Rear Hatch Lock Issues/Actuator Fix (1 Viewer)

[KrOswalt]

Just purchased a 1996 FZJ-80 yesterday, I know this is my first post and being familiar with forums I know it’s kinda sh*tty to make your first post a question but I’m stumped. I’ve searched ih8mud for a couple hours and can’t find my exact issue.
My rear hatch will lock/unlock manually, but the original key nor the power locks will work. When I stick the key in it will quarter turn but will not unlock or lock. I assumed it was an actuator problem at first but since the actual key to the vehicle doesn’t work I’m clueless. Somewhat hesitant to open it up until I get some more info.
Thanks for the help, hopefully this is a common issue and I simply can’t find the answers.
Also does this “CDan” character still exist? I’ve seen he is the man with a plan when it comes to ordering parts, but those posts mentioning him are somewhat old.

 

[Lumpskie]

Do you have multiple keys? I have one key that doesn't work in the tailgate and one that does. I assume one is like a valet key or something. My rear hatch lock behavior is identical to yours.

 

[SteamerF18]

There are a few different approaches to diagnose the rear hatch in this thread. HTH.

FJ80 Rear Lift Gate Won't Open

 

[Tools R Us]

Remove the panel and inspect, it's often the clip(s) that hold the links together. They put CDan in the cruiser museum.

 

[KrOswalt]

Thanks for the quick reply’s, and I’ll give it all a look when I get home this evening.

Remove the panel and inspect, it's often the clip(s) that hold the links together. They put CDan in the cruiser museum.

Is there another direct source for quality OEM parts this day and age? Or do we have to get off our butts and do our own research and find our own part numbers on the forum?

 

[Tools R Us]

In this case, if it's broken clips, they are not supported the best from Toyota. We have a good local body shop supply store, take the broken clip and match it up. They are well supported in the aftermarket, amazon, etc.

 

[Cruzerman]

They put CDan in the cruiser museum.

I think he's on display there.

 

[bicycleagent003]

There's also a common issue where the rear lock actuator motor has a little plastic arm which becomes separated from the metal shaft on which is sits. The relationship between the two should be fixed, but the arm can become loose due to age. Carefully epoxying them together by putting some epoxy on the joint between the arm and shaft can solve this, and did for me.
I was not able to remove the arm, as I recall, I just put a few drops of epoxy on the top of the shaft and smeared it onto the arm.
You have to remove and open up the lock actuator motor to do this fix. It's kind of a PITA, but it's a free fix.

 

[COYS]

My rear latch only seems to lock manually either with key or pressing the lock switch inside the hatch door by window - never via remote. When I do lock manually, it unlocks when I shut down the truck and all doors unlock.

Not sure what to do here. Bit of a nuisance.

 

[SteamerF18]

Thanks for the quick reply’s, and I’ll give it all a look when I get home this evening.

Is there another direct source for quality OEM parts this day and age? Or do we have to get off our butts and do our own research and find our own part numbers on the forum?

Check out the vendors section, lots of good folks there that specialize in our addiction Vendors

I've also used Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories Online Authentic Toyota Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Overstock https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com to see who has the best deal on the specific part(s) I need. There are many more of course. I've been surprised a few times at the variance in price from dealer to dealer, searching around the interwebs can be to your benefit.

I've even driven to my local Toyota dealership and interacted with an actual human at the parts desk.

 

[KrOswalt]

Well turns out I do have two different keys, as Lumpskie mentioned one is a “valet” key. I did take the panel off but didn’t have an extra hand to hit the lock/unlock button so I couldn’t tell if the actuator is “actuating” or not, and I can’t tell if what I’m hearing is coming from the doors or the hatch. As far as I can tell there’s no broken parts so it’s either a bad actuator or the arm inside the actuator is broken as bicycleagent003 mentioned. I’ll dive into it a little further tomorrow.

 

[LINUS]

I’m sure @cruiserdan will still accept your $$$, but you probably won’t get anything in return, unless you want a box of empty dog food bags or crushed Keystone cans.

Still gotta keep a few $ for the dogs & Keystones, right D?

 

[KrOswalt]

I've even driven to my local Toyota dealership and interacted with an actual human at the parts desk.

That’s a bold move, I’ve visited the spealership twice over the course of my driving life, one was for warranty work, one was to purchase some overpriced clips to keep my GMC seats from rattling. I try to stay away from negative places like that

 

[KrOswalt]

There's also a common issue where the rear lock actuator motor has a little plastic arm which becomes separated from the metal shaft on which is sits. The relationship between the two should be fixed, but the arm can become loose due to age. Carefully epoxying them together by putting some epoxy on the joint between the arm and shaft can solve this, and did for me.
I was not able to remove the arm, as I recall, I just put a few drops of epoxy on the top of the shaft and smeared it onto the arm.
You have to remove and open up the lock actuator motor to do this fix. It's kind of a PITA, but it's a free fix.

