rebuild or replace 22re?: specs inside

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On the throw out bearing, I"m 99% sure the 2 styles are compatible, I ordered a clutch from marlin for my 89, and it came with the replaceable bearing, but once I opened up the clutch I found the one piece bearing in there... so I went and stole the bearing "holder" out of my dads 84 pickup, put the new bearing on it, and it's been good ever since...

That engine is too clean.... you need to let me borrow it.... :D
 
2nd gen,
what do you mean replaceable?
in marlin's kit did it have the bearing that presses onto the little cast iron hub, but you used the one that has the hub built into the bearing? the one with the large wire clip?

thats what i am running now, but the one with the two piece design is what came out of the truck originally.

marlin still hasnt got back to me. (i called them with the dilema). i am going to call again today, but i might have to buy their clutch kit as they wont sell me just the disk. so the 100 bucks i spent on the toyota pressure plate is waste.
 
ahh
that makes sense. i talked to toyota and they said the throw out bearing change from the two piece to the one piece was made in 8/88. so since my truck was built in 11/87 it had the two piece and yours had the one piece since its an 89.

so you are using the old two piece style with no issue. so this situation is at least backwards compatabile. meaning the old stuff works with the new trucks. but i wonder if mine would work since its the other way.
i dont see why not unless the pressure plates are different.

2nd gen, could you do me a favor when you get a chance? go to toyotapartszone.com and enter your vin and see if it gives you the same part number for the pressure plate as it did for me. if it does then there would be no difference in pressure plates for the old trucks and newer ones. then that way we could say without a doubt that either throw out bearing would work.
then my problem must lie somewhere in the pressure plate / clutch disc combination.

210-35130-84 is the revised part for me. it replaces 210-24020.
 
ok, so am pretty sure this is what happened.
the motor i just rebuilt is not the original motor from the truck. the po said he got it from an older truck with lesser miles.

well, turns out there are two flywheels for the 22re depending on what year truck you have. the older 85-86 trucks have the 9 5/16 fly wheel and the newer ones have the 8 7/8.

according to my vin number toyota gave me the pressure plate for a 8 7/8" flywheel. not their fault.

my motor was older, so I am assuming that it has the 9 5/16. that is why it is not working.

so i ordered the whole shabang from marlin. flywheel, pressure plate and clutch (1200lb) so this will definitely fix the problem.

so now i am out a pilot bearing, release bearing, and pressure plate since they wont break their kits. maybe i can sell the old stuff. i mean it literally has 6 miles on it.
 
PNC Description Part No. Production
Date Model Req Qty. Retail
Price Your
Price Qty.
Cart
31126 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
**126-20060 1983.08-1989.03 RN5#, 6#, 7#, VZN6#.. MTM 1
$15.38

$12.06
*
31210 COVER ASSY, CLUTCH
Replaced by: **210-35110-84 **210-35110 1988.08-1989.03 RN61.. W 1
$83.23

$70.55
*
31230 BEARING ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
Replaced by: **230-35071 **230-35070 1988.08-1989.03 RN61 1
$61.53

$45.83
*
31232 CLIP OR SPRING, RELEASE BEARING HUB
Replaced by: **232-35040 **232-35020 1988.08-1989.03 RN61, VZN61 1
$4.46

$3.50
*
Manufacture notes: NSK BEARING
31232 CLIP OR SPRING, RELEASE BEARING HUB
**232-35030 1988.08-1989.03 RN61, VZN61 1
$4.46

$3.50
*
Manufacture notes: KOYO BEARING
31236 BALL, RELEASE FORK
**236-30060 1983.08-1989.03 LN5#, 6#, RN5#, 6#, 7#.. MTM 1
$12.72

$9.99
*
31240 FORK ASSY, CLUTCH RELEASE
**204-20071 1985.11-1989.03 RN5#, 6#, 7#.. MTM.. (CBR, EFI) 1
$32.84

$24.46
*
31250 DISC ASSY, CLUTCH
Replaced by: **250-14171-84 **250-35180 1988.01-1989.03 RN5#, 6#, 7#.. MTM.. (CBR, EFI) 1
$93.29

$76.79
*
33311W BEARING (FOR INPUT SHAFT)
Replaced by: **363-12002-77 **363-12002 1983.08-1989.03 LN5#, 6#, RN5#, 6#, 7#, VZN6#.. MTM 1
$8.60

$6.75
*
That's what came up for me. My 4Runner was built Jan of '89. No I have not had any issues with using the older 2 part bearing... I hope that helps! :D
 
2nd gen,
thanks for the info.

