Rebuild of 4-Speed and Transfer Case (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did the jaws work? Worried about how thin they had to be to get in there.
I haven't pulled them yet. I am waiting for the Knipex plyers show up so I can get the last snap ring removed. FedEx tracking shows they will be delivered today.

One bearing on the input shaft is driven out by using a punch and it moved easily, but until the counter shaft bearings are pulled the input shaft won't come out.
 
When TJ saw my FJ45. He told me about a relative with a Landcruiser that took him to some cool places. He mentioned the Diesel engine swap too. I read your posts and just realized you bought it new. I have lived across the street from TJ for over 8 years. I am lucky to have good neighbors. When I see TJ I will tell him about you too. Wyoming is a big state but it is still like a small town. I hope it doesn’t change.
I was born in Rawlins, and have lived in Wyoming most of my life and then have also lived in Colorado, Montana and PA. I always came back to Wyoming.

I sent TJ pictures of the transmission and transfer case and asked if he knew what they were he didn't. He likes to remind me he is just a PE Teacher and I am the Engineer. TJ comes from good people and I looked up to his Dad.
 
This is a great post. Thanks for walking us through it. Do you have the torque values for the tcase and transmission covers? I’m finishing up my 1979 4 speed/ tcase combo and have read conflicting information.
B08CE4A3-0E3D-442A-ACDC-821A167B6A28.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The number on the head of the bolt corresponds with a torque chart in the Repair Manual for the Chassie and Body.
Transmission and transfer case cover bolt torque=21.7-32.6 ft-lb


This is a great post. Thanks for walking us through it. Do you have the torque values for the tcase and transmission covers? I’m finish up my 1979 4 speed/ tcase combo and have read conflicting information.
View attachment 2726934
 
The number on the head of the bolt corresponds with a torque chart in the Repair Manual for the Chassie and Body.
Transmission and transfer case cover bolt torque=21.7-32.6 ft-lb

I learned something new today! I figured they meant something but didn’t know. Now I can go back to bed since I learned one thing. LOL.
 
I learned something new today! I figured they meant something but didn’t know. Now I can go back to bed since I learned one thing. LOL.
try to find Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Manual for the Chassis and Body #99154.
 
try to find Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Manual for the Chassis and Body #99154.
When I took Diesel in College the torque spec for the first round in the cylinder head of a Deutz was holding a 1/2" drive ratchet chocked up with your thumb wrapped around the head. Everyone will torque in the range of 25-28 ft-lbs. Does not matter what your strength is or man or woman. We proved it one day in the lab.
 
When I took Diesel in College the torque spec for the first round in the cylinder head of a Deutz was holding a 1/2" drive ratchet chocked up with your thumb wrapped around the head. Everyone will torque in the range of 25-28 ft-lbs. Does not matter what your strength is or man or woman. We proved it one day in the lab.
Deutz, if I remember correctly Diesel engine with air cooled cylinders like a 911. I always thought that design was odd.
 
The two they had at the Colleger were air cooled. But I have seen both oil and water cooled in construction equipment.
Deutz, if I remember correctly Diesel engine with air cooled cylinders like a 911. I always thought that design was odd
 
Got it. Now I just have to open it. I will though as soon as parts start flying. Just got my carb back so first up, get it started.
The torque charts in chapter 13.
 
Posting torque settings from SST here. The below highlighted in blue says that the numbers on head correspond to torque settings in chart but only for steel. The transfer case is aluminum so the values must be reconsidered...
4FCBAFD4-8403-4C22-ABA0-805B13EA9899.jpeg

8D29E82B-D90D-4724-A149-B51F8B7266BF.jpeg

BCCADBF0-383A-4F04-A759-E3D21153FCDC.jpeg
 
I got the last snap ring out, but the jaws were too weak and one was straightening out.

I think I can make up a all thread with a nut coupling and bolts that I can pull straight like it did separating the transfer case from the transmission. If not I will take to a shop to have the bearings pulled.

  1. I have thought out how to build a SST 09950-20014 with the puller I separated the transfer case because it pulls straight and is rigid and will be able to set it up with 2 hands. The 2-jaw set up was a Monkey and Football situation.
    I will get some
    • G-8 all threads
    • 4 nuts
    • 2 washers
    • 2 coupling nuts
    • 2 bolts that I will grind one side of the head off so it will go through the hole in the case on each side of the bearing race then rotate the bolt
    • 2 more nuts and two washers and once the bolt is rotated so the head is pulled up against the race inside the case torque the nuts against a washer and the case and race outside
    • Attach the all thread to the bolts with the nut couplings and then attach the puller bar and snug up the nuts on each side of the bar​
    • then I should be able to apply torque to the jacking bolt​
    PULLER USED TO SEPERATE THE TRANSFER CASE FROM THE TRANSMISSION.jpg

I found on another forum where someone did something similar to what I am going to build

1625981811645.png
 
Last edited:
Toyota SST 09950-20014
64766909764__16775A1C-EF65-4257-AE89-B8A24C5CD3F1.jpg
 
Worked on pulling bearings today with limited success.

I got some grade 8 hardware and two 1/2x3/8 coupling nuts and 3/8" nuts, a stick of 1/2" all thread with 1/2" nuts.

Spent the day doing a lot grinding to get the 3/8" bolt heads to go through the half-moon holes in the case and hook to the back side of the bearing races. I was able to get the counter shaft bearings removed except for the inner race on the output end but the outer race came out.

The input shaft came out once the counter shaft was out of the way and gears were out of mesh.

Had to grind on 3/8" bolts some more to work on the output shaft bearing, but by the time I got them both to fit through the half moon holes, one had lost its hardness from the heat of grinding and you not stay in place against the race and would rotate and slip off the back of the race.

Will get another 3/8" bolt and grind to get the profile to pull with.

PULLER PULLING THE INPUT END BEARING.jpg


PULLER SET UP.jpg



INPUT END OF THE COUNTER SHAFT BEARING REMOVED.jpg
 
Removed the output end bearing outer race and roller from the counter shaft and the input shaft with the bearing.

INPUT SHAFT REMOVED.jpg
 
Been gone for a few days for work.

Went out and tried to grind on the bolt I was pulling the bearing race and it would just pull out when using the puller.

The Local Auto shop loaned me this puller and the jaws catch the snap ring groove.
FOUND A PULLER THAT PULLS FROM THE SNAP RING GROVE.jpg



I had to use a ratchet strap to keep the jaws in the snap ring jaw

USED A RATCHET STRAP TO KEEP THE JAWS IN THE GROOVE.jpg


This worked as far as pushing the main shaft out of the inner race.

I have a clamshell puller loaned to me and I will get two jacking bolts and see if I can get the race to move in the bore of the case.

CLAMSHELL PULLER.jpg
 
The Allen Head 5/8"-18 TPH arrived today from Granger by FedEx and went out and get them threaded into the clamshell puller and cranked on the by hand with a Allen wrench and got the bearing out of the casing bore.

I would like to thank Bob's Auto Equipment shop in Riverton, Wyoming for loaning the pullers to get this bearing removed.

PULLER PULLING THE BEARING OUT OF THE BORE.jpg


ALLEN BOLTS DOING THE WORK.jpg


BEARING OUT OF THE CASE BORE.jpg


Now I will run the puller back into town and return to Bob's Auto Equimpment shop.
 
Removed the main shaft



REMOVED THE MAIN SHAFT.jpg


Removed the counter shaft

COUNTER SHAFT REMOVED.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom