Rear heater with non-OEM AC?

[ginmtb]

Has anyone kept their rear heater operational with the installation of a non-OEM AC unit? The type of AC unit that requires the removal of the front heater (Old Air Hurricane - I think Vintage does the same).

Not that having additional heat is that critical in these vehicles in CA.

Just wondering if anyone has done this. Seems like the fan pull switch would need to stay installed and obviously the plumbing lines to the back. I don't plan on cutting the dash up so I'm not even sure if I have enough holes to handle all the extra controls (4) + keep the fan pull switch.

If you've done this would love to see photos. Thanks!

 

[troy scott]

i second this motion i have been wanting the same thing not because i want rid of my factory heat but the only option i have seen to keep it and have a.c. is the CCOT option and seems to me that only the passenger would feel the air blow from there unit

 

[ginmtb]

I found this in the instructions for the Vintage Air model. Not sure what an "EVAPOTOR" is lol.

Vintage uses the old fan pull switch (pull for AC, push for heat per their instructions). Old Air doesn't use the switch. This certainly helps with the plumbing arrangement.

 

[Jdc1]

I found this in the instructions for the Vintage Air model. Not sure what an "EVAPOTOR" is lol.

View attachment 1739875

View attachment 1739877

Vintage uses the old fan pull switch (pull for AC, push for heat per their instructions). Old Air doesn't use the switch. This certainly helps with the plumbing arrangement.

I havnt started the install on my VA Gen IV kit but it doesnt use the cables anymore. I will be following this thread to see what solutions people have come up with.

 

[ginmtb]

Old Air also has a non-cable option but I chose to go with old school cables for the simplicity...

 

[Rusty 72]

If I install A/C it will be the Old Air Products electronic CAP-2100. It looks more original in the factory location. Dash vent probably would go in the lower dash pads if possible. This would hide any cutting of the factory dash.

My switches would be,

Top row, Wiper-Heat valve if used-hazard-lighter

Bottom row, Mode-Fan front-Fan rear-Temp-Dash light switch.

No holes to drill in my 72 dash. Would try to use the 40 knobs if possible. Still not sure about using their heat valve, might be more of a pain to install than just using the factory valve on the head. The later 40's use a cable pull valve I can also use which I also have new in the package.

 

[ginmtb]

I'm trying to avoid cutting the dash, but if that doesn't bother you check out @lelandEOD 's AC setup. I love how he did the air vents in the pads. Looks super clean.

I'm thinking that the OEM valve and switch can still be used. Need to look at it a bit more closely. Using the factory pull switch would be a straight trade for the Old Air switch and would keep the nicer valve since OA's is plastic.

Speaking of plastic, any brass options out there for fittings? 5/8". Seems difficult to find them:

I know they're rated for heater usage in vehicles just would feel better about a brass fitting instead.

 

[ginmtb]

Hmm... seems like these could work!

 

[ginmtb]

Only rated to 160 degrees. Guess plastic it is.

 

[Rusty 72]

I guess a duct similar to the factory heater could be made and slipped over the 4 outlets. Might be able to just use the factory top with some sheet ABS and plastic welding. A skim coat of bondo and paint.

Hard to imagine the brass is only 160* and the plastic is rated higher.

 

[ginmtb]

I saw someone install that oem louver in the radio slot. Nice solution, unfortunately I have three gauges there. I'm going with one in the ashtray slot (a near perfect fit), one small one under the dash hidden to cool the legs, and then two smaller under dash ones like pictured below (pshop mockup). I have since moved my speakers. You can see more shots in my build thread near the end.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I think Keeping & Preserving as much of the original OEM side of the truck is the way to go

having the rear heater with the control valve shut OFF position would be great for folks Riding Jump Seats & and also when the occasional chilly night comes on

not to mention the upkeep in overall vehical value as well

The fan switch can be relocated if need be to a under dash style L bracket Like a Fog switch or throttle cables have


KEEP The Rear HEAT

 

[ginmtb]

I will be keeping everything - I learned after talking to the guru Dan at the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum that I shouldn't have sold my smog stuff (even if I never sell my cruiser). I was a newb what did I know? And everything I do is easily reversible back to stock. Well, maybe not easy, but reversible.

Okay, so I think this is going to work. Just need to understand if the fan pull switch will turn on the rear heater fan without the OEM front heater unit being in place - can someone confirm this? If so, this should work:

This effectively mirrors this (as posted above), with some slight modifications to fittings to accommodate the OEM heater control valve:

 

[Coolerman]

As long as you leave the OEM heater switch wired in, the rear heater fan will work on the second position.

 

[ginmtb]

Great news thanks @Coolerman!

I did some checking with the Old Air controls last night - turns out if I use the OEM heater valve switch that eliminates two switches. Only two switches are for the main unit fan (cold/hot) and the thermostat switch. I have two holes free that will work perfectly!

 

[ginmtb]

Looks like I’ll need to get some sort of reducer as the hard lines back to the rear heater are close to 1/2” vs 5/8”. Easy fix, just need to see how much distance between grommet and hard line. Can’t remember how long that hose is.

 

[ginmtb]

Okay, looks like these will do the trick to reduce from 5/8" to 1/2" which will allow the 5/8" fittings to tie to the 1/2" (13mm) OEM hard pipes that go to the rear heater. Will have to cut down slightly but not much.

Black Silicone Hose, 5/8 x 1/2 inch Straight Reducer - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

FYI - here are the specs for the brass elbows I found on McMaster. I thought maybe I read it wrong and it said 160 degrees C but no it is 160F.

 

[ginmtb]

Found heater specific 5/8" fittings at O'Reilly:

 

[White Stripe]

You can probably T the wiring into the vintage air blower motor wires and then have a on off switch to enable the rear motor. Installing the Air conditioning/heater kit is a lot of work in itself, adding the rear heater would be a fair amount more. I did consider adding the rear heater in because I need lots of heat in colorado high country, but the vintage air puts out pretty good heat, and the rear heater was kind of in the way of the rear passengers feet since my rear seats face forward, and I was always worried about damaging it when I threw heavy items in the back. I do not regret the decision now that Ive had the kit installed for a few months.

 

[ginmtb]

Dang $59 for these! Oh well it’s only money... Somewhat inconsequential with as much as we spend on these vehicles.