Rear heater hose replacement

[rdcnj]

Hey, @rdcnj, how are the hoses holding up? I am about to do the same to my 80.

Don’t want to jinx it by talking about it. Lol.

All kidding aside, 0 issues with it.

Used it all winter when the truck was driven. Because it was needed and to test it all out.

 

[migz808]

Don’t want to jinx it by talking about it. Lol.

All kidding aside, 0 issues with it.

Used it all winter when the truck was driven. Because it was needed and to test it all out.

Lols. Glad to hear it doing well.

 

[Bsteimel]

So I just did this recently. I bought OEM lines for the rear heater lines that sit above the exhaust. $233. For the lines that run down the firewall I did not think I had the ability to remove and install the heater lines with the motor and transmission in place. The other person had the head off I did not do that either. Instead i took gates hoses and routed them along the old crusty lines and zip tied them to the old crusty lines. I did not cover the gates hoses in heat tape as the other user did. They are not as exposed to the road as the other hoses by the exhaust so I did not think it was necessary.
I also replaced a lot of other parts during this project. Thermostat, bypass o-rings, heater valve, PHH hose, hoses around the heater valve, temp water sensor, fan shroud, wrapped wiring harness near EGR valve, trans flex plate cover and all new coolant.

I bought a 50'ft of hose because the cost made sense. I obviously have plenty left. If anyone is interested hit me up. It's certainly more then enough for another job. It's 1/2". Pay for shipping plus a dollar a foot maybe. Shoot me an offer.

I worked nights so it took me a long time to finish. The PHH hose was pesky and routing the 1 hose over the transmission in order to keep it away from the EGR valve was a pita but overall I am very happy and confident in the longevity of the project. Will it last another 25, I'm not sure but certainly 10. Coolant temps are super consistent even during this week in the 90s. All staying below 200.

If your going to undertake this project make sure you have plenty of different size sockets with a flexible head wrench. Some long needle nose pliers and a long grabby tool. I also had to Dremel the one metal heater hose in order for the gates hose to fit in the space between the firewall and the motor. This is the hose that is closest to the EGR valve. If anyone has any question reach out. Iw I'll try and post pics later in the week.

 

[Kernal]

Were the hoses routed above the cat heat shields, and did you use Gates Green Stripe (or White Stripe)??

Photos of the hose routing would be appreciated.

 

[Bsteimel]

I used gates green strip and the hoses near the cats are the OEM metal hoses and the heat shields are still intact.

 

[Bsteimel]

So I just did this recently. I bought OEM lines for the rear heater lines that sit above the exhaust. $233. For the lines that run down the firewall I did not think I had the ability to remove and install the heater lines with the motor and transmission in place. The other person had the head off I did not do that either. Instead i took gates hoses and routed them along the old crusty lines and zip tied them to the old crusty lines. I did not cover the gates hoses in heat tape as the other user did. They are not as exposed to the road as the other hoses by the exhaust so I did not think it was necessary.
I also replaced a lot of other parts during this project. Thermostat, bypass o-rings, heater valve, PHH hose, hoses around the heater valve, temp water sensor, fan shroud, wrapped wiring harness near EGR valve, trans flex plate cover and all new coolant.

I bought a 50'ft of hose because the cost made sense. I obviously have plenty left. If anyone is interested hit me up. It's certainly more then enough for another job. It's 1/2". Pay for shipping plus a dollar a foot maybe. Shoot me an offer.

I worked nights so it took me a long time to finish. The PHH hose was pesky and routing the 1 hose over the transmission in order to keep it away from the EGR valve was a pita but overall I am very happy and confident in the longevity of the project. Will it last another 25, I'm not sure but certainly 10. Coolant temps are super consistent even during this week in the 90s. All staying below 200.

If your going to undertake this project make sure you have plenty of different size sockets with a flexible head wrench. Some long needle nose pliers and a long grabby tool. I also had to Dremel the one metal heater hose in order for the gates hose to fit in the space between the firewall and the motor. This is the hose that is closest to the EGR valve. If anyone has any question reach out. Iw I'll try and post pics later in the week.

Attached pictures

These are from the top of the engine with the last one of the OEM replacement into the rear heater.

 

[Bsteimel]

These are from the bottom. Showing the OEM replacement underneath the CAT heat shields and then showing the second part routing through the transmission tunnel away from the shifter linkage and then on top of the transmission over to each side of the back of the engine. Gates green strip and some zip ties. Every time i do my oil change i plan on giving them a quick peek to make sure those zip ties are still holding up.

 

[BTLSHP]

These are from the bottom. Showing the OEM replacement underneath the CAT heat shields and then showing the second part routing through the transmission tunnel away from the shifter linkage and then on top of the transmission over to each side of the back of the engine. Gates green strip and some zip ties. Every time i do my oil change i plan on giving them a quick peek to make sure those zip ties are still holding up.

I have a '94 which may or may not make a difference. The exhaust runs up over the frame rail just infant of the muffler. I would love to understand how to get a new set of rear hardline up over the heat shields. I can lower the heat shields, I won't even try to remove the CATS after 30 years.

That is issue #1 and if this is solved issue #2 goes away.

Issue #2 has me concerned with how close the hoses can run to the exhaust pipe right at the heater connection. The existing rubber is pretty close, but it seem to me I would have to run my hose through this "gap." Safe?