rear storage boxes (3 Viewers)

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drawer wings (flaps)

The flaps are hinged and therefore have support by the hinges (3 1x3" SS hinges). They also rest on the side piece I used in the very front of the drawer (closest to the tailgate). For support in the rear, I screwed a block of wood down right where the rear seat attachment bars used to reside. I'll try and post close-up pics tonight ;) They may not support Oprah, but they will hold an Engel fridge :cool:
 
Hell, Oprah can support me. I'd bounce all over that, jugedy jugedy jugedy.

Buck
 
I am planning on building a box/drawer system in back with the addition of something going over the back seats (when folded down) making a bed platform. In my case though, I want something that can go in and out of the truck fairly easily. For those of you who have built these, do have any suggestions on what to/or what not to do in order to make them easily removeable?

C-Dan, I like the simplicity of having those Rubbermaid containers under there. I assume you have a piano hinge on the back panel that flips up to allow access inside? Also assuming a center support allowing the fit of two containers side by side?

Lastly, I am also interested in mounting an inverter at the same time. The only times I can see using the inverter would be the same times I have the box in (camping and wheeling). Would there be any advantage to building the inverter into the box, running power back there with quick disconnects so it could come out with the box?

:cheers:
 
I have two questions on building the boxes. First, how are you joining the corners together? Wood glue, wood glue and wood screws, angle brackets? Second, how are you anchoring the boxes to the seat brackets? Are you removing the mounting bolts of the seat brackets and using longer bolts to attach the box or are you somehow attaching the box directly to the seat brackets somehow?
 
Mine is rabbit joints with wood glue and grabber screws. The center divider is a dado cut and is screwed and glued. It bolts to the floor with the 4 outermost third row striker plate holes. I removed the strikers and taped over the inner holes. I marked the holes by positioning the box and crawling under the vehicle and marking from under the vehicle, through the captive nuts.

D-
 
Glued and screwed. I've 'temp mounted' (for 3 years) mine with u bolts on the striker plates. My next version (welded aluminum) will secure with the bolts, once I finish designing it.

Cheers, Hugh
 
Mine was also "Glued & Screwed" There is no creaking sound when loaded up and no movement, it should last forever!


As far as attachment to the cruiser, I used "L" brackets from Home Depot and 2 on the rear side that line right up to the factory threads that held the tie down hooks to the floor. I also added one on each side near the front (drawer opening) that I bolted through the floor. I had to drill through of course, using same method as C-Dan mentioned above.
 
CDN_Cruiser said:
My next version (welded aluminum) will secure with the bolts, once I finish designing it.

Cheers, Hugh

Only if Alum was a little less costly these days!!!! :D
 
cruiserdan said:
"rabbit joints" "dado cut" D-

I should have taken shop class in high school as I have no idea what a rabbit joint is and all i know about dado cuts is that it takes a dado blade to cut it. So I have a little research to do. "screw & glue" I understand.

Guess it's time to drive two hours and ask dear ol' dad how to use those carpentry tools. Hope he's not too busy in retirement.

Hey, at least I was able to do my own front axle rebuild.
 
Heffenoche said:
I should have taken shop class in high school as I have no idea what a rabbit joint is and all i know about dado cuts is that it takes a dado blade to cut it. So I have a little research to do. "screw & glue" I understand.

You need to catch a few episodes of Norm on the New Yankee Workshop :D
 
"You can never have too many clamps".




D-
 
its on the left at the top,
179.00 or 189.00 depending on the size. thats a lot of mdf and carpet if you have the time.
Dave
 
Thanks..your right, for that you can build a couple ofem.
 
Hi all,

I don't own a Land Cruiser, but I've been lurking for a while. Don't know much about Land Cruisers, but I do know a bit about woodworking and thought I'd throw in a comment.

MDF is pretty good stuff for painting and such since it has a smooth surface, but just remember a 3/4 inch thick, 4x8 sheet of that stuff can weigh 100 lb so you don't want to use any more than you have to. Paint all surfaces and keep the water away from it as well. A good sheet of hardwood plywood will be more money, but lighter, and a lot less likely to be damaged by a bit of water. Now back to lurk mode.

Alan
 
NorCalDoug said:
You need to catch a few episodes of Norm on the New Yankee Workshop :D

haha, whenever I hear the words "dado" or "rabbit joint" I think of Norm :D
 
FirstToy said:
haha, whenever I hear the words "dado" or "rabbit joint" I think of Norm :D
So...when are you gonna post pics of your storage box?

Pretty sweet set up.
 

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