Rebuild of 4-Speed and Transfer Case (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 16, 2021
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139
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Riverton, Wyoming
Today I started on the disassembly of the Transmission and the Transfer Case out of 1978 FJ40. The gear boxes were removed from the bell housing sometime in the late 90s when I started to take the truck apart. My Dad helped me get them off of the floor and inside the truck to move it to an indoor storage. The he helped me to get it loaded on a car hauler and towed it to SE PA.

I have been working and got back home this week and the rebuild kits that were bought by the buyer and my tooling were here waiting for me.

Since we live in a fairly remote place in Central Wyoming the neighbors are not real close so I had to find a way to get the gear boxes out of the truck.

TRACTOR.jpg


Trusty John Deere tractor for heavy lifting.

LOCATION OF GEAR BOXES.jpg

Location of the gear boxes.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
139
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Riverton, Wyoming
I removed the PS door and moved the shelves out of the way.
GEAR BOXES INSIDE THE TRUCK.jpg


Pulled the tracker up close to the truck.



TRACTOR IS CLOSE BUT NOT QUIT ENOUGH.jpg



Drug the boxes in to the bucket. I won.





GOT THEM IN TO THE BUCKET.jpg


The went out side to drain the oil into a container.
 
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Messages
139
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Riverton, Wyoming
Brought them back in and set them on a bench that I through together.

MOVED TO BENCH AFTER GETTING THE OIL DRAINED.jpg


Then removed the nut and removed the brake drum.

REMOVED THE BRAKE DRUM.jpg


Then removed the retaining nut at the top of the brake shoes and the retaining pins to remove the brake shoes.
Then removed the 3 bolts behind the shoes (there were 4 bolts there but one was missing when the 155F was installed.) and removed the backing plate.
 
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Riverton, Wyoming
The removed the speedo housing once the backing plate was removed. After pulling the speedometer pinion gear and housing.
SPEEDO AND BRAKE MOUNT REMOVED.jpg


Then removed the speedometer gear from the shaft.
SPEEDOMETER GEAR CONDITION.jpg


Shot of the pinion gear inside of the housing.
SPEEDO AND BRAKE MOUNT REMOVED.jpg
SPEEDOMETER GEAR CONDITION.jpg
SPEEDO PINION GEAR.jpg
 
Joined
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Riverton, Wyoming
Then removed the PTO cover and the top cover.
PTO GEAR COVER REMOVED.jpg


TOP COVER REMOVED.jpg


Then removed the shift linkage from the transmission and removed all of the bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission including the two inside of the PTO cover.

The set up the new puller with M10 X 1.25 bolts I bought from NAPA with washers. The bolts I bought were just a little short but was able to make it work by using 1 bolt and the jacking bolt as a lever to get it to separate. Then was able to use the bolts and reach the bar with the jacking bolt back almost all the way out so just the tip was in the output shaft.
With the !/2" impact I just bumped the jacking bolt until the transfer case came completely off of the transmission.

PULLER USED TO SEPERATE THE TRANSFER CASE FROM THE TRANSMISSION.jpg


Removed the front drive extension and the shifter fork. Remove the shift detent plug ball and spring. Removed the plug that covers the shift fork bolt. Removed the four bolts that attach the shift housing to the front drive extension.
 
Joined
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Messages
139
Location
Riverton, Wyoming
I was not able to remove the Hi Lo shifting fork shaft so took the case to a local shop to get it out. The hydraulic press was not working the pressures were getting to high so that was stopped. The shaft was driven in the opposite direction shown in the manual toward the front.

The end of the shaft was mushroomed just enough that it would not pass through the shift fork or out the back side of the case. The end was dressed down with a grinder and the shaft was removed.

When I got it back home I removed the input gear and was able to get the needle bearings and spacer from the Idler gear. I have no idea how they got the idler gear in to the case unless they shrunk it with nitrogen or dry ice and alcohol to get it through the PTO cover opening. there is a boss where the shifting fork passes into the case that is raised just enough to keep the gear from getting passed.

I have worked on mechanical equipment most of my life and I am just amazed that Toyota kept the mechanics simple but over built. This little transfer case doesn't look like much on the outside but inside the gears are in pristine condition and all the bearings rolled freely. This case has not been opened since it was assembled sometime before Feb of 1978 with over 100K miles on it the gaskets are even all in tact. I rebuilt a NP203 in college and skipped my welding classes to do it. The NP is very heavy but I was not impress with the lower gear set in the low range box because the needle bearings were not captured like they are on the Toyota idler shaft. We had to machine a dummy shaft to keep the free needle bearings from falling out with grease to install the shaft.

The shift fork shaft and fork after removal
SHAFT AND SHIFTING FORK.jpg


The end of the shaft that was ground. Will seal both ends with Permatex Ultra Black when assembled.
SHIFTING SHAFT HAD TO BE GROUND ON THE END TO REMOVE FROM THE CASE.jpg


Idler gear not coming out so will have to be cleaned in place.

IDLER GEAR STILL IN THE CASE.jpg


Idler shaft needle bearings, spacer and thrust washers
IDLER SHAFT NEEDLE BEARINGS, SPACER AND THRUST WASHERS.jpg
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
139
Location
Riverton, Wyoming
Today I worked on the front drive extension cone. I had to get out a machinist out of the box that I had bought years ago when I lived in PA to hold the cone so that I could remove the bearing retaining ring. Then tapped the shaft and bearing out of the housing with a brass drift and ball peen hammer.

