Builds Rebuild of Trusty (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter POPO AGIE
- Start date
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POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #183
Last check before stopping for today. It is not there yet but it is not as tight as it was before when I first started.
I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters over the weekend I got a response this morning. They said that the housing from this vintage has to have the clearance opened up because the new Birfields are bigger then the stock shafts from a 1978. They confirmed that the grinding and polishing was the right way to open the clearance.
I reached out to Cruiser Outfitters over the weekend I got a response this morning. They said that the housing from this vintage has to have the clearance opened up because the new Birfields are bigger then the stock shafts from a 1978. They confirmed that the grinding and polishing was the right way to open the clearance.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #184
Did a little housekeeping and emptied my shop vacuum and got some of the floor cleaned up.
I put layout dye on the knuckle
Found a high spot and would grind accordingly, rinse and repeat until the splines would engage and would turn with the differential
Success got the short side to engage with the splines in the locker
Removed the Birfield and cleaned up and started packing with grease and reinstalled the short side Birfield and finished packing with grease
Didn't have a backing plate shim so I covered and zip tied a bag over the knuckle
I put layout dye on the knuckle
Found a high spot and would grind accordingly, rinse and repeat until the splines would engage and would turn with the differential
Success got the short side to engage with the splines in the locker
Removed the Birfield and cleaned up and started packing with grease and reinstalled the short side Birfield and finished packing with grease
Didn't have a backing plate shim so I covered and zip tied a bag over the knuckle
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #185
Working on getting clearance for the long side Birfield until the Birfield would pass the trunnions and engage with the splines in the locker
After cleaning the knuckle and ball out greased up the inner axle seal and install the shaft and packed the knuckle with grease
Covered up for when I can build out the hub
Prepping the new Toyota V8 calipers for paint
Prepped the surface and the put a gray primer coat on the calipers. The can of red top coat was solid and not good.
After cleaning the knuckle and ball out greased up the inner axle seal and install the shaft and packed the knuckle with grease
Covered up for when I can build out the hub
Prepping the new Toyota V8 calipers for paint
Prepped the surface and the put a gray primer coat on the calipers. The can of red top coat was solid and not good.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #187
I followed the instructions and it did not show the seal and got every bolt torqued to 30 lbs and then installed the wheel hub and torqued the inner nut and saw it was not going to work well with out the seal so I pulled the hub back off
Got everything lined back up and found out why the shim was welded on. Did not have enough hands so used a jack to support the spindel so it would not fall out of the fit.
Reinstalled the wheel hub and set the preload and then final torque and bent the inner lock tab the outer lock tab was bent
Gasket installed
Got everything lined back up and found out why the shim was welded on. Did not have enough hands so used a jack to support the spindel so it would not fall out of the fit.
Reinstalled the wheel hub and set the preload and then final torque and bent the inner lock tab the outer lock tab was bent
Gasket installed
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #189
Today I painted the wheel hubs from the flange to the inboard side and mounted the new rotors.
Rotors and calipers installed
Side view of the monster caliper
May have to get longer wheel studs for the alloy rims
When time to adjust the alignment will have to remove the calipers
Rotors and calipers installed
Side view of the monster caliper
May have to get longer wheel studs for the alloy rims
When time to adjust the alignment will have to remove the calipers
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #190
Today I chased the threads on all the wheel studs and one was not biting in so I took it out by hand and put in the vise and used a center punch and stippled it and then when I put it back in it held for the little torque I need to hold the alignment bars.
Removed the calipers for the alignment bars and centered the knuckles. Installed the tie rod ends finger tight to take the measurement from the bottom of the weld prep to the other weld prep.
The LH threaded parts did not come marked so I did it on both pairs of LH nuts and bungs.
Set up the DOM tubing after it was cut in the chop saw and ready to grind the weld prep
Started grinding the weld prep
Finished the weld prep and then worked on the other end
Removed the calipers for the alignment bars and centered the knuckles. Installed the tie rod ends finger tight to take the measurement from the bottom of the weld prep to the other weld prep.
The LH threaded parts did not come marked so I did it on both pairs of LH nuts and bungs.
