Rear Hatch(Door) Adjusting: How? (1 Viewer)

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I've done a search and even looked in the FSM but am still having trouble. For a while now the upper part of the rear hatch has been off to one side more than the other.

There are two hinges that hold the door to the roof area and I loosened them, but got nowhere. I have also adjusted the lock striker and it really doesn't do anything for the side to side adjustment. There are supposed to be three other bolts(one set to each hinge) that attach to the roof area but I don't see them.

I don't want to remove the weatherstripping to find out they're not there or even worse, remove part of the headliner on the inside to find out i'm on the wrong side of the bolt.

Anyone ever have any success with adjusting the rear door? Thanks!

Btw, This is an FJ60
 
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Wow, no one has done this? :confused:
 
Mine top hatch needs to go in a little on the pass. side but never fixed it. I was just gonna follow the directions starting on page BO-27 in the FSM when I attempted it. That don't work?
 
Yeah, I saw those instructions, but they really don't say much if you notice.

Kinda lack luster....

Edit: I just searched the online PDF files and found that it's more informational.

I'll check it out and report later as to what I found.
 
Mine top hatch needs to go in a little on the pass. side but never fixed it. I was just gonna follow the directions starting on page BO-27 in the FSM when I attempted it. That don't work?

In order to get to the hinges that I think need adjusting, one would have to peel back some of the headliner. Don't want to do that. Hmm.
 
Ya could always move the mounting points via weld drill and re tap
but that seems to intensive
Is it that bad?
My 60 top hatch is a bit off but never considered it high on my list
I guess I would look into the reason the hatch is cocked
Post what you find out
 
Defining "Rear Hatch off"...does that mean one side does not close all the way shut?
I have the same issue on the passenger side where the hatch is not as flush as it is on the driver side.
 
yeah thats the one, mine has that much of a gap the rubber seal doesnt make contact.. i think the miles of corrigations i have gone over have loosened something up
 
Believe it or not , those four bolts on the hatch do it.
The guy who did my paint adjusted it while i watched him. he would loosen the bolts and smack it with a rubber mallet on inside window frame edge. Got it way better than it always had been.
I always had a bigger gap on pass side as well as sticking out a little past corner panel.
 
Do the bolts operate to adjust the upper piece of the hatch or do you think the inner piece of the assembly has a floating piece that can shift (and thus the bolts should be tightened back down all the way)? I'll get the whole thing calibrated: the lock mechanism will catch / clock twice, everything is flush when closed, and then when I go to tighten the inner bolts, the tightening pulls it all out of the alignment and I'm back to square one.
 
Do the bolts operate to adjust the upper piece of the hatch or do you think the inner piece of the assembly has a floating piece that can shift (and thus the bolts should be tightened back down all the way)? I'll get the whole thing calibrated: the lock mechanism will catch / clock twice, everything is flush when closed, and then when I go to tighten the inner bolts, the tightening pulls it all out of the alignment and I'm back to square one.
click* twice
 
I have come that conclusion that the panel fitment on 60 series is not Bentley class and just ignored it. My drivers door has a wider "groove" than fender for example. By the groove i mean than pressed bodyline that goes on the whole side of the car. It has been a nightmare to fit all body panels and doors from many different cars to the body. Not one fits like a glove.
 
I pulled the rear upper hatch off for painting and now I'm looking for the gap measurement for the top between the hatch and the roof. The manual tells you how to adjust it but has no measurements. I would like to get this done so I can complete the headliner. Thanks!
 
Funny I was just thinking about this and a zombie thread floats to the top of the heap. The lower left corner of my hatch sits proud of the D-pillar area whereas the right side sits flush. I get a squeak from back there too, like maybe the left side isn't seating against the striker. The hinges have two bolts on the "outside" by the weather stripping and three under the headliner on the inside. I'm wondering if the inside and outside bolts tighten against each other. So loosening the outer bolts a touch, then tightening the inner bolts would serve to "pull" the hatch in.

Thoughts? Anyone done that?
 
Funny I was just thinking about this and a zombie thread floats to the top of the heap. The lower left corner of my hatch sits proud of the D-pillar area whereas the right side sits flush. I get a squeak from back there too, like maybe the left side isn't seating against the striker. The hinges have two bolts on the "outside" by the weather stripping and three under the headliner on the inside. I'm wondering if the inside and outside bolts tighten against each other. So loosening the outer bolts a touch, then tightening the inner bolts would serve to "pull" the hatch in.

Thoughts? Anyone done that?
From what I see with the door off, the 2 bolts on the hinge will allow to push the hatch either further away or closer to the cab. While the 3 bolts under the headliner allow for more side to side or up and down movements. That's just what I can tell.
 
As far as I can tell my problems were solved when I replaced the (replacement) cargo hatch struts. PO had installed a set that were an inch or two too short and it had the effect of pulling the top hatch piece of out of alignment. Agree with @Samppahj though - not ever gonna be a perfect fit.
 

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