Ok here's my fix after determining that i had a broken arm on the inside of my actuator. If my steps are to brief i apologize, but i believe anyone with the slightest mechanical know how can follow them and make this an easy fix, if not you might be S.O.L.
First things first heres the tools and supplies I used
Next take the handle, interior latch bezel, and rear cargo door cover off.
Next take the actuator cover off (6 phillips head screws), dont snatch it off because more than likely the motor will stay in the cover and not the main body
Luckily i was able to remove the arm from the shaft because it was split directly down the middle, which means i have plenty of surface area to apply my epoxy.
Next clean the shaft off, leave the grease on the cover and rear of actuator body to possibly keep the shaft from bonding to the body or cover. Sadly i didn't have any alcohol and was scared the old ladys fingernail polish would leave a residue, so i sprayed some starter fluid onto a Q-Tip and started cleaning.
Leave the grease on the cover, the shaft sits in the cover to help with alignment, and you don't want to bond these together
Time to mix the JB Weld. This stuff is supposed to cure in 4-6 minutes but im calling BS. At 10 minutes i could poke it and it was still very malleable, so dont touch your lock/unlock switch after you reinstall everything. I applied a small amount to the shaft and to the arm, but more to the arm because id rather the epoxy on the arm get pushed out so i could wipe it off instead of putting more on the shaft and it getting pushed to the inside where i couldn't clean it. I mixed with the supplied Popsicle stick, but applied with a Q-Tip
I applied a little to the outside after i slid the arm in just in case it decided to find a crevice that i missed. Not sure if this is necessary because i ended up cleaning it off with a Q tip afterward, but it deff didn't hurt.
After you clean the extra epoxy off make make sure the plunger is either fully in the locked or unlocked position, it doesn't matter which position because of the design. Before the epoxy dries, rotate the arm on the so that it touches the half moon on the sprocket/gear. The half moon/sprocket pushes the arm, which turns the connecting rod attached to the lock/unlock plunger. I saw again it doesn't matter if the plunger is locked or unlocked, nor the position of the arm (up or down) as long as you don't leave either in between.
Dont worry about moving the arm immediately after sliding it on, as long as the epoxy is still fresh it should help apply epoxy to the crevices in that crosshatched pattern on the arm and shaft, same idea as applying PVC glue when doing plumbing.
Side note: After fooling with the actuator while it was broken i figured out when locking or unlocking with the plunger the arm would move with the shaft, but not the power switch. Which means the arm simply couldn't take the violent action of being struck by the sprocket. So when i finished and reinstalled all the parts I left the hatch open and every 20 minutes or so i walked outside and slowly locked and unlocked using the plunger in an attempt to keep the epoxy from bonding the shaft and actuator body together (just in case i screwed up during the application process)
Woke up the next day and the power lock/unlocked worked as it should. Hopeully this helps someone. Besides spending extra time at Lowes wandering around looking at stuff i didn't need, this fix only took about 20-30 minutes including clean up. GOOD LUCK