Builds Rebuild of Trusty (10 Viewers)

[POPO AGIE]

The steering box mounting kit was delivered while I was gone working from Cruiser Matt and yesterday I worked on getting it installed.

Clamped the F250 shock mount to the frame and used an old shock for lining it up with the axle shock tab.

Bolted the new tubular fender mounting to the plate to check the shock mount placement.

Clamped the 1/4" outer plant to the frame and used the shock mount for proper placement to get the steering box as far toward the rear as possible.

Used a transfer punch to locate the new bolt holes while the plate was clamped.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Set up my mag base drill with a c-clamp and used my brass hammer to get the tip of the drill bit aligned with the punch marks.

First half inch hole drilled all the way through

All 4 half inch holes drilled through

Used a step bit to open the holes on the inside for the tubing and inside plate, then fitting the inside plate

Bolted up the steering box, still need to take it back apart and do some grinding so the the welds on the tubing and inside plate will pass through the holes on the inside of the frame and the tubing makes contact with the out frame. I may also need some washers for shims.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I`m surprised Yerington even has a hospital. Hope it wasn't serious and glad you made it home.

It was a good thing they had a hospital. I had a UTI and suspected it was from the salad bowls I was eating from a sub shop. I needed a catheter for a while, but they put me on the right anti biotic and cleared up.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Worked on the mounting plates and the frame today for the power steering box. I opened up the holes on the inside of the frame and ground down the tacks until I could pull the inner plate flush with the frame. Torqued the bolts to 100 lbs and the crush sleeve were pulled up the inner wall of the outer frame.

I had to cut a notch in the inner plate to clear the c-channel the supports the radiator support and then welded.

Secured the bottom of the fan shroud to the radiator support so it would not rattle.

Set the radiator support on the new cross member with the canvas spacers. and bolted in place.

Just enough clearance between the steering box and the radiator support using the 1/4" outer plate.

Hot bolted the relay rod in place and will paint tomorrow.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Looks like the angle and clearance of the relay rod and tie rod will be good in full right turn.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Today I removed the relay rod and set up to paint one coat with Por then sprayed it before I quite for the night.

After seen Kurt had been running the bell housing motor mounts I decided to put them back on, but had to grind both to work with the aluminum adapter plate between the R2.8 and the 2F bell housing. The DS I had to trim back a flange on the forward side because the starter is now on the DS. I am glad that I put the PS back on because with out it I did not have a mount for the slave cylinder. When I pulled the motor the DS mount on the bell housing was bent and now that I have the DS mount in place the holes dont line up so I can drop a straight bolt through with the mounts. There must have been a mistake or I need a bent bolt that I through away to used the DS.

I put the cover on the bottom after cutting the vertical flange and grinding back the edge so it would fit with the adapter plate and got it installed.

Reinstalled the crossmember and bolted everything up and was done for the day.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Has anyone seen this before? I thought when I took it apart that the original bolt was damaged from the accident but it is in the wrong direction. But the new motor mounts for the conversion were bolted to the frame in existing holes before tacking, the passenger side bell housing mounts and bolt went in with some pressurization and was used to help line things up for the new crossmember. I was not able to use the DS mount because of the flange on the forward side of that mount so was useless for alignment.

 

[mrboatman]

That’s almost likely the frame is not square

 

[POPO AGIE]

That’s almost likely the frame is not square

If the impact had caused the frame to be out of square there would be deformations when the hole edge came in contact with the bolt. The surfaces are clean. The bolt did not show impact damage either.

 

[mrboatman]

It’s very strange. I wonder if the mount not correct from the beginning. Just thinking out loud

 

[POPO AGIE]

The pain was dry on the relay rod even though it was pretty cold over night and the heat was turned off. I installed the relay rod and torqued the TREs and got a new cotter pin from town to finish the TIEs. I torqued them to 80 lbs and the Pitman arm end I had to install a washer under the nut so that the cotter pin would engage the nut. The front axle steering is now complete.

