rebuild or replace 22re?: specs inside

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turns out that ASTMD 4340 is:
Standard Test Method for Corrosion of Cast Aluminum Alloys in Engine Coolants Under Heat-Rejecting Conditions
Click to expand...

so the fact that those other companies dont meet that is pretty substantial in my book.
 
I just grabbed a gallon of regular green antifreeze off the shelf to see what it said on the back. Meets ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4340. It is a "low silicate" though.

I use some NAPA Kool each time I flush and refill. It's a corrosion inhibitor and helps to prevent cavitation.
 
fjfodee,
what is inside the napa kool? meaning what type of corrosion inhibitors are in it? if its not the inorganic phosphate kind like the toyota red's, then it will surely cause a goopy mess according to the post from yotatech. unless you use the green type with the silicates. just make sure the kool uses silicates too i guess.
 
I use it with the green. Says compatible with ethylene or propylene. Not compatible with carboxylate-based coolants. Tried to get someone in tech service to give me some info, but got the same old B.S.
 
k fellas,
i could use a little more help finding some torque specs.
I need solid numbers for the following (if available):

-engine motor mount bracket to block (not the 123 lb from fjfodees sweet faq posted list)

-rear engine / transmission bracket to block (the curvey ones that connect to bottom of bell housing, but the block side)

-2 fuel rail bolts (not 14 lb intake manifold torque)

-fuel inlet to fuel rail (the one with two copper washer seals- is this it? "Fuel Line-To-Delivery Pipe Union Bolt 32 ft lb" )

-EGR back plate on rear of head
 
yeah, thats kind of what i did for those three, i just wanted to make sure my "tight enough" was actually tight enough. lol
 
well,
last night i got everything done that needed to be done before i can stab this thing with the tranny. :cool:

All i have to do now has to wait until it comes off the stand cause it wont fit on there, like the rear main seal, fly wheel, clutch and pressure plate.

I quickly realized that i am missing a clutch alignment tool. when i rebuilt my trans, i just used the input shaft of the transmission to align the clutch before i put it in. well, now that is stuck in the truck obviously.

so i was thinking of making one at work today, but i need to know
1. the diameter of the splined portion of the input shaft
2. the inner diameter of the pilot bearing, and
3. the depth of the pilot bearing.

i could call my local parks auto and see if they have one but i would like to avoid having to pay $10 for a cheap piece of plastic ya know?
 
Dude... they're like $2 at AutoZone. You have better things to do with your time.

Besides, I've also used a deep socket in a pinch. It's not that big of a deal.
 
lol really?
i did a quick search online and the cheapest one i could find that was not a kit was like $14 bucks!

i will give them a call.:doh:
thanks
 
Well,
in spite of the horrible weather we have been having here the past couple of days, (including hail and 12 inches of rain) I managed to get the motor in the truck this past weekend and have been slowly working on getting things put together over the week.

Last night, I cranked it up for the first time. Fired right up. Only two little hickups so far. One, in my haste i didn't replace the heater core hoses, and of course one of them developed a small crack and is leaking a little. For right now, I just pushed it down onto the pipe a little further and put the clamp on higher. I will replace it soon.

The other hickup is still in the diagnosis phase. I had really high idle. (how high i dont know as this is the DLX model). I thought it might be the TPS sensor / idle stop screw on the throttle body. The thing that sucks is i spent like half an hour trying to setup the tps according to the specs in the fsm (with the shims and resistance readings). The only way i could get it close to what the book said was to screw in the idle stop adjustment screw considerably more than where the PO had it. which seemed weird to me. So I assumed that is the issue.

Like an idiot i thought i could adjust it out with the tps, so i undid the allen head bolts and tweaked it a little (realizing after that i ruined all the work i did). that didint help. if i turn it at all , the idle starts surging badly.
the only way to make it idle constantly is to make it really high.
so i may need to back out the idle stop screw, to lower the idle.

The other thing it might be is that little AAC valve thingy under the intake manifold that directs air into the throttle body based on engine temp. i read that they can fail and cause similar problems.

open to any suggestions at this point. I want to get it solved quickly (i.e. little run time on the engine) so i can properly break in the cam and then drive it on the highway to seat the rings.
 
more than likely,
this is my problem.
I think i have adjusted the idle stop screw so far to get the tps to come into spec that i have advanced it past the "vacuum advance port" and it wont idle for ****.

but my tps wont be able to meet specs if i put it back. can it be bad? well, the truck idled fine before i did this, but i know the PO messed with this, he said so. I dont know if mine is even OEM TPS. i guess i will have to see.
untitled.webp
 
Look in the FSM for what may cause a loping idle.

