Rear Power Outlets: Plan and Questions

[Idaho Savage]

Sorry gang, but I generally hate electrical work so here goes. Use case is lots of remote high desert outings for hunting, camping, etc. Not the sort of place you want a dead vehicle. 96 LX450.

My goals:

Cargo and rear bumper: Provide power for a blue sea USB outlet in the cargo area (2 or 4 outlets) for charging stuff like dog collars, headlamps, etc,; as well as power for a Dometic fridge. On top of this, I'd like to run power for a pair of reverse lights from Baja Designs that will be in the rear bumper.

Middle Console: Provide power to a dual USB outlet for phones, GPS, etc. Also run power for Midland GMRS.

Dashboard: Add a double USB outlet on the dash.

Plan:

1. Run heavy gauge wire (what exactly?) from battery to 100 amp fuse and cutoff switch (in engine bay) back to blue sea fuse block in cargo area to USB outlets for general charging and to reverse lights.

2. Run wire from battery to blue sea fuse block in engine bay. Run wire from there to dash charger, GMRS radio and center console chargers. So front accessories would have one fuse block, those in rear cargo area would be on a separate block that could be turned off during long garage sits, etc.

Question 1: Should I run wire from above cargo area blue sea block to fridge, OR should I run separate dedicated fuse and wire for fridge all the way from the battery? Either way, it'll terminate in a separate, dedicated 12v outlet for fridge.

Question 2: Does all of this necessitate a second battery and/or high output alternator? Looking at build threads, this seems to vary.

Any help is much appreciated.

Gratuitous pic of Nemo (my 96 LX450) and Samantha, my 2017 Wirehaired Pointing Griffon along with dead chukar birds and a pronghorn deadhead.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Here's this bit of your puzzle.

12 Volt - Amps Amps vs. Wire Gauge: Choosing the Right Wire Size

Maximum current (amps) in a 12V electrical circuit vs. size (AWG) and length of wire.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

this one shows 100A.

Wire Gauge Guide - Quick Reference - Support Center

| Wire Gauge Guide - Quick Reference - Support Center

www.lumiteclighting.com

And Tractor Supply sells #2 cable by the foot.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-2-flexible-welding-cable-3843601?store=104&cid=Google-Shopping&utm_medium=Google&utm_source=Shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0t63BhAUEiwA5xP54V8hpp5ROY3if5wTIZZAI83_kliTvmgDVDkSEsZFhC644vpR7xU4MBoCMiIQAvD_BwE

Please fuse directly off the battery, I would hate to see your truck go up in a bright blue arc.

 

[Idaho Savage]

Here's this bit of your puzzle.

12 Volt - Amps Amps vs. Wire Gauge: Choosing the Right Wire Size

Maximum current (amps) in a 12V electrical circuit vs. size (AWG) and length of wire.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

this one shows 100A.

Wire Gauge Guide - Quick Reference - Support Center

| Wire Gauge Guide - Quick Reference - Support Center

www.lumiteclighting.com

And Tractor Supply sells #2 cable by the foot.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-2-flexible-welding-cable-3843601?store=104&cid=Google-Shopping&utm_medium=Google&utm_source=Shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0t63BhAUEiwA5xP54V8hpp5ROY3if5wTIZZAI83_kliTvmgDVDkSEsZFhC644vpR7xU4MBoCMiIQAvD_BwE

Please fuse directly off the battery, I would hate to see your truck go up in a bright blue arc.

Thank you. That guide has now been bookmarked!

So it sounds prudent to fuse off the battery, even in route to a fuse box at the rear of the truck.

 

[tromz]

so I just recently did all of that . I used the dual battery kit from Hudd Expo. 1993-97 80 Series Land Cruiser Dual Battery Kit - Big Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1993-97-80-series-land-cruiser-dual-battery-kit-big-kit/
If you want solar you are gonna need a controller or dc/dc charger with input. But the kit gives you pre measured and pre bent cables. to make it all happen for dual battery off the alternator. Youl will need the early 91 year battery box and bits. as well as a hold down. I wanted to be able to self jump . You also need to have a tender if you go AGM . If ya go lithium then go a different route. You could do an eco flow portable system.
After all the battery bits. I mounted a (100 amp I think) circuit breaker to the firewall coming off the second battery. So if breaker is off or tripped there is zero additional power to the inside. I ran cable down the rocker to a blue sea distribution block mounted to my drawer system. Then from there to blue sea fuse box and another fuse box at center console. I ran the one on the console through the first to reduce the amperage. I swapped out the coin holders with usb plugs . prob gonna swap again to usbc on one. From the fuse box to the rear quarter panel covers for blue sea voltmeter combo outlet. I used the dometic screw down plug for the fridge available from dometic. The rocker isolation switch went in for the batteries in front of the shifter. All of these switches and plugs i cut out to fit with a dremel tool as my panels and such were not cherry perfect any longer. I did have some voltage drop initially to the cargo area causing the fridge to power off to quickly. I solved it by multi point battery terminals and also why i went to the secure dometic plug instead of the cig lighter version. A shorter run to the fridge circuit would be advised if possible. There are several write ups as to wire gauges volts and amps to reference. Also blue sea has some info
Hope all that helps..