Confirmed, this is the problem. Agree with not being able to get the arm off, if I could I’m sure the fix would last a lot longer. Didn’t have any type of epoxy but I’m going to try some gorilla glue tomorrow. Next fix is the passenger seat forward/rear power. Thanks for the help everyone

 

[bicycleagent003]

I would suggest waiting until you have some 2 part epoxy. The stuff is way stronger than any other one part glue like Gorilla Glue, IMHO. You will probably only get one shot at gluing it - I'd say wait until you have the best adhesive. Plus it's only $5 at Ace/Home Depot/Lowe's, etc.
Good luck.

If you post up your results, esp. with pics, other users will benefit from your work, too.

 

[KrOswalt]

I would suggest waiting until you have some 2 part epoxy. The stuff is way stronger than any other one part glue like Gorilla Glue, IMHO. You will probably only get one shot at gluing it - I'd say wait until you have the best adhesive. Plus it's only $5 at Ace/Home Depot/Lowe's, etc.
Good luck.

If you post up your results, esp. with pics, other users will benefit from your work, too.

Ok, took the hatch cover off again, while getting my head as close as possible to make sure I didn’t get epoxy anywhere that didn’t need it I noticed the arm was split in half where it wraps around the rod. It was a clean split that looked to be where a seam was during the molding process. The epoxy is drying as we speak so I’ll know if it worked in the morning; in the mean time I’ll upload some pics to my imgur account (I’m assuming that’s what people still use?)

 

[KrOswalt]

Ok here's my fix after determining that i had a broken arm on the inside of my actuator. If my steps are to brief i apologize, but i believe anyone with the slightest mechanical know how can follow them and make this an easy fix, if not you might be S.O.L.

First things first heres the tools and supplies I used

Next take the handle, interior latch bezel, and rear cargo door cover off.

Next take the actuator cover off (6 phillips head screws), dont snatch it off because more than likely the motor will stay in the cover and not the main body

Luckily i was able to remove the arm from the shaft because it was split directly down the middle, which means i have plenty of surface area to apply my epoxy.

Next clean the shaft off, leave the grease on the cover and rear of actuator body to possibly keep the shaft from bonding to the body or cover. Sadly i didn't have any alcohol and was scared the old ladys fingernail polish would leave a residue, so i sprayed some starter fluid onto a Q-Tip and started cleaning.

Leave the grease on the cover, the shaft sits in the cover to help with alignment, and you don't want to bond these together

Time to mix the JB Weld. This stuff is supposed to cure in 4-6 minutes but im calling BS. At 10 minutes i could poke it and it was still very malleable, so dont touch your lock/unlock switch after you reinstall everything. I applied a small amount to the shaft and to the arm, but more to the arm because id rather the epoxy on the arm get pushed out so i could wipe it off instead of putting more on the shaft and it getting pushed to the inside where i couldn't clean it. I mixed with the supplied Popsicle stick, but applied with a Q-Tip

I applied a little to the outside after i slid the arm in just in case it decided to find a crevice that i missed. Not sure if this is necessary because i ended up cleaning it off with a Q tip afterward, but it deff didn't hurt.

After you clean the extra epoxy off make make sure the plunger is either fully in the locked or unlocked position, it doesn't matter which position because of the design. Before the epoxy dries, rotate the arm on the so that it touches the half moon on the sprocket/gear. The half moon/sprocket pushes the arm, which turns the connecting rod attached to the lock/unlock plunger. I saw again it doesn't matter if the plunger is locked or unlocked, nor the position of the arm (up or down) as long as you don't leave either in between.

Dont worry about moving the arm immediately after sliding it on, as long as the epoxy is still fresh it should help apply epoxy to the crevices in that crosshatched pattern on the arm and shaft, same idea as applying PVC glue when doing plumbing.

Side note: After fooling with the actuator while it was broken i figured out when locking or unlocking with the plunger the arm would move with the shaft, but not the power switch. Which means the arm simply couldn't take the violent action of being struck by the sprocket. So when i finished and reinstalled all the parts I left the hatch open and every 20 minutes or so i walked outside and slowly locked and unlocked using the plunger in an attempt to keep the epoxy from bonding the shaft and actuator body together (just in case i screwed up during the application process)
Woke up the next day and the power lock/unlocked worked as it should. Hopeully this helps someone. Besides spending extra time at Lowes wandering around looking at stuff i didn't need, this fix only took about 20-30 minutes including clean up. GOOD LUCK

 

[EvanD]

Thanks for the write up! I'll be digging into this myself soon so it's def appreciated.

My lock was sluggish for a while but not it only opens from the inside latch, the outer latch above the license plate doesn't open the hatch even when it works from the inside. I'll post up what I find.

 

[KrOswalt]

You can get to the actuator pretty easily. Does it only open from the inside regardless of if it’s locked or unlocked?

 

[OffRoadScott]

I had similiar issues to you when I first got my LC. I sprayed lubricant in the key hole, check the linkage under the access panel all checked out ok. I was having issues with the key not only in the rear hatch but the doors too I got when I purchased the car, so I had another key cut. Once I had the second key cut it made a big difference.