa store) but they offer ATK engines also. Price on a long block is 1854.00 plus a 350.00 core. Comes with a 3 yr unlimited mileage warranty.

That being said I do not sell engines thru my business due to the B.S. that comes with the average shade tree guy installing an engine. From what I understand though, Napa does not actually warranty the engine and or parts associated with it. It is done through ATK with a local shop that has ASE certified mechanics. If the technician says the engine has failed due to a manufacturing defect, then ATK will take care of the problem.

I don't know if this link will work, but this is the warranty info.
http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/1131298.pdf
 
Makes sense, they'd want a professional to make the call on manufacturing issues instead of some know-nothing dropping his block on the floor and calling it in as a cracked block from the factory.

As for NAPA, I got no problems with them, I like their service, and you generally get what you pay for. They keep a nice stock of electrical parts (my area of preference) and in some rare cases their brand gear is better than OEM.
 
yeah i saw the 1800 or so reman motor, but ATK also offers a "high(er) performance" motor. it makes 125 hp as opposed to the 105-110 stock motor. that is the one i was looking at cause it had a little better internals. ..also no core

as of now, i got the motor out this weekend and started tearing it apart. MAN, there is a lot of crap on this motor. I must have used a whole bag of ziplocs to label everything i took off.
Everything is overkill too. the fuel filter is held on to a bracket with two bolts that is held on to the block with 4 bolts. that is overkill! its just a fuel filter. :meh: oh well, just goes to show the durability / strength of these things i guess.

anywyas, hopefully i'll get the head off tonight so i can start taking some measrurements.
 
ridgerunner,
Thanks for the info. Lots of good information there. I emailed Ted to see what he thinks about my situation. if he can help me source good parts i might just do this myself.
 
ridgerunner said:
I found this through some links somewhere here:

4x4Wire's TrailTalk Forums: 22R/RE: Simple power tips

Worth looking into as engbldr claims upwards of 140hp for about $1500 worth of work/parts if you can find a decent place in your area.
Click to expand...

bryan89 said:
ridgerunner,
Thanks for the info. Lots of good information there. I emailed Ted to see what he thinks about my situation. if he can help me source good parts i might just do this myself.
Click to expand...

Ted sells good parts. They are the parts him and his son are willing to use in their own rebuilds. If you read up on 22RE rebuilds at the 4x4wire site you can figure out most of what he figures is good to do, and what parts to use.
 
well, here is a quick update.
called Ted at engine builder back. after talking to him about the condition of my head and options for getting it back up to snuff, for about the same money i went ahead and ordered his pro street head complete with a new casting, new valves, new springs, new guides, new seals, and a new 261 cam shaft. I also picked up a set of head bolts. All said and done, with shipping to charleston SC, was 468 even i think. Pretty good I think. So, I guess I am into rebuilding this thing officially.

He also cautioned me to go ahead and replace all of the adjuster nuts and bolts for the valves as they are the #1 cause of valve noise in the engine, which if you think about it makes perfect sense. as they start to wear they get some sort of a concave or convex dome shape to them. so when you put your feeler gauge in there, which is flat, you would never get the added slop out because of the the rounded shape. so your valves will always rattle. so at 5-6 bucks at toyota i am going to go ahead and replace all of them (stems and nuts) when the head gets here.

as far as rockers, he seemed to elude to the fact that i did not need to replace them unless they were worn with flat spots or scars. On the other hand, I have heard from several people that if you put a new cam in (mild to wild) you should replace the rockers.

What do you guys think?
 
bryan89 said:
well, here is a quick update.
called Ted at engine builder back. after talking to him about the condition of my head and options for getting it back up to snuff, for about the same money i went ahead and ordered his pro street head complete with a new casting, new valves, new springs, new guides, new seals, and a new 261 cam shaft. I also picked up a set of head bolts. All said and done, with shipping to charleston SC, was 468 even i think. Pretty good I think. So, I guess I am into rebuilding this thing officially.

He also cautioned me to go ahead and replace all of the adjuster nuts and bolts for the valves as they are the #1 cause of valve noise in the engine, which if you think about it makes perfect sense. as they start to wear they get some sort of a concave or convex dome shape to them. so when you put your feeler gauge in there, which is flat, you would never get the added slop out because of the the rounded shape. so your valves will always rattle. so at 5-6 bucks at toyota i am going to go ahead and replace all of them (stems and nuts) when the head gets here.

as far as rockers, he seemed to elude to the fact that i did not need to replace them unless they were worn with flat spots or scars. On the other hand, I have heard from several people that if you put a new cam in (mild to wild) you should replace the rockers.