Those parts all went into the solvent to see if the results will be that same as I had with the Warn hubs. I lifted the tray and put these parts under the tray to soak.

FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT AND CONE READY FOR CLEANING.jpg


Will remove the bearing and race tomorrow after the soak.
 

merbesfield

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Joined
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Messages
3,262
Location
Atlanta, GA
I was not able to remove the Hi Lo shifting fork shaft so took the case to a local shop to get it out. The hydraulic press was not working the pressures were getting to high so that was stopped. The shaft was driven in the opposite direction shown in the manual toward the front.

The end of the shaft was mushroomed just enough that it would not pass through the shift fork or out the back side of the case. The end was dressed down with a grinder and the shaft was removed.

When I got it back home I removed the input gear and was able to get the needle bearings and spacer from the Idler gear. I have no idea how they got the idler gear in to the case unless they shrunk it with nitrogen or dry ice and alcohol to get it through the PTO cover opening. there is a boss where the shifting fork passes into the case that is raised just enough to keep the gear from getting passed.

I have worked on mechanical equipment most of my life and I am just amazed that Toyota kept the mechanics simple but over built. This little transfer case doesn't look like much on the outside but inside the gears are in pristine condition and all the bearings rolled freely. This case has not been opened since it was assembled sometime before Feb of 1978 with over 100K miles on it the gaskets are even all in tact. I rebuilt a NP203 in college and skipped my welding classes to do it. The NP is very heavy but I was not impress with the lower gear set in the low range box because the needle bearings were not captured like they are on the Toyota idler shaft. We had to machine a dummy shaft to keep the free needle bearings from falling out with grease to install the shaft.

The shift fork shaft and fork after removal
View attachment 2707395

The end of the shaft that was ground. Will seal both ends with Permatex Ultra Black when assembled.
View attachment 2707396

Idler gear not coming out so will have to be cleaned in place.

View attachment 2707397

Idler shaft needle bearings, spacer and thrust washers
View attachment 2707399

Are the Needle bearings retained or do new ones come in the rebuild kit? Looks nice.
 
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Feb 15, 2016
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Somerset KY
@POPO AGIE be careful using a john deer for landcruiser work. Those are for fords and chevys. What you need is a Kubota or a Yanmar!

On a serios note, I'm very surprised to see the PTO gear in place on such a late truck.

Keep up the good work!
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
139
Location
Riverton, Wyoming
@POPO AGIE be careful using a john deer for landcruiser work. Those are for fords and chevys. What you need is a Kubota or a Yanmar!

On a serios note, I'm very surprised to see the PTO gear in place on such a late truck.

Keep up the good work!
Brenden620
My John Deere has a Yanmar 4 banger and the tractor was built in GA.

Years ago I thought putting a stock PTO on the truck and was told by SOR back then that I would have to buy the PTO drive gear because it was no longer used. I was surprised that it was there also.


I am a direct descendent of Light Horse Harry Lee of Virginia and his younger Brother Robert E. Lee. I was living in PA and my Dad was with me doing a road trip from Wyoming because he had given me his HiLO trailer we stopped at a relatives farm near Gettysburg for the night so we went to the battle field. I looked at Dad and told him we most likely had family on both sides of the line that day.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
139
Location
Riverton, Wyoming
My puller kits showed up yesterday so was removing bearings today. I also did a parts inventory of the transfer case parts kit. Looks like everything is there.

Was cleaning on the front output cone that I had soaked all night and for some reason the aluminum comes out fuzzy. So I ran to town and got scotch brite and aluminum brite.

Pulled the bearing from the front drive output shaft.
PULLING THE BEARING FROM THE FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT.jpg


Then I moved to stripping the main output shaft the bearing, gear and clutch collar slid off.

Then had to get creative removing the internal needle bearing from the main shaft using the kit that came in yesterday

Found the right collet to fit the ID of the needle bearing. It took a lot of torque to get it to bit and keeping it straight in the bore.

COLLETTE USED TO PULL THE INTERNAL NEEDLE BEARING.jpg



Slide hammer attached to the collette puller but it did not work at all pulling the bearing out.
SLIDE HAMMER ATATCHED TO THE COLLET FROM THE KIT.jpg


Had to get creative with the jaw puller and what was available to make the puller work

THE STACK UP THAT ALLOWED THE PULLER TO WORK.jpg


Had to keep tweaking everything to get the bearing to start to move. It is hard to tell but the end of the bearing is above the end of the shaft.
PULLER USED TO PULL THE COLLETTE TO REMOVE THE NEEDLE BEARING.jpg
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2021
Messages
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Location
Riverton, Wyoming
Today was parts cleaning and running to town to get a 4.5 inch grinder batteries, boom box and a charger. Everything was separate.

Cleaned the input, and PTO gear and set aside, Then the cleaned the hi lo gears and output shaft parts.

I was cleaning the exterior of the transfer case with the grinder and it had been sitting outside most of the day in the sun and when I flipped it over the idler gear fell right out. So they can come out. It is soaking in the solvent now.
 

merbesfield

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 28, 2005
Messages
3,262
Location
Atlanta, GA
Today was parts cleaning and running to town to get a 4.5 inch grinder batteries, boom box and a charger. Everything was separate.

Cleaned the input, and PTO gear and set aside, Then the cleaned the hi lo gears and output shaft parts.

I was cleaning the exterior of the transfer case with the grinder and it had been sitting outside most of the day in the sun and when I flipped it over the idler gear fell right out. So they can come out. It is soaking in the solvent now.
I can't believe the idler gear fell right out after giving you fits.
 

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