- Thread starter
- #261
Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter watrob
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
Have just these few chassis parts to assemble and I can start on the front knuckle & rear axle builds.
- Thread starter
- #263
Front e-locker diff ready to be bolted in.
Rear Lokka also ready.
Rear Lokka also ready.
chappohj47
Chappo Built
Nice progress mate good work
I found this on gumtree and its close by if you need another project. Bargain
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noos...ndcruiser-fibre-glass-coil-cab-ute/1042783936
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/noos...ndcruiser-fibre-glass-coil-cab-ute/1042783936
- Thread starter
- #266
That's an interesting build but the trouble with 45's is there is no rear seats, a dual cab 45 would be good, that's why I went 43. But it is a nice build so far, I see leaf spring rear though. The price of $6,500 is not far off the mark but you would need another $25k+ to finish it. Although not a major point but 78 series gear is harder to find for suspension parts etc (I know a lot 0f 80 & 60 series will fit) and I am not all that keen on having the steering box protruding that far in front either.
- Thread starter
- #268
Yes your right, he needs to buy this, its the extension for rear doors which will be the killer and I think with changes in Qld rules that
there maybe a problem, I think that's why a couple of these builds have been abandoned.
A dual cab fibreglass 45 diesel with gal chassis would be a good build and a keeper, the problem is $5k will buy you a early model dual cab diesel Hilux, why re-invent the wheel. The only reason I am going to so much trouble is because of the beach, I cannot have metal, even my radiator is brass, well I could have metal it just I don't want to rebuild it every 3 years?
I got 7 years out of the current chassis (gal) which is fine, the only thing that has let me down are leaf springs, shackles, steel shocks, bulbar and showing signs of rust are battery tray, radiator surround and rear bench seat internals (have a spare seat and its been striped and sent to be gal'd).
Now you could just replace these parts and that's say $1,500 every few years, but since my 2H is not up to it, and really want a 5 speed, get rid of the leafs, gal everything that bolts on even including the bulbar, replace leafs with springs as they are cheaper to buy, easier to install and more comfortable to ride in, I am down to just buying new front bucket seat every 5 years or so.
I am in the process of designing a under carriage tray to protect the underside of the engine from the radiator back past the gearbox (like current modern vehicles have) out of 316 stainless steel plate. Have ordered the tubing for the 3" 316 stainless steel exhaust, couple 90 deg bends $28.00 each, couple 45 deg bends $27.00 each and 3 metres of 3" 316 SS tube at $26.50 per metre, that's about $200 for a SS 3" exhaust plus welding.
I have to use a 304 SS muffler as its not worth trying build one out of 316.
Hopefully this will keep me out trouble for a while?
coming along nicely. Must be nice to almost have a rolling chassis again
That looks really good with the chassis all painted. What paint did you use to do it as at some stage I will also be painting my chassis and suspension bits.
I won't be going down the galvanised route as it will see mainly mud and not too much beach work. Hopefully cab off for my project this week, then diffs out and away.
I won't be going down the galvanised route as it will see mainly mud and not too much beach work. Hopefully cab off for my project this week, then diffs out and away.
This really is a magnificent build Watorb. Attention to detail is amazing.
I mounted my 12ht the same way you did, but had to move the H55f and cross member forward 25mm on the chassis. Had me puzzled for a while why it wasn't a direct bolt in. I thought the H block/H55f combo was factory in some later HJ47s ??
Anyway, its in now, and I love it. Even at stock boost (7psi) it is super torquey. I always take off in second gear now. You will love the grunty sound and turbo whine.
Looking forward to seeing how your suspension setup rides. I put complete new EFS suspension and shocks in which is great, but still stiff as sh*t. But I guess that's a '40.
Keep up the great work.
I mounted my 12ht the same way you did, but had to move the H55f and cross member forward 25mm on the chassis. Had me puzzled for a while why it wasn't a direct bolt in. I thought the H block/H55f combo was factory in some later HJ47s ??
Anyway, its in now, and I love it. Even at stock boost (7psi) it is super torquey. I always take off in second gear now. You will love the grunty sound and turbo whine.
Looking forward to seeing how your suspension setup rides. I put complete new EFS suspension and shocks in which is great, but still stiff as sh*t. But I guess that's a '40.
Keep up the great work.
- Thread starter
- #272
I used a spray on etch primmer, a reasonable brand but the black gloss is just a cheap rattle can which I have used before (Super Cheap Auto). One it dulls down a little which is good but my main protection is the hot dip gal. The paint is really just to cover the gal silver colour, my previous chassis was gal dipped and I used the same method and the black gloss is till ok on that chassis.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Very Nice Build
I do like attention to detail.
Subscribed.
I do like attention to detail.
Subscribed.
- Thread starter
- #274
Hello Matt, your back, here you have been a little under the weather? just the person to ask. As you can see from my build, could you tell me on the rear, the top hat where the rear coil slips up into there is a rubber pad that sits on top on the spring/coil. Now in the FSM it shows a metal ring/plate (the same size as the rubber pad) sitting on top of the rubber pad.
Have spoken to few people and they stay there is NO metal ring that sits on top but Toyota say there is, they have stock. Would this be a plate/ring use to lift the rear say 10mm or be use to level the vehicle if a coil sagged? Is it a defacto lift kit? Or was it just used in other countries but not here.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I never left, just read a lot more than post. I needed a break
I have a nagging in the back of my mind it's for levelling but only found on right hand drive due to weight distribution been slightly different.
I could be wrong.
Best Regards Matt
I have a nagging in the back of my mind it's for levelling but only found on right hand drive due to weight distribution been slightly different.
I could be wrong.
Best Regards Matt
- Thread starter
- #276
Thanks Matt, also been told that some lift kits come with these spacers as well, just wasn't sure if they needed to be in there as a standard oem thing?
- Thread starter
- #277
Ok just bought a couple of these pads for the front coil springs.
When you do a search for that rear spring spacer (48373-60010) on toyodiy it seems to be installed in most coil sprung cruisers from 1990 to 2007. (link below)
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=G_1990_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_HDJ80L-GNPEX_4804&s=4837360010
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=G_1990_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_HDJ80L-GNPEX_4804&s=4837360010
here is also a diagram showing the ring on an 80 series
- Thread starter
- #280
I have spoken to a couple people today and that spacer is not standard on the 80 series rear, its used mainly as a leveller if required, Toyota have them and they are $105 each. I am picking up tomorrow two 5mm neoprene pads for the rear ($7.50 each), not going to use the rubber oem pads.
