Yea, where the lock is at doesn't matter. It only opens from the inside.
Add me to the club of people that had no idea there was a key hole under the emblem. My key actually works the lock properly, though.
Rear Hatch Lock Issues/Actuator Fix
- Thread starter KrOswalt
- Start date
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Yea, where the lock is at doesn't matter. It only opens from the inside.
Add me to the club of people that had no idea there was a key hole under the emblem. My key actually works the lock properly, though.
After my first actuator fix failed during the winter, I attempted it again with JB weld and had issues with clearance to the plastic case. I filed it down and but then had alignment issues and gave up. The local toyota yard wanted $75 for the piece. A quick Google search brought up the passenger door lock actuators manufactured by AISIN(OEM). The driver's side rear door lock actuator looked to be identical. Part number: AISIN DLT088. Ended up being $50 with shipping. This morning I installed the actuator and it fit perfect. Initially I did have some issues with it fulling locking but that was fixed by loosening the two actuator screws and realigning it. Now it is working perfectly and the wife is happy.
- Thread starter
- #24
Awesome. I’m wanting to say I had another issue with the actual plunger about a year ago, something to do with a set screw on the plunger rod maybe, but my power lock/unlock is still holding up
Replacing the actuator is working great. Thanks!
I just replaced my rear hatch power door lock actuator with the Aisin DLT088, which was the same as the drivers (US) side rear power door lock actuator. The post was spot on and the replacement worked like new! Since the actuator failure is due to the crack of the swingarm that holds it to the metal shaft - with the gears and motor still in good working order, I’m keeping it as spare parts in hope to fix my drivers side power lock that is starting to act funny.
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I am in the process of fixing mine by trying to bond it at the crack and reinstalling the arm in the actuator. I think this might not work since it will probably split again when I try to put it over the shaft.
I will try epoxy next if this fails. I enjoy fixing it more than just replacing a part. There is joy in it.
Just tried it and it didn’t work. I am going to look into 3D printing the arm.
I will try epoxy next if this fails. I enjoy fixing it more than just replacing a part. There is joy in it.
Just tried it and it didn’t work. I am going to look into 3D printing the arm.
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So I found a guy and he is going to work to get this part made. Right now he did a test print for scale and to take measurements. Once it looks good he will make one with a higher quality material. I’ll test this out for a while and if there are no issues (and he lets me) I’ll post their contact information.
Updates: the far left was the original with a crack. The next is a mock up to measure and so was the white. The light blue was made to scale and seems to be right. The far right was the final part. It was made with carbon fiber woven into the plastic (that’s what I understood) so it’s real strong. The tolerance for the inner diameter is tight so I had to use an 8 or 9mm to beat it on but it’s real tight. Just using it a few times since instal and works great.
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Shaysoverlander
1990 HDJ-81 VX Limited Landcruiser (1HD-T)
@joccomalone Do you have update on how this actuator is working? I am having the same issue and would like to print a new one if the file is available.
Shaysoverlander
1990 HDJ-81 VX Limited Landcruiser (1HD-T)
@joccomalone Will this part work inside the driver's door lock actuator? I am assuming all doors on the 80 have the same door lock actuator assemblies, has anyone confirmed this? Also, I understand the reason behind selling the part (compensation for design time, etc.) but I have a Bambu labs printer and it would be way more convenient to just purchase the files. Tempted to design my own part and post it on Maker World.
...or here
- Thread starter
- #34
I have gotten rid of my cruiser, but if memory recalls all the lock actuator have that same part in them. A 3D printed part would probably help the community greatly
There are already quite a few parts on thingiverse. Would be nice to have this so I could print it.
The rear hatch and rear left doors are the same. The front door has a similar one but not the same and the right doors are mirror images of the left.
The drivers door needs some modifications. I would reach out to the guy who made my part. I paid for the file to be made and then the part. He might be willing to give up the file.
Just want to say thanks for this. My LC had the same issue and I have repaired using this procedure.. It will be luxury to have a power operated rear hatch lock. Maybe I should upgrade to remote locking .....Ok here's my fix after determining that i had a broken arm on the inside of my actuator. If my steps are to brief i apologize, but i believe anyone with the slightest mechanical know how can follow them and make this an easy fix, if not you might be S.O.L.
First things first heres the tools and supplies I used
Next take the handle, interior latch bezel, and rear cargo door cover off.
Next take the actuator cover off (6 phillips head screws), dont snatch it off because more than likely the motor will stay in the cover and not the main body
Luckily i was able to remove the arm from the shaft because it was split directly down the middle, which means i have plenty of surface area to apply my epoxy.
Next clean the shaft off, leave the grease on the cover and rear of actuator body to possibly keep the shaft from bonding to the body or cover. Sadly i didn't have any alcohol and was scared the old ladys fingernail polish would leave a residue, so i sprayed some starter fluid onto a Q-Tip and started cleaning.
Leave the grease on the cover, the shaft sits in the cover to help with alignment, and you don't want to bond these together
Time to mix the JB Weld. This stuff is supposed to cure in 4-6 minutes but im calling BS. At 10 minutes i could poke it and it was still very malleable, so dont touch your lock/unlock switch after you reinstall everything. I applied a small amount to the shaft and to the arm, but more to the arm because id rather the epoxy on the arm get pushed out so i could wipe it off instead of putting more on the shaft and it getting pushed to the inside where i couldn't clean it. I mixed with the supplied Popsicle stick, but applied with a Q-Tip
I applied a little to the outside after i slid the arm in just in case it decided to find a crevice that i missed. Not sure if this is necessary because i ended up cleaning it off with a Q tip afterward, but it deff didn't hurt.
After you clean the extra epoxy off make make sure the plunger is either fully in the locked or unlocked position, it doesn't matter which position because of the design. Before the epoxy dries, rotate the arm on the so that it touches the half moon on the sprocket/gear. The half moon/sprocket pushes the arm, which turns the connecting rod attached to the lock/unlock plunger. I saw again it doesn't matter if the plunger is locked or unlocked, nor the position of the arm (up or down) as long as you don't leave either in between.
Dont worry about moving the arm immediately after sliding it on, as long as the epoxy is still fresh it should help apply epoxy to the crevices in that crosshatched pattern on the arm and shaft, same idea as applying PVC glue when doing plumbing.
Side note: After fooling with the actuator while it was broken i figured out when locking or unlocking with the plunger the arm would move with the shaft, but not the power switch. Which means the arm simply couldn't take the violent action of being struck by the sprocket. So when i finished and reinstalled all the parts I left the hatch open and every 20 minutes or so i walked outside and slowly locked and unlocked using the plunger in an attempt to keep the epoxy from bonding the shaft and actuator body together (just in case i screwed up during the application process)
Woke up the next day and the power lock/unlocked worked as it should. Hopeully this helps someone. Besides spending extra time at Lowes wandering around looking at stuff i didn't need, this fix only took about 20-30 minutes including clean up. GOOD LUCK
So I ended up just swapping in a new actuator from the rear left door, ordered on amazon for quickness. It got annoying because initially the repair worked, then didn't work. And then on a trip to Colorado temp changes made it work again, but only when locking the doors. So I had to climb in and around the stuff I packed to unlock it every time. Didn't feel like taking it all apart again so I just replaced the whole actuator. Now it works flawlessly.