Rear heater hose replacement

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I agree, I bypassed mine because in 2 years I have used it once, not to mention that the peice of mind/quickness of fix was a no brainer. It's been in the teens here temperature wise and I have to do all the work outside (doesn't fit in the garage).

I have noticed a slight bump in temperature coming out of the vents, has anyone else experienced this?
 
.............I have noticed a slight bump in temperature coming out of the vents, has anyone else experienced this?

I am by far, no expert, but IMHO if you experienced an improvement in your front heater after bypassing the rear, you might have a restriction in the flow through your heater core. Or maybe your heater valve was not opening completely and now is. One thing's for sure, the coolant temp that's provided to the heater cores, at proper engine operating temp, is adequate to provide good heating for the "lower 48" weather enviroment.
 
so can regular heater hose work to bypass the above cat metal tubes? ive got my rear heater bypassed, as the rusty pipes finally sprung open a few months ago. no way in hell i plan on getting the tranny 'out of the way' to replace this, so it looks like ill be bypassing & replacing (yet again...) another metal coolant line with heater hose :rolleyes:

id imagine the silicone stuff is much better as the lines will be exposed to the elements, but ill be planning on wrapping the hose and fitting it up and inboard of the frame rails. id leave the rear heat delete as is...but ive got 3 kids back there that i want to be comfy. havent used it alot, but its nice to have...
 
I just got back from my first trip beyond "around town". Me and the kids took a 750 mile round trip to pick up a compact loader. Got home and found coolant dripping off the heat shield. Looks like I caught this in the nick of time. The kids like having toasty warm toes, so I think a bypass is out of the question.

Really wish I had a heated garage...
 
getting ready to do this, a few questions.

i'm getting ready to do the replacement procedure of the rear heater lines, but instead of going with the OEM hard lines i'm using gates green stripe.

my plan is to use 1/2" gates green stripe housed inside a 1" basic heater hose, then rout these two new hoses along the top of the frame to the rear heater core nipples, rather than follow the path the hard lines took. I think this will help with heat exposure.

two questions: has anyone done this method, and if so, what's a good way to fasten the new hoses to the frame to minimize movement/chaffing etc? i'm thinking maybe some really long zip ties or something? is there some other simple way i'm not thinking of?

secondly, the larger heat shield is rusted to crap. i'm thinking about just leaving it off. since i'm running the hose along the frame metal, opposite of the cat/exhaust, is the heat shield really necessary? has anyone replaced it, and if so how much $ am i looking at shelling out? or should i just put it back on as is (i'm pretty sure it will still block heat effectively, but it's rusted through at the outer seam, so it's guts are now open to exposure.)

any other flaws in my plan? let me know, thanks.
 
job's done.

no replies on my last post, so i just went for it. ended up getting 8' of 1/2" gates green stripe. after removing the heat shield and old lines (totally trashed...) i lost about a gallon of coolant.

I measured the length for both hoses and cut two lengths to fit. one line is slightly longer than the other. remember, the front nipple closest to the center of the truck runs to the rear-most nipple going into the rear heater core. this hose should be about 32". the inner one should be about 31". i used automotive heat tape ($20 from o'reilly's) to fasten both hoses together, making them a little easier to maneuver under there as one unit.

i hooked these up and used regular hose clamps up front (the front nipples didn't seem long enough for two clamps per hose) and i used double clamps in the back. i couldn't source the constant tension clamps and needed to do the job, so i just used regular clamps (hey, toyota just used generic spring clamps in the first place, so i'm going to check my OCD on this one.)

i routed the hoses along the upper part of the frame and used a combination of the heat tape and some heavy duty zip ties to fasten it securely to the frame rail. if i had to do it again i would probably use duct tape first and then cover that with the heat tape. the heat tape is expensive ($20 for 15') and sticks to itself well, but not much else. it didn't want to stick to the dirty cold metal of the frame, but i wrapped it around about four times and i think it's pretty secure.

one note, there is a flange back there that is attached to the frame for holding the O2 wiring harness in place. you can just bend this toward the center of the truck a little to create a space for the hoses to run underneath.

i ended up putting the heat shield back on, just for added protection. i also wrapped heat tape around the exposed portion of the hose coming from the upper rear heater lines, for a little added protection from heat generated by the cat.

