Rear Heavy Duty Swaybar owners got links that last? (3 Viewers)

[lumbee1]

My passenger side heim joint appears to be worn out.

I've been chasing a suspension noise for a few weeks now and found that the heim joint center on my passenger side is very loose. I thought the whiteline swaybar bushings needed additional lubrication however when I removed the rear swaybar mounts it was clear the noise was coming from the passenger side heim joint.

When the endlink moves, the spherical center rubs inside the joint and causes a loud squeak. I added grease to the joint (as best as possible) which made the noise go away but this feels like a temporary fix. The drivers side heim joint is stiff and doesn't make any sound. I've had the swaybar endlinks installed for about 10K miles unfortunately with a lot of those miles on the road.



Hoping @LandCruiserPhil can help here.

 

[CJK]

Whiteline rear bar + these links is a massive upgrade. I just drove 150 miles on winding roads around Tahoe area and appreciated the difference.

I did have an issue with the 1/2-20 threads on the tube not being fully cut. I was able to run a tap thru to clear it out excess material but it would have been nice to just install out of the box.

One question:
How tight should double shear joints bolts be? Am I just looking for no lateral slack of the heim on the bolt?

I used the ol torque spec of “guten-tight”

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

My passenger side heim joint appears to be worn out.

I've been chasing a suspension noise for a few weeks now and found that the heim joint center on my passenger side is very loose. I thought the whiteline swaybar bushings needed additional lubrication however when I removed the rear swaybar mounts it was clear the noise was coming from the passenger side heim joint.

When the endlink moves, the spherical center rubs inside the joint and causes a loud squeak. I added grease to the joint (as best as possible) which made the noise go away but this feels like a temporary fix. The drivers side heim joint is stiff and doesn't make any sound. I've had the swaybar endlinks installed for about 10K miles unfortunately with a lot of those miles on the road.



Hoping @LandCruiserPhil can help here.

Because Im not on MUD regularly it would be best to email the website.

I contacted our heim supplier to see if we could upgrade and was told heim joints are serviceable parts. The joint we currently are using is overdesigned for our use. We will soon be offering replacement joints on our website soon.

If you feel your heim did not last as long as it should or feel there was a manufacturing defect send it back with a note.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Whiteline rear bar + these links is a massive upgrade. I just drove 150 miles on winding roads around Tahoe area and appreciated the difference.

I did have an issue with the 1/2-20 threads on the tube not being fully cut. I was able to run a tap thru to clear it out excess material but it would have been nice to just install out of the box.

One question:
How tight should double shear joints bolts be? Am I just looking for no lateral slack of the heim on the bolt?

I used the ol torque spec of “guten-tight”

Sorry, the swedge tube machine must of had a blip in the machining process. It just spits them out once programmed. This is a first but also realize anything can happen.
We feel we do everything for the highest quality control and with the goal of all of our products being 100% ready to install without issue. Our swedge tubes are custom-made for our use only. Our swedge tubes are racked not tumbled when zinc coated to keep them from being banged around. We hand screw in the left-hand threaded heim into the swedge tube. We have found a drop of oil on the threads can make threading easier and we will include a note in the upcoming installation instructions.


Max torque -
Bracket bolts 28lbs
Heim bolt 30lbs
Swaybar U bolt 50lbs

 

[CJK]

Sorry, the swedge tube machine must of had a blip in the machining process. It just spits them out once programmed. This is a first but also realize anything can happen.
We feel we do everything for the highest quality control and with the goal of all of our products being 100% ready to install without issue. Our swedge tubes are custom-made for our use only. Our swedge tubes are racked not tumbled when zinc coated to keep them from being banged around. We hand screw in the left-hand threaded heim into the swedge tube. We have found a drop of oil on the threads can make threading easier and we will include a note in the upcoming installation instructions.


Max torque -
Bracket bolts 28lbs
Heim bolt 30lbs
Swaybar U bolt 50lbs

All good from my side — I figured I'd alert you / post incase others from the same batch run into the issue.
I appreciate the goal of "100% ready to install without issue" of the LCP products. Less time in the garage = more time in nature.

Thanks for sharing torque specs.

I wrote out some tips that I sent to @alia176...feel free to use as a base for the upcoming installation instructions.

Tools:
12mm socket
14mm socket
14mm wrench
17mm socket
17mm wrench
3/4" wrench (for jam nuts)

Time-saving tips:
1. Identify whether or not you need the top nut before installing.
To do this, measure from the frame (between sway bar mounting holes) and the bottom of the lower control arm.
If the measurement > link length, keep the lower jam nut. Otherwise, remove the lower jam nut and tighten the tube to the threads on u-bracket

2. The Brake Hardline on the Driver side makes installation of the upper double shear bolt challenging/not possible. Recommended to install the bracket full assembled with the nut outboard.

3. Make sure the sway bar is loosened and use a jack or jack stand to support the end (near the link).

 

[CJK]

@LandCruiserPhil - “bracket” is ambiguous and might lead to an idiot torquing down the bolt that runs through the lower u-bracket.

I played the star idiot and can say for certain that the lower U-bracket bolt should not be torqued to 28 ft-lbs***

**EDIT: this here idiot forgot to insert the metal sleeve inside the sway bar bushing. Let this picture be a reason why you should install the sleeve and follow instructions / common sense.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

@LandCruiserPhil - “bracket” is ambiguous and might lead to an idiot torquing down the bolt that runs through the lower u-bracket.

I played the star idiot and can say for certain that the lower U-bracket bolt should not be torqued to 28 ft-lbs

View attachment 3507213

Check for the metal sleeve inside the bushing to keep the bracket from doing that.

 

[CJK]

Check for the metal sleeve inside the bushing to keep the bracket from doing that.

Thanks, i’ll pull the U-bracket off today to bend it back.
I definitely did not install that metal sleeve. My fault for not disassembling the Toyota one first to see that there was a metal sleeve (in retrospect…duhhh rubber and metal)

 

[alia176]

Chris is cracking me up.

 

[CJK]

Chris is cracking me up.

I’m glad I was more meticulous when bolting on the turbo otherwise I’d have the “Fred Flintstone” edition LC.

 

[Marvelicious]

I've yet to meet a person who isn't an idiot at least once in a while.