Rear Sliding Window Repair (1 Viewer)

[Cruzerman]

I'm going to replace the rubbers on the rear sliding windows on my '95. However, while taking out the window, the spot weld for holding the frame together failed. I'm looking for suggestions on how to repair this. The frame is undamaged other than the failed spot weld. I have no way to weld aluminum. Is there any other way to repair this or should I seek out someone that can weld aluminum. It is pretty thin stuff.

My second question is about the vent covers next to these windows. The thin gasket around them is in pieces. It this essential? I don't think this is available by itself. If needed, can I use something like silicone or FIPG?

TIA

 

[jpoole]

I'm curious if you have any pictures showing the spot weld area and how much you have to work with for getting it back together.

I've had luck using 3m 5200 to glue together a modified aluminum window frame in a VW Westfalia when installing older jalousie windows in a newer model van. Those windows are still going strong 10 or more years later but that setup was really good for using an adhesive like 5200 and I'm not sure if it's a relevant idea for the 80 sliding windows.

 

[joxeale]

I'm going to replace the rubbers on the rear sliding windows on my '95. However, while taking out the window, the spot weld for holding the frame together failed. I'm looking for suggestions on how to repair this. The frame is undamaged other than the failed spot weld. I have no way to weld aluminum. Is there any other way to repair this or should I seek out someone that can weld aluminum. It is pretty thin stuff.

My second question is about the vent covers next to these windows. The thin gasket around them is in pieces. It this essential? I don't think this is available by itself. If needed, can I use something like silicone or FIPG?

TIA

I plan on tackling this soon too as mine leaks. For what i've investigated here, if you have leaks, it'd likely be a combination of the black outer moulding clips leaking into the cab OR(AND) the black gasket of the rear Louvers. The solution (at least what i've found) is that people just silicone both the moulding clips and the vent (no gasket just silicone). The silicone can't have a certain chemical because it can be corrosive (it smells like vinegar), forgot the name of the chemical. Hope it helps

 

[fjbj40]

Use structural adhesive if you can’t weld.
You can buy body panel adhesives(same thing) in different curing times. Don’t get one that sets in 15 minutes though! Way to fast

 

[White Stripe]

Drop them by a welding shop and have it tack welded, or get a good used frame. I'm almost sure you can get the vent rubber flap new still. It allows for excess cabin pressure to be vented out.

 

[Cruzerman]

It isn't the rubber flaps, but the thin gasket the goes around the plastic cover that is messed up. I'm just not sure if it is there to keep water out or vibration dampening.

 

[jpoole]

@Cruzerman For that thin black gasket that goes around the outside of the vent piece I was able to get mine back into shape and then superglue it on so that it stayed/stays in place. It has shrunk a bit over time so there it doesn't reach all the way down as I recall but this approach worked well for keeping that piece, which I consider more trim than seal, in place.

It's been a few years but as I roughly recall that outer connection point doesn't need to be sealed it's instead the inner conn. of the vents to the truck that are below the visible cover that need to be sealed. I think I used a quality butyl tape to seal mine but I don't think I have pics or anything. I do know that they were leaking and are not leaking now.

I fixed all leaks and then drove without carpet for over a year to monitor for any remaining leaks as the small ones were hard to spot when they just ran into the carpet/underlayment. Testing with a water-hose after the repairs was all that I really needed for most of the leaks though as only one leak showed up after doing that and repairing what I found with the hose.