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

Sounds like the right track! What are you going to do for the bottom end?
 
bryan89 said:
as far as rockers, he seemed to elude to the fact that i did not need to replace them unless they were worn with flat spots or scars. On the other hand, I have heard from several people that if you put a new cam in (mild to wild) you should replace the rockers.

What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

I've always understood that they should be replaced. However, I've had 2 engines that have had the old rockers on top of mild cams and never had a problem. Maybe I'm just lucky?
 
ridgerunner,
i still have to check the cylinder bore on the block. waiting on a borrowed bore gauge for that. i checked the deck and my warpage is less than .002" across the whole surface, so thats good. since that is good, i would bet that it does not need line boring, but i will double check as well. so basically, waiting on tools to see what the bottom end will entail. in the meantime i have been researching local machine shops. assuming the worst (clean block, magnaflux, deck block, line bore and cylinder bore) going to be around 500 bucks. obviously if i dont need boring i wont.

fjfode,
that makes me feel a little better. i may inspect mine and if more than half are no good according to fsm, i may as well replace them all. word on the street is that they are about 36 bucks a piece from toyota though! and whole set would cost 288 ish. ouch.
 
..updates?
yeah i got some updates....
took the disassembled block to the machine shop.
The crank looked to be good as far as wear. just needed a good polishing. rods will be resized.
block needs boring due to cylinder taper. .010" would probaly clean it up, but just to be safe i opted for .020" over bore.
original toyota Timing cover looks good inside. no chain wear.
however, the oil pump rotation surface is a little worn. probably from my dry start issue. so i did some measuring. i think i can machine .001 to .002" off the oil pump bearing surface on the front of the timing cover to clean it up and still bolt everything up right.

machinist recommended decking the block regardless of condition because they are notorious for pitting. although mine looked really straight. (less than .002" warpage). so it wont take much. will machine block with timing cover bolted on so the head gasket will sit right nicely.

got a new head from engnbldr with 261 cam. and head bolts. for $468 shipped.

sent my 5 injectors to witch hunter to be rebuilt and flow matched for $105 shipped.

then spent $995.12 on the following parts:

from LC engineering:
hyper eutectic piston set (.020" over) with total seal ring upgrade
chromolly rocker shafts with increased oiling passages (my oem ones were worn beyond fsm limit)
brass freeze plugs
pro street oil pump
timing set with metal backed guides

from Toyota parts zone.com: (OEM PARTS)
complete engine gasket set
water pump
8 valve lash adjuster bolts and nuts
8 rocker springs
4 upper rod bushings
all new spark plug wires and mounts (dont trust aftermarket ones)
crank bolt (mine was chewed up by someone without impact gun)

so far...totaling (468+105+995.12)= $1568.
Machinist quoted me $880 for all the block work and assembly.
have to add crank main bearings, thrust bearings, and rod bearings but i let the machine shop get them cause they could get them cheaper than anywhere i could find. (about $70 for all clevite 77).

so that all adds up to $2518.12.
so after i get all the crap that i forgot (paint and fluids etc...)and get nickeled and dimed to death i should come out around $2750-$2800 area.

PHEW.......{<wipe sweat>}
but thats where i am right now.
sorry for the long winded post.
 
so as i suspected,
it is going to cost me just as much than buying one remaned already.

BUT, on the other hand for about the same money I know exactly what I am getting. and the condition of everything will be better.
for example even LC engineering could not supply me with a .010" over bore rebuilt motor. they said .020" would be stretch and that .030" would be more reasonable.

additionally, my timing cover, water pump, and top end will all new parts. all toyota or equivalent. and its what I say is equivalent. Not what some salesman jack-ars on the phone says is equivalent who really has no idea.

Finally, as someone else mentioned (combatchuck i think), if something goes wrong, my machinist is here and if its his fault he will own up to it.
 
It does add up doesn't it. That actually makes me feel a bit better about spending $3500 for my DOA Racing long block.

Good luck getting it finished up. Sounds like you'll have a very good engine when you're done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom