Rear Sway Bar Link on 2.5" OME Lift 80 Series Question (2 Viewers)

[djzimms]

Thanks for the order

Thanks, received the links, they look great! I've got the rear end of the truck lifted and ready to install. I'm not familiar with the lower portion of the unit in terms of the pin provided and any special concerns on installation. Do you have any video or detailed description of installation to ensure I do it properly? Also, I'm assuming the bushing should be greased...does white grease work fine? It's what I have around...or should I find a different greasing agent?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks, received the links, they look great! I've got the rear end of the truck lifted and ready to install. I'm not familiar with the lower portion of the unit in terms of the pin provided and any special concerns on installation. Do you have any video or detailed description of installation to ensure I do it properly? Also, I'm assuming the bushing should be greased...does white grease work fine? It's what I have around...or should I find a different greasing agent?

We use a silicone based grease for the bushings. For the pin, you can use that style (which Toyota used for many years) or discard and use your original bolt, same OD dimensions. If using that bolt, torque to 18 ft-lbs? (I'm not at the shop near an FSM) and use the cotter just as you would a TRE, etc to retain the nut. Let me know if you need any clarity and I can get some more info.

 

[djzimms]

We use a silicone based grease for the bushings. For the pin, you can use that style (which Toyota used for many years) or discard and use your original bolt, same OD dimensions. If using that bolt, torque to 18 ft-lbs? (I'm not at the shop near an FSM) and use the cotter just as you would a TRE, etc to retain the nut. Let me know if you need any clarity and I can get some more info.

Yeah, sorry, I don't have much in terms of experience working on vehicles, figuring out as I go along, so as you say "cotter just as you would a TRE" means nothing to me =). Any info/instructions you can provide would be a great help. Perhaps the original bolt is the best option for a novice?

 

[djzimms]

We use a silicone based grease for the bushings. For the pin, you can use that style (which Toyota used for many years) or discard and use your original bolt, same OD dimensions. If using that bolt, torque to 18 ft-lbs? (I'm not at the shop near an FSM) and use the cotter just as you would a TRE, etc to retain the nut. Let me know if you need any clarity and I can get some more info.

Or youtube video examples. That's best for myself.

 

[Tools R Us]

Agree, we use silicone grease, sometimes sold as brake or dielectric grease. But any will do, factory was installed dry, so other than making install slightly easier, doesn't matter. The upper nut is 11ft/lb, bracket to frame 13ft/lb, lower bolt, link to bar is 19ft/lb.

 

[Tools R Us]

On the link, it's one of the heavy washers (should be 4) a bushing, a centering washer (should be 2), the frame bracket, another bushing, then another heavy washer and the nut. Just like the stack in Kurt's pic above. The lower bushing goes through the hole in the sway bar, the tubular spacer through that, the link slides over and the bolt holds it together. If using the new bolt, after everything is done, can put the cotter pin through the hole and spread the end, this is only a fail safe, if the nut were to come loose, it wouldn't fall off.

 

[Tools R Us]

put the cotter pin through the hole and spread the end ...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks Kevin!

If that doesn't clear things up I can snap a picture under a vehicle in the morning.

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks Kevin!

If that doesn't clear things up I can snap a picture under a vehicle in the morning.

Or refer to the pix in post #3?

 

[djzimms]

Or refer to the pix in post #3?

Thanks! Got it installed.

 

[amay3]

to late to hock my stuff I guess.

Hey Richard,
Quick chance to hock your stuff.
I have a '95 with the OME 2.5" heavy lift. OME castor correction bushings resulted in exactly '0' degree castor. Using the Landtank (your) method I measure exactly 2.5" of lift.
I have ordered your 2.5 castor plates from Joey, and asked him about the utility of adding your rear sway bar links. Joey replied that for my lift, I would need the extended links, and then cut them down 1" to get them where they need to be. Can you describe this procedure? I am planning to add a HD Whiteline rear sway bar at the same time. Many thanks!

 

[landtank]

My links use a tube with a 3/8" center hole. The extended link is designed with a 2" drop over a stock length rear link.

The bushing at the end are held in place with a 3/8" bolt that is 7" long. This bolt passes through the tube ftom the bottom.

So if you wanted to customize my link for a lower height you would cut off some of the tube and then buy the appropriate bolt from the hardware store.

Cut off an inch buy a bolt 6" long
Cut off a half inch buy a bolt 6 1/2" long

Just make sure a bolt is available to match what you are shortening the link by.

 

[amay3]

My links use a tube with a 3/8" center hole. The extended link is designed with a 2" drop over a stock length rear link.
The bushing at the end are held in place with a 3/8" bolt that is 7" long. This bolt passes through the tube ftom the bottom.
So if you wanted to customize my link for a lower height you would cut off some of the tube and then buy the appropriate bolt from the hardware store.
Cut off an inch buy a bolt 6" long. Cut off a half inch buy a bolt 6 1/2" long. Just make sure a bolt is available to match what you are shortening the link by.

Thanks. Very useful information. The picture of the extension does not make its construction w/removable bolt clear.
The Wits' End description of the Standard Rear Swaybar Link says, "Designed to replace the existing stock rear links, or an additional upgrade for lift systems up to 2.5". I am right at 2.5". Would the stock length rear links be more appropriate for my set-up? (Joey, brother, not that I don't trust you, just checking with the Design Engineer).

 

[landtank]

Using the extended version as is would place the swaybar close to the factory position but also be more likely to contact rocks and such when offroading. The stock length would be at its max at 2 1/2 inches in my opinion. Its really up to you. But its a lot easier to shorten the extended one than to stretch the stock one.

 

[BullRunOverland]

In stock??

SUS60090AFT - $17.50/each

 

[COYS]

I'm looking at combining stock length landtank rear sway bar links with the dobinsons bracket in anticipation of adding the whiteline rear sway bar.

Based on my limited research, this looks to be the least invasive way to accommodate the thicker aftermarket rear sway bar. No modification of the frame. Retains factory style rubber bushings design. No rose joints. No grinding down of whiteline's squared ends to fit the closed end of the stock link.

Am I missing anything here? TIA