I wrote up a quick how-to:
Hope that helps.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Hope that helps.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Rebuild of 4-Speed and Transfer Case
- Thread starter POPO AGIE
- Start date
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POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
Took 3 days off to go to a concert in Casper, Wyoming.
Got back yesterday and started the idler gear shaft far enough to support the first thrust washer. I got a deep socket that was a little smaller than the shaft for the other side to support the thrust washer. The washer supported by the socket fell of once but used a screwdriver to keep the pushed back out of the way and set the washer again. Tried again and everything aligned and neither washer fell out of place.
Idler gear installed with the shaft in place, new thrust washers and the roller bearings and spacer in the idler bore
Installed the new freeze plug once the shaft was locked in place. The O-ring on the other end was lubed with O-ring grease. RTV was put under the freeze plug before setting.
Output shaft placed in the case with a new bearing with the gears in mesh. Lubed the mating surfaces first.
Installed the Hi/Lo shifter fork, shaft and detent ball with spring. Used a new cotter pin supplied with the kit. Used silicone grease on the O-ring
Got back yesterday and started the idler gear shaft far enough to support the first thrust washer. I got a deep socket that was a little smaller than the shaft for the other side to support the thrust washer. The washer supported by the socket fell of once but used a screwdriver to keep the pushed back out of the way and set the washer again. Tried again and everything aligned and neither washer fell out of place.
Idler gear installed with the shaft in place, new thrust washers and the roller bearings and spacer in the idler bore
Installed the new freeze plug once the shaft was locked in place. The O-ring on the other end was lubed with O-ring grease. RTV was put under the freeze plug before setting.
Output shaft placed in the case with a new bearing with the gears in mesh. Lubed the mating surfaces first.
Installed the Hi/Lo shifter fork, shaft and detent ball with spring. Used a new cotter pin supplied with the kit. Used silicone grease on the O-ring
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #46
Front drive cone installed
Spacer then the speedometer gear was installed on the shaft. The Thrust shim was set in the bore around the bearing on the rear output shaft.
Case prepped for the speedometer housing gasket
Gasket for the speedometer housing
Speedometer housing prepped
Spacer then the speedometer gear was installed on the shaft. The Thrust shim was set in the bore around the bearing on the rear output shaft.
Case prepped for the speedometer housing gasket
Gasket for the speedometer housing
Speedometer housing prepped
Glad the info I provided helped.
FWIW, we sell the rebuild kits, Tcase & nose cone saver kits, dual-seal rear extension housings and much more ……
Happy to help.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Shop 209-475-8808
FWIW, we sell the rebuild kits, Tcase & nose cone saver kits, dual-seal rear extension housings and much more ……
Happy to help.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Shop 209-475-8808
we build lots of those combos. Happy to help.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #51
What are the options? Would be interested in the OD Hi range and lower LO range.
I do not want to move the ebrake to the rear axle I like it on the transfer case. The I only have one ebrake to worry about not two.
H55F transmission mated to the TC.
I plan to replace or convert my rear axle to a Full Floater with disk brakes.
Repower with a R2.8 diesel.
Feel free to call or email the shop 209-475-8808 and we’ll be happy to send you a quote.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
POPO making great progress.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
My set of pics showed up today so I finished the speedometer gear by removing the O-ring that seals the shaft inside the housing.
Then installed the new O-ring and inserted the bushing and the shaft of the gear.
Once the parking brake was cleaned there was no paint on it so I took a wire wheel to the rust and then painted it.
While waiting for the paint to dry I started on prepping and installing the front drive shift housing with Permatex Ultra black
Gasket for the front drive shifter housing
Prepped the front shifter housing with Prematex and greased the fork
Then installed the new O-ring and inserted the bushing and the shaft of the gear.
Once the parking brake was cleaned there was no paint on it so I took a wire wheel to the rust and then painted it.
While waiting for the paint to dry I started on prepping and installing the front drive shift housing with Permatex Ultra black
Gasket for the front drive shifter housing
Prepped the front shifter housing with Prematex and greased the fork
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #55
Installed the front drive shifter housing after exercising the shifter to check the detents
When inventorying the new parking brake parts the pivot pins were larger than the holes in the brake shoes. I measured the pings with a 0-1" micrometer and they were .0313" so used a .316" drill but to open them enough for the pins.
Brake pre assembled
Brake mounted on the transfer case
When inventorying the new parking brake parts the pivot pins were larger than the holes in the brake shoes. I measured the pings with a 0-1" micrometer and they were .0313" so used a .316" drill but to open them enough for the pins.
Brake pre assembled
Brake mounted on the transfer case
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #56
Installed the brake drum, torqued and staked the nut
Front drive flange installed with the nut torqued and staked. Applied grease to the splines before installing the flange.
Covered the Drive openings and the PTO and put off to the side to start on the transmission.
Front drive flange installed with the nut torqued and staked. Applied grease to the splines before installing the flange.
Covered the Drive openings and the PTO and put off to the side to start on the transmission.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #57
Today started on the Transmission
Removed the Top Cover from the 4-Speed
Removed the Rear Bearing Cover
Removed the Front Bearing cover
Removed the snap rings retaining the Main Shaft bearings and one on the Counter shaft. Will remove the smaller snap ring on the Counter shaft next.
Removed the Top Cover from the 4-Speed
Removed the Rear Bearing Cover
Removed the Front Bearing cover
Removed the snap rings retaining the Main Shaft bearings and one on the Counter shaft. Will remove the smaller snap ring on the Counter shaft next.
@POPO AGIE nice work! Question, can you take a close up of the steel spacer that's on the trans output shaft? I pulled my T case yesterday and noticed a little axial wear on that sleeve. I'm curious if yours is worn similar to mine.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #59
So far for gear boxes with over 100k miles and then set for 20 years there is very little wear on anything. The only wear I have found so far was on the idler gear one thrust washer was discolored, a little wear on the Idler shaft, and some minor pitting on the front drive shifter shaft.
here are 3 photos of the spacer sleeve from the output shaft. no wear at all.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
I just could not stand it and went back out to removed the smaller snap rings on the Idler shaft holding the inner race. I got one removed but the external pliers have replaceable tips and would not hold one tip. When they did spread the snap ring it would not quite come out of the groove. I just place an order for Knipex set of snap ring pliers.