Well, i got my new 8 7/8" flywheel, pressure plate, 1200 lb clutch, pilot and throw out bearing from marlin crawler last week.

saturday I dropped the transmission. (only took about 2 hours this time)
pulled all my stuff out and inspected it. everything i had was exactly the same as marlins kit, except the clutch disk. so i put it all back together with the new parts.

The clutch is much better this time than before. it engages about half way up the pedal throw instead of right at the top. but i still think it could be better. or maybe i am just used to my honda where the clutch engages right off the floor.

Where does you guys engage? With my clutch pedal set to the factory 6.12 inches from the floor, using a tape measure i got about 4 inches is where it engages. so about 2/3 the way up.

is something still wrong or does it correspond with what you guys have? the only thing left is the master and slave cylinder, but nothing is leaking anywhere and there is no air in the fluid, so how could it be bad?
 
drove the truck around the island today. everything shifts well and it seems to pull strong.
i also noticed that at idle, the truck will creep forward in first gear indefinitely by itself without giving any gas. it wont stall out. so that makes me confident.

but the only thing i dont like is the clutch engagement is halfway up the damn pedal throw!! maybe its all in my head. its been so long since i had this thing all together that i sadly dont remember how it felt.

on one hand, it is a Japanese economy based truck. so maybe that is the best it gets. but i can imagine trying to crawl with this truck. i feel like you would be rolling backwards down the trail all day waiting for the clutch to engage. lol

where does yall's engage at?
 
yeah, but that adjustment directly effects the pedal height too.
so in effect, to get the pedal engagement two inches off the floor, it would have to be two inches below where it is now, right?

I don't know which is more annoying, the pedal engagement where it is, or having one pedal two inches lower than the rest.

plus, right now its set up to what the book says for pedal height. 6.12 inches from the floor (without carpet).
 
well, i dicked around with it a little this afternoon. i pulled the pin out of the master cylinder rod where it is held onto the clutch pedal. and it seemed to come out further, indicating that the clutch master cylinder was not disengaging all the way. so i backed everything out so i could put the pin in without any stress on the master cylinder rod.

it engages much better now. its to the point where I could live with this thing comfortably. so that makes me feel better.

Next on the list is to try and readjust the valve lash sometime this week. the back two are a little too noisy for my taste. I know I am a self admitted perfectionist, but I think it can be quieter.

Then, ON TO THE NEXT MOD / REPAIR!!!!:clap::steer::bounce:
 
Bryan,
You are the man. I followed the entire post as I am getting ready to do the same ordeal with a munched timing chain. I am in Savannah. Who did you use for machining in chas? I am in Chas about every week during the fall and winter.
Brent
 
shooter,
i used a machine shop in north charleston called "ok auto machine shop". its on carolyn street i believe. (kind of in the ghetto)

anyways, there is an old timer there, by the name of Bill Fisk. He has been rebuilding engines longer than I have been alive. He is very very skilled when it comes to domestic racing motors. as far as these old imports, i felt like he could get it together reliably, but a little more experience could have been utilized.

They did an "ok" job in my opinion. But I am a perfectionist. I was watching over every operation they did. If you know exactly what you want, like down to dimensions, then they can do it no problem.

but in my opinion, they wanted to build it a little loose for my tastes. Im sure it would have run fine, but I wanted a TIGHT motor. So I ended up doing a lot of research and measuring to get it right.

If you use them or not
make sure to have the top of the block surfaced as necessary
if they do surface the block, do it with the new timing cover on, so you get a nice flat surface all the way across.
I would also get them to check the crank journals for straightness. and line bore as necessary. (if the deck is crooked, i would almost garuntee the thing needs some kind of line bore, even if its just a light polish to true up)

if you bore it, make sure that your head gasket is sized appropriately. (FOR GOD SAKES USE A TOYOTA HEAD GASKET IF YOU CAN!!!!) its $30 and faaaaaaaaaaarr better than any aftermarket.

and you mentioned your timing cover is chewed up.. dont let them sell you a rock auto one. go buy the toyota one. here is why- dont be fooled, the timing cover IS a wear item. the oil pump rides on it. Also the cheap copy ones usually are not perfectly straight on the mating surface. and in my opinion the toyota gaskets for the timing cover are not thick enough to take up a bunch of slop from a non flat mating surface.

I know that was a lot of word vomit, but I have a lot of things to say, warn against, etc...if you need any help or need advice. shoot me a pm or something.

later, and good luck.
 
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