How are the ECT sensor and EGR system doing? Did you get all the air bubbles out of the cooling system?
 
Honestly, I havent run it long enough to even open up the thermostat yet.
i was hoping to get this solved first.
im pretty confident its in the throttle body somewhere cause i checked all of the other sensors as i was cleaning / painting them. plus i know i directly dicked with it before putting it on.

but those are on my list of things to check if this doesnt work
 
IT MOVES!!!

so, yesterday afternoon, I took off my throttle body and adjusted the butterfly valve back to the factory spec like it said. Fixed my idle right up.

Then i jacked the front of the truck up a good bit and ran the motor at about 2k for 20 minutes to break in the cam, while simultaneously burping the cooling system by leaving the radiator cap off. With the cab heater on to open up the heater core.

Everything seemed to be okay. never overflowed, but i did hear the fan come on and i could see the fluid moving through the top of the radiator so i assume the thermostat opened and there are no bubbles or anything. put nearly exactly what the book calls for as far as volume of coolant in there.


Then i took it for a ride. Runs and idles great. pulls great. only thing is it feels like there is little to no clutch. I.e. it only starts engaging at the last little bit of pedal extension. it was not like this before. I was a little worried that it might be my pressure plate because that is the only thing i replaced down there between now and when i rebuilt the transmission 500 miles ago. Clutch was new from previous owner and I put a new marlin crawler throw out and pilot bearing in. flywheel had .0015 run out radially and axially with no cracks. So nothing changed except the pressure plate.

The pressure plate is a toyota part, but it was different than the one i took out. it has less "fingers" but they are bigger. do you think it could be weaker than the original part and that is causing the weak clutch pedal?
maybe i just need to bleed the clutch, but i never disconnected any fluid lines during the rebuild. do you guys think that is possible? i know i did push the plunger back in by hand a couple times while trying to put the tranny in. could that have caused air to get in the system and hence require a bleed? or am i screwed and this new pressure plate part revision sucks?
 
update

well, i was out of town this past weekend and did not get to work on the 4runner.

in my spare few minutes i did do some figuring. the slave cylinder appears to be working perfectly fine. the rod has about 1/2" to 3/4" of throw onto the fork. (i can fit my thumb in between the fork and slave cylinder rod.) it also moves quite easily as i can push it in with my fingers with little effort from below the truck.

I also called toyota and confirmed the part number of the pressure plate. it was correct. i asked them if there were any notes about having to use a certain disk, or throw out bearing with that pressure plate because it was revised, but either the guy was an idiot and didnt know where to look, or there arent any. he said he "didnt see anything."
I did however find out that there is a toyota revision for the clutch disc as well.
my bet now is that, while my clutch disc is new, its the old style, and that the new revised pressure plate is designed to work with the revised clutch disc. which is probably thicker than mine. so basically, my clutch is acting like its worn out (too thin) even though the disc is new.

here are a pic of the old and new ones just for comparison.
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engine bay pics.

in the mean time, i thought i would throw up some pictures of the engine in the truck.

i dont have any pictures of it completely done and wired but you get the idea with these. i think it looks good in there. like it was made for it:cool:

ill try and get some completed pictures later. but as far as I can tell, it looks like the tranny is coming out again (second time in 8 months) so i can at least put in a different disc.
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100_0336-sm.webp
 
another thing i just noticed is, my throw out bearing is different.
okay, a little back story. when i rebuilt my transmission about 3 months ago, i got a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing from marlin crawler. i left the clutch disc and original pressure plate in there because the clutch disc was new from the PO and i didnt want to spend any money on the pressure plate because the whole clutch system was working fine before i took it apart.

well when i ordered the throw out bearing and pilot bearing from marlin, i did it over the phone. i just told the guy what i had. well, looking back at the website now, the throw out bearing picture looks different than the one i got. what i got looks like the 90-95 bearing:
Release Bearing, 1990-95 4cyl | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

the 88 should look like this according to their website:
Release Bearing, 1981-89 4cyl | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

maybe i got the wrong part?
but that doesn't explain why the clutch worked fine for the few months between my transmission and engine rebuild when i was running the old pressure plate, same clutch disc from PO, marlin pilot bearing and throw out bearing.
if the throw out bearing was wrong, dont you think it would not have worked properly with the original pressure plate and the PO's clutch disc?
 
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