Set up the DOM tubing after it was cut in the chop saw and ready to grind the weld prep
Started grinding the weld prep
Finished the weld prep and then worked on the other end
POPO AGIE
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- #194
Today my LH M23x1.5 tap showed up so I got the LH bungs chased and then once the LH thread tie rod end was threaded in I installed the tie rod and torqued the tie rod ends.
I did not know what the torque value was so I did a search and a MUD page came up with the torque valve for M11 and M12 tie rod ends and showed 79 ft lbs for M12. These tie rod ends measured .541" which converted to 13.74 mm's. I torqued them to 85 ft lbs.
I locked the hubs and rotated to get the alignment bars close to horizontal the unlocked them to get them closer to each other after unlocking the hubs. The hubs and locker are working as they should.
I put my welding magnets on one bar so the it would hold the end of the tape measure and adjusted the tie rod for ~.125" of toe in. The manual said the spec for for a H78-15 tire size. I will be going with as close to 35" as it can but should work to get it to an alignment shop to get the final alignment done.
The tie rod is well above the arc of the ring gear, I wont know what the clearance of the tie rod will be to the FJ80 steering box is until I have the new suspension and the steering box and get the location mocked up.
Has any one else done a 4" SUA with a high steer set up and a FJ80 steering box and had clearance issues?
I did not know what the torque value was so I did a search and a MUD page came up with the torque valve for M11 and M12 tie rod ends and showed 79 ft lbs for M12. These tie rod ends measured .541" which converted to 13.74 mm's. I torqued them to 85 ft lbs.
I locked the hubs and rotated to get the alignment bars close to horizontal the unlocked them to get them closer to each other after unlocking the hubs. The hubs and locker are working as they should.
I put my welding magnets on one bar so the it would hold the end of the tape measure and adjusted the tie rod for ~.125" of toe in. The manual said the spec for for a H78-15 tire size. I will be going with as close to 35" as it can but should work to get it to an alignment shop to get the final alignment done.
The tie rod is well above the arc of the ring gear, I wont know what the clearance of the tie rod will be to the FJ80 steering box is until I have the new suspension and the steering box and get the location mocked up.
Has any one else done a 4" SUA with a high steer set up and a FJ80 steering box and had clearance issues?
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #195
I drove up to Belgrade Montana to the Overland Cruiser shop to pick up there kit to mate the R2.8 to a Toyota bell housing. They also had the motor mounts and the transmission crossmember ready for me also.
He took around the shop and they had a FJ40 on the hoist and showed me how to set up the plates that are welded to the frame for the crossmember and the motor mounts. They have holes in the plate to use existing bolt holes in the frame I did not even know were there and a rivet to index the location. Have the weight of the motor and transmission on the isolators get everything squared up and tack. Then pull the drive train back out and burn everything in.
I will take photos and post.
He took around the shop and they had a FJ40 on the hoist and showed me how to set up the plates that are welded to the frame for the crossmember and the motor mounts. They have holes in the plate to use existing bolt holes in the frame I did not even know were there and a rivet to index the location. Have the weight of the motor and transmission on the isolators get everything squared up and tack. Then pull the drive train back out and burn everything in.
I will take photos and post.
rossl
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Yeah, I’d love to see how you do that, even now that I have everything burned in.
POPO AGIE
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- Thread starter
- #200
The frame side motor mounts that have a hole to index to an rivet or bolt hole on the frame
Motor side mount
De massed Cummins flywheel
Crank extension installed and the bolts torqued to 89 ft. lbs. You have to have a crows foot to torque them because a socket and ratchet will not fit between the flanges. The Toyota pilot bearing was already installed.
I used my tractor to hang a com a long from to lift just the back end enough to install the adapter plate. The bolts were all torqued to 22 ft. lbs. I had new bell housing bolts from Toyota and thread pitch was wrong so will have to source some more.
Motor side mount
De massed Cummins flywheel
Crank extension installed and the bolts torqued to 89 ft. lbs. You have to have a crows foot to torque them because a socket and ratchet will not fit between the flanges. The Toyota pilot bearing was already installed.
I used my tractor to hang a com a long from to lift just the back end enough to install the adapter plate. The bolts were all torqued to 22 ft. lbs. I had new bell housing bolts from Toyota and thread pitch was wrong so will have to source some more.
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