Removed the tire again to torque the Pitman arm nut to 130 lbs as per information found on MUD.

As far as the miss aligned hole for the DS motor mount I will just open it up with a die grinder and hope I can still get a wrench in the window to tighten up the bolt and nut.

 

[POPO AGIE]

It’s very strange. I wonder if the mount not correct from the beginning. Just thinking out loud

That is what I am thinking and at the factory they modified the bolt. The only other thing I found pulling the motor was the front motor mount was broken because it separated when I lifted the block but there were not signs of deformation there either. The front tire took most of the impact and them my brush guard became a ramp that rolled the F350 onto its side. The front wheels did not track together anymore so moving it dead was a pain. That has all been repaired now after rebuilding the front axle and the front wheels track together now.

 

[mrboatman]

Maybe go under it and stretch a tape from corner to corner x pattern just to make you feel better and cross that off. I can’t see the factory modifying an engine mount bolt.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I was doing some investigation the last two days about having a high idle for cold weather starts with my R2.8. Since I was told a diesel shop in MT had the ability to get that set up I reached out to shops in the Belgrade area. One responded and said to check with Axis Industries so I did.

I got a response back and if I send my PCM they can activate the high idle feature and asked if they could do anything else while they had the PCM.

This will also allow me to run my mechanical fan with out throwing a code and they can also conjure my pedal for fly by wire.. Still finding out what the benefit that would be for my build.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Went out and did a test fit with the new FJ80 intermediate shaft and u-joints and found that the bolt will hit the water pump inlet elbow and looks like if I unbolt it and clock it down will make plumbing easier and clear the bolt on the u-joint. I am glad I shimmed the steering box out 1/4" from the frame.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Went out and did a test fit with the new FJ80 intermediate shaft and u-joints and found that the bolt will hit the water pump inlet elbow and looks like if I unbolt it and clock it down will make plumbing easier and clear the bolt on the u-joint. I am glad I shimmed the steering box out 1/4" from the frame.

View attachment 3817165

any chance you can share the 80 series steering shaft part numbers, I just installed the 80 series box on my LS build project.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I shopped around for price and if they took PayPal the shaft is just over $300.
Here are instructions for installing and using the U-joints with the part numbers. I used eBay to get the best price. One shipped from Japan and the other shipped from China and were both JDM parts and came in the plastic with the Toyota part numbers.

40 Series Steering Column To 80 Series Chassis - Refab - https://refab.com.au/40-series-steering-coll-om-to-80-series-chassis-40-80-steering/

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I shopped around for price and if they took PayPal they shaft is just over $300.
Here are instructions for installing and using the U-joints with the part numbers. I used eBay to get the best price. One shipped from Japan and the other shipped from China and were both JDM parts and came in the plastic with the Toyota part numbers.

40 Series Steering Column To 80 Series Chassis - Refab - https://refab.com.au/40-series-steering-coll-om-to-80-series-chassis-40-80-steering/


View attachment 3818475
View attachment 3818481

thanks for sharing

 

[POPO AGIE]

thanks for sharing

It works better for us if we share with each other on our projects.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I removed the intake elbow at the water pump to see if it could be clocked like the upper on that is attached to the thermostat housing and the spacing on the flange bolts are not concentric so it only works in one location. I also found out it has an O-ring for sealing.

I loosened the bolts for the steering box and used 2 half inch washers on each bolt to shim it out some more from the frame. I have more clearance between the U-joint and the boss on the elbow but may have to use a grinder to get more after I have the intermediate shaft connected to the steering column after it has been modified. The other end is centered in the hole in the fire wall.

The two washers on the upper bolt I had to take a grinder to and make horseshoes out of them because the bolt head was hitting the radiator support.

This support was bent up from the accident so I took a large crescent wrench and bent out of the way to get to the rivet heads with a grinder.

Getting ready to strip off the PS side

Stripping down