Hi everyone, I recently imported a 1992 HDJ 81, and I absolutely adore it. However, during the winter, the rear tires keep spinning whenever I encounter ice or any slippery snow. Initially, I thought the idle was too high (1100 rpm), but when I checked the cable, it was loose. I replaced the rear brake pads, but that didn’t seem to fix the problem. I plan to convert to the 93 brakes this summer for simplicity, but I would really like to drive this car sometimes in the winter. I don’t want to have to put it in neutral every time I need to stop because there’s a layer of compact snow on the ground. Any guidance would be amazing.
Rear tires keep spinning on slippery surfaces
- Thread starter R3X
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The problem you show seems to be an issue driving forward, but you're talking about brakes... or are you trying to stop there, and the brakes aren't grabbing the rear end? If it's the last, is that a drum brake rear end? If so, the drums are probably WAY out of adjustment, because they don't seem to be doing anything.
I'm not expert on the drum brake 80, but I know many other drum brake Toyotas have a self adjusting sort of ratchet mechanism for the rear brake shoes that won't adjust if the previous owner never used their e-brake. I've forcibly adjusted these before by rolling backward on a hill and grabbing the e-brake - careful when doing this, because the e-brake may not do ANYTHING to slow the vehicle at first if they're this far out of adjustment. This is just me riffing off memory though, what you should DEFINITELY do is go to the resources section and download the Factory Service Manual for your year.
I'm not expert on the drum brake 80, but I know many other drum brake Toyotas have a self adjusting sort of ratchet mechanism for the rear brake shoes that won't adjust if the previous owner never used their e-brake. I've forcibly adjusted these before by rolling backward on a hill and grabbing the e-brake - careful when doing this, because the e-brake may not do ANYTHING to slow the vehicle at first if they're this far out of adjustment. This is just me riffing off memory though, what you should DEFINITELY do is go to the resources section and download the Factory Service Manual for your year.
Ah, well there goes my "top of the head" idea. Seriously, go grab the FSM and start there because if I'm understanding correctly, your rear is not stopping at all. Next guess is that your rear calipers are in desperate need of service, or it could be that the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) is not working properly.
Edit: I assume this isn't ABS?
Edit: I assume this isn't ABS?
- Thread starter
- #5
You corrected this is not an ABS model. I’ll go look to the full service manual though and see if I can find anything. I’ll look into the LSPV but I’m really just thinking like you said it’s the calipers are needing service. Thank you for the help though. Greatly appreciate it.
So I understand correctly, from the video while on ice you are applying the brakes and the rear just keeps spinning? Is it both rear or just the passenger side? What happens when you engage the emergency brake? Have you tried locking the center diff and seeing if there is any change? I also second checking through the FSM (download it from resources section) and verifying your brakes are working properly).
You say the rears are disc, must be a late 92 model, and a cheap, fast(ish) check is to pull the slider pins and ensure they are greased and the caliper moves freely.
A side note, if your fronts are locked and you are still moving forward then the "ice" or compact snow as you referred is worse than you may think. The front brakes should stop the truck under normal operation.
You say the rears are disc, must be a late 92 model, and a cheap, fast(ish) check is to pull the slider pins and ensure they are greased and the caliper moves freely.
A side note, if your fronts are locked and you are still moving forward then the "ice" or compact snow as you referred is worse than you may think. The front brakes should stop the truck under normal operation.
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- Thread starter
- #7
To answer your questions in chronological order—and just to put it out there—it is a JDM import.
Yes, when I apply the brakes, the rear tire just keeps spinning. I believe it is only the right side (driver side). I can’t remember with absolute certainty, but it pulls to the right, so I am fairly confident it is the right side.
I have not tried engaging the e-brake or the center diff lock yet; I will try those tomorrow. I had to shift it into neutral to get it to stop.
The rear brakes are disc, but it is an “early model.” It was manufactured in 07/1992, and I believe the switch to the larger brakes occurred in 08/1992.
I will try what you suggested with the slider pins tomorrow. I also thought the front brakes should be enough to stop it, but they are just pushing it. You can see in the GIF that it is leaving a small trail behind the front tire.
@R3X ,
From my perspective the first thing you need to address is the high idle. Even with well performing brakes a diesel has enough torque @ 1100 to drive through. Once that gets addressed then go onto the brakes.
From my perspective the first thing you need to address is the high idle. Even with well performing brakes a diesel has enough torque @ 1100 to drive through. Once that gets addressed then go onto the brakes.
@R3X
Which differential type does your non-USA spec 80 Series have
:
K292 (open)
K294 (lockers)
K295 (limited slip)
Which transfer case does it have :
HF1A (part time without viscous coupler)
HF2A (full time without viscous coupler)
HF2AV (full time with viscous coupler)
You can check your VIN plate/sticker for the Frame code (example HDJ81V‑XXXXX) and the differential code (K292, K294, K295)
Post up what you find here:
Which differential type does your non-USA spec 80 Series have
:
K292 (open)
K294 (lockers)
K295 (limited slip)
Which transfer case does it have :
HF1A (part time without viscous coupler)
HF2A (full time without viscous coupler)
HF2AV (full time with viscous coupler)
You can check your VIN plate/sticker for the Frame code (example HDJ81V‑XXXXX) and the differential code (K292, K294, K295)
Post up what you find here:
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turn down the idle, if its an auto usually the linkage that goes to the auto trans cable hanging things open if the main throttle cable from the cruise is already slack. somebody may have turned up the main fuel screw without turning the idle back down too. securely lift up all four wheels off the ground, drive at slow speed and have a helper very slowly apply the brakes. each wheel should all stop at about the same time. stuck calipers or collapsed brake hoses would not be uncommon at this age if they haven't been replaced.
It looks like you have a lifted suspension. If you have a lift you have to set the lspv pressure for the new ride height.
good point, make sure you put the jack stands on the axle when doing your brake test with the wheels up in the air so that the LSPV is in the correct position.
When my TPS went bad, my idle was 1600 to 2100 rpm and it was difficult to stop the Cruiser. Your engine is essentially powering through the brakes, however the brakes need some love. I hate the LSPV and the easiest fix to restore rear braking power that the LSPV saps is to remove the rod from the axle and push it to the highest possible position. This sends more power to the rear brakes.
FWIW those tires suck on ice. Lower pressure will help improve traction a bit.