tightened everything down, topped off the coolant and fired her up. i ran it for about 20 minutes, checking for leaks. all the hoses looked dry and leak-free, although there is a bunch of coolant stuck down in the cat from when i disconnected the old lines. i noticed some drips but i'm thinking its from that. both front and rear heat blew really hot.

i thought about sleeving the green stripe, but after looking at the setup i don't think it's necessary. the frame provides lot's of heat protection and if you fasten the hoses well there's just nowhere for them to rub. also, the green stripe is so burly i think it would take a lot of abuse before failing.

so all-in-all i have $28 in hose and clamps, $20 in heat tape, a few zip ties and $10 in coolant. not bad as opposed to $130 for the new OEM hard lines.

the job took about three hours start to finish, but i'm slow. i think using the hard lines would shave a good hour off this job, so that should be considered if you are going to tackle this job.
 
Looks like I may be needing to a make this decision soon. Lines look rusty, starting to drip at the connection to the hoses.

Wondering how your solution is holding up and working out CWININGER.

And wondering, do I understand correctly that Toyota will not service the cooling system if the hard lines are replaced with something other than original hard lines? I don't use the dealer for service but just curious.
 
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I tried using 5/8" hose on the two short hoses on the rear heater core connections and it did not fit well. If I remember correctly 1/2" was a bit tight. I found 9/16" hose and that fit much better (only needed one clamp). The hose Toyota sells is metric AFAIK.
 
Bumping this thread because it talks about the length needed and the fact that Toyota sells metric hose. Since one is 31" long (say 790mm) and the other is 32" long (say 815mm), there may be a Toyota solution if one was so inclined.

99556-20900 is 13mm ID and 900mm long. With a short trim you would get exactly the right length needed.
99556-21000, 99556-21250, 99556-21450, and 99556-21850 are also available in Japan. I called my local dealer and they cannot get these part numbers stateside. But I wonder if any MUD parts gurus could work such magic?
 
I replaced mine with Toyota metal lines for the added insurance of never having to do it again. With the engine and transmission out it was not all that difficult.
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Replacing mine now, wasn't about to spend $200 for the rear metal assembly to then have to buy new hoses anyway.

Found 9/16 heater hose that seems like it's going to work.

Putting it here for the next person that may encounter this.

As of today I will likely have about 10 feet of this, if you need it send me a message.

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To be completely clear/transparent in my recommendation above, here are the specs. I will also be posting my solution when we think we've got it right. Considering we want to keep the rear heater and are not putting the underside metal lines back in place.

Why did we opt for slightly looser instead of slightly tighter? The 1/2 in just wasn't going on right, and we didn't want to risk damaging lines that are hard to find, later on down the line.

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To be completely clear/transparent in my recommendation above, here are the specs. I will also be posting my solution when we think we've got it right. Considering we want to keep the rear heater and are not putting the underside metal lines back in place.

Why did we opt for slightly looser instead of slightly tighter? The 1/2 in just wasn't going on right, and we didn't want to risk damaging lines that are hard to find, later on down the line.

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I'm going to be going down this road soon... Thanks for all this info and please take lots of Pic's !!!
 
I used 1/2" silicone on the 80 13yrs ago when I started this thread, that 80 is gone, but on my current 80 I used 1/2" Gates. Wiped the inside of the hose with a bit of antifreeze, they slipped right on and worked perfectly.
 
I used 1/2" silicone on the 80 13yrs ago when I started this thread, that 80 is gone, but on my current 80 I used 1/2" Gates. Wiped the inside of the hose with a bit of antifreeze, they slipped right on and worked perfectly.

What did you do to protect the hose from heat?

Did you maintain the original hose line, to keep it taunt?

Have any pictures of setup?
 
I kept the hard lines. They were and are in very good shape and I have no desire to delete the rear heater. Plus, just too much work to cleanly remove the hard lines. I am a big proponent of the Toyota design so I mess with it as little as I can.
 
I kept the hard lines. They were and are in very good shape and I have no desire to delete the rear heater. Plus, just too much work to cleanly remove the hard lines. I am a big proponent of the Toyota design so I mess with it as little as I can.


My hard lines are completely deteriorated and I am looking at trying to find a used set, which I have not for less than $200 and still relying on rubber on both ends.

So we are trying to make a solution for the $200 price tag and some elbow grease, that may resolve this.
 

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