Rear Leaf Spring replace before trip to Estes Park (1 Viewer)

[thewadejack]

Alright my 2 brothers and I are taking the cruiser on its first road trip from Austin Texas to Estes park. Planning on a Lubbock Pit stop slash rest for Cruiser just to be safe.
The back end of my cruiser sits lower than the front currently due to the SBC swap lost weight and possibly newer springs.
I have just bought Rear 2" replacement leaf springs in the Heavy load configuration, as well as bushings and U-bolts. The current suspension is an OME kit so i figured I could just do the springs and not worry. I have all the tools required but I still have never done the leaf springs on any vehicle before. Any tips for a first timer?

I've attached a photo showing how much this thing sags. I'm doing this now cause my brothers and camp gear was not in the truck when this photo was taken as you can imagine.

 

[mattressking]

PB blast all bolts a few days prior. Have a heatgun/torch available for heating shackles/spring pins if they are stuck in the rubber.

For removing the rubber bushings, try PB blaster and rotating with large pliers. I had luck and was able to remove every bushing without cutting this way.

If you're picky like me, remove all the shipping stickers/barcodes prior so you can just focus on installing. Make sure to have 4 or 6 jack stands to support truck and axle when everything is removed. If you can, grab new spring isolators for rear if your truck as them. You can tell by looking at the rear leaft back where it mounts to spring plate and if there is rubber surrounding the leaf back, replace. If you don't then you should have the leaf spring bushing from OME to fit the leaf into spring plate.

Everything else is easily followed in the FSM for torque specs.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

You might want to look into new shocks as well. It helps with the ride!

 

[SteveH]

I have all the tools required but I still have never done the leaf springs on any vehicle before. Any tips for a first timer?

You may need big pry bars or a comealong to pull the axle into place to line up with the spring pack. You will also have to lower the exhaust system (if stock) to gain access to the left rear shackle. Plan to get an upper body workout, but it won't kill you or be impossible.

 

[60Works]

PB blast all bolts a few days prior. Have a heatgun/torch available for heating shackles/spring pins if they are stuck in the rubber.

For removing the rubber bushings, try PB blaster and rotating with large pliers. I had luck and was able to remove every bushing without cutting this way.

If you're picky like me, remove all the shipping stickers/barcodes prior so you can just focus on installing. Make sure to have 4 or 6 jack stands to support truck and axle when everything is removed. If you can, grab new spring isolators for rear if your truck as them. You can tell by looking at the rear leaft back where it mounts to spring plate and if there is rubber surrounding the leaf back, replace. If you don't then you should have the leaf spring bushing from OME to fit the leaf into spring plate.

Everything else is easily followed in the FSM for torque specs.

MK is correct that a bushing is required to replace the rubber isolator but under no circumstances should you use the isolator with an OME spring!

The isolator only works with OEM thickness springs because the hat channel is sized to protect it from being squeezed too thin. The isolator and hat channel should be discarded and only the replacement bushing used.

This has been covered in numerous threads. Search is your friend.

Since you're replacing existing OME springs, the correct bushing is probably already installed.