 

[OffRoadScott]

Having a 2nd battery is always a great option. When I did the wiring for mine I followed this diagram. To finish off my install I am going to be running 4 gauge to the back off the 2nd battery. I have a 150 AMP breaker installed on top of the cruise control cover. Then I will run the wire along the passenger floor board to the back where I will have my "unnamed 1/4 panel mount" at.

Neither of these are my setup but I will have something similar to the first one less the solar control. If I do a solar option it will be mounted on the hood of the LC where the wiring will be shorter and directly to the AUX battery. I have a 6 fuse setup from Blue Sea vice the 12 fuse in this picture. I do plan on running an inverter from RedArc minimum of 1000w since I have a C-pap machine and need to for a safe nights sleep.

The 1/4 panel mount is now available from @Delta VS as is the 12 fuse setup in the 1st picture.

This is where I installed the switch for the Blue Sea ML-ACR.

The HuddExpo kit that @tromz mentioned is a well thought out kit. The only other one I have seen that is better is the SDHQ kit for the 5th Gen 4Runner, but they want $1200. But the cables are all marked and cut to length, has 2nd battery tray, and does come with the Blue Sea ML-ACR.

SDHQ 5th Gen 4Runner Kit

Make sure you run batteries of the same group size. It has been said that if you do not the batteries will not charge properly. In my setup I run a 34R as my starting battery and a deep cycle 34M. The "R" is for reverse post and "M" is a Marine battery. It does have automotive and marine "screw" terminals too.

Also, @Delta VS has a great diagram as well available on their site. Check link below:

Delta VS wiring diagram

 

[Idaho Savage]

Thank you so much for taking the time, dudes. That HUD setup looks nice and simple and also covers all my bases, as I'm not adding solar anytime soon. I, too, will throw in a breaker right after the batteries before running back to the truck. I'll likely thrown in a fuse on that line as well.

@tromz if I read you correctly, you get a lower amp drop by going back to the cargo area, then running forward to the center console? And, it sounds like you ran the Dometic off the BS distribution block, correct?

Do either of you use a HO alternator?

Thanks so much, guys. Super helpful.

 

[smritte]

Use the high output blue sea usb ports. Huge difference if your charging something with a high capacity. They come in round and rectangle.

As to your question about higher output alternators, Find a hairpin wound alternator. A few places are making direct bolt ins to our vehicles. When I got mine, I had to convert to a tundra alternator. The advantage is full power at low rpm. This is how all the modern alternators are wound. I like them because I may be camping in one spot for several days and I get full out put chugging along the dirt road out.

 

[tromz]

Thank you so much for taking the time, dudes. That HUD setup looks nice and simple and also covers all my bases, as I'm not adding solar anytime soon. I, too, will throw in a breaker right after the batteries before running back to the truck. I'll likely thrown in a fuse on that line as well.

@tromz if I read you correctly, you get a lower amp drop by going back to the cargo area, then running forward to the center console? And, it sounds like you ran the Dometic off the BS distribution block, correct?

Do either of you use a HO alternator?

Thanks so much, guys. Super helpful.

So I ran the fridge power at the back. If you can get it closer to the source it would be better. It’s on my to do list to change it. What I has said is I put a fuse box next to the distribution block. I fused the hot wire going to the console fuse box through the first fuse box which dropped the amps. As nothing I will run there will have a big draw. I think I used a 50a blade fuse. Also that lead went under things so I wanted it fused. And yes for the coin the hudd setup was simple and fit very well. It has the inline big fusible links between batteries n the latch as well. You can do it cheaper but with lots more labor and piece meal of components. It prob cost me $1500 total to run my setup with dual group 27 agm batteries. I do have a tender I plug in every so often to maintain them. I also have easy access to add just about anything electrical to the rig.Via either one of the two fuse boxes or the dist block

 

[tromz]

So I ran the fridge power at the back. If you can get it closer to the source it would be better. It’s on my to do list to change it. What I has said is I put a fuse box next to the distribution block. I fused the hot wire going to the console fuse box through the first fuse box which dropped the amps. As nothing I will run there will have a big draw. I think I used a 50a blade fuse. Also that lead went under things so I wanted it fused. And yes for the coin the hudd setup was simple and fit very well. It has the inline big fusible links between batteries n the latch as well. You can do it cheaper but with lots more labor and piece meal of components. It prob cost me $1500 total to run my setup with dual group 27 agm batteries. I do have a tender I plug in every so often to maintain them. I also have easy access to add just about anything electrical to the rig.Via either one of the two fuse boxes or the dist block

Also the fridge has usb ports

 

[greentruck]

Might have some ideas that can be gleaned from my recent work on my 1996 L 450 in this thread which needs to be updated:
From Misfortune to Light of a New Day: Setting Up the Replacement Truck - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/from-misfortune-to-light-of-a-new-day-setting-up-the-replacement-truck.1326951/