Rear Dust Shields are almost dust (1 Viewer)
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@Cruisin911 pointed me in this thread direction. In changing my rear brake pads last weekend i noticed my rear driver's side has this corrosion issue on the back plate. I've heard the rattle from that area before when offroad, but now this makes sense. Visually looked like a cheap easy to replace super thin metal part. Apparently not at all, I didn't realize the part was so expensive, and the labor was so involved. I'm at 125k miles, truck is an 08, spent the 1st 6.5 years in salty road NYC, then been in sunny Arizona since then. Curious what others have done now after reading this thread. I imagine i could just cut a thin piece of metal and jb weld to the back to "fix" my rattle issue. At what point are others changing wheel bearings though? Are there common signs of when this would need to be done? Sounds like if i can just patch the issue til then, and do at the same time when bearings are needed that'd make the most sense. Just curious how the others on this thread have moved forward, i saw quite a few post's with the issue, but nobody saying if they ended up doing anything besides @cruiseroutfit .
Personally, I would be inclined to take off the radiator cap, drive a new truck under it, then go home.
That type of stuff is now gonna plague you for the rest of it's life.
Sorry, not very helpful.
May not be very helpful, but may be accurate. Yeah this "light surface rust" truck of mine has been driving me nuts recently. Such simple little jobs (brake pads) have turned into such big expensive time consuming projects. You are in NH, what'd you do with your dust shields?
Personally, I would be inclined to take off the radiator cap, drive a new truck under it, then go home.
That type of stuff is now gonna plague you for the rest of it's life.
Sorry, not very helpful.
$1800 axel, 2014, 59k miles, with diff.
Might be a better option considering how rusty my axle is.
Might be a better option considering how rusty my axle is.
I had the underside of my truck sprayed by a local shop, using NH Undercoating products, just before Thanksgiving. It is remarkably clean underneath, even the guys at Budbuilt were surprised. But, as the song says, "rust never sleeps". Going through the brakes is on my Spring projects list, when it gets warm enough. I'll be inspecting those backing plates and probably putting a healthy coat of cosmoline or some other coating on them.
Swap the backing plates and do a wheel bearing overhaul kit at the same time imo. We've sold quite a few of the RAK200SD kits, several of which I know where diving in because of the backing plate rust bulge I had. 200's can be quite clean otherwise and still have that problem spot, hence why Toyota superceded and updated the backing plate to a superior design. If you decide to wait until the bearings fail... the job gets a little more haste and could leave you stranded. The few I've deal with were fortunate to drive home (mine included).
You can see our 200 Series rear axle kit here on Mud: YWST: 100 & 200 Series Rear Axle Rebuild Kits
You can see our 200 Series rear axle kit here on Mud: YWST: 100 & 200 Series Rear Axle Rebuild Kits
Definitely could be. I don't recall off the top of my head when they superceded the backing plate to the better design but a 14 may have it. I'd have to check when I'm back in the shop.
If you go that route. I'd buy your left over axle
220K. They were pretty loud, and the passenger side was in the process of failing when done (had spit grease on the ABS sensor leading to ABS light)
220 that
220k, that sounds like a fair number. Wheel bearings wasn't on my list of anything that would require attention in the near future. I hadn't heard of them failing on a 200 til now so was curious what the fail mileage range was. @cruiseroutfit did your bearing actually go bad down at 125k, or did you just change them because of the back plate rust issue? I'm all for preventative instead of waiting for them to fail, i just don't want to change them if i still got another 75-100k miles i could still roll on them.
I'm at 125k now, so hopefully i have some good life left on mine. My back plate issue at this point is just 1 out of the 4 with the rust issue (that i see). It's only issue is slight rattling offroad, but i think i can do a temp patch job with a thin sheet of metal and a dab of jbweld just to hold it together.
I do agree that when i eventually do change them it'd make sense to do the bearings and that RAK200 rebuild kit at that same time. Also, I'll probably casually look for any deals if they pop up on a salvage low mileage complete rear axle and maybe go that route instead. My axle is pretty rusty itself, so i wouldn't mind changing the whole thing out.
Catastrophic failure, bearing grenaded at 120k
Builds - Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread
Thanks! We had a great race (see the Canguro Racing thread) The 200 was most spendid. Other than @bryson treating every seat like a napkin it was perfect ;) Hey now, it's not my fault that your new seat covers are so soft and absorbent...:flipoff2:
forum.ih8mud.com
We've seen others fail/get play in similar range, predominantly on heavy 200's that see a fair bit of trail use (along with the Canguro 200), for example here is another:
2013 - 100K miles - Bad Rear Left wheel bearing?
I picked up our 2013 cruiser with 97K miles in late September and have put about 8k miles on it since then. Since the first day I got it, I felt a clicking/dragging type noise clearly coming from the left rear wheel when driving next to a wall or building with my driver side window down...
forum.ih8mud.com
Catastrophic failure, bearing grenaded at 120k
Builds - Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread
Thanks! We had a great race (see the Canguro Racing thread) The 200 was most spendid. Other than @bryson treating every seat like a napkin it was perfect ;) Hey now, it's not my fault that your new seat covers are so soft and absorbent...:flipoff2:
We've seen others fail/get play in similar range, predominantly on heavy 200's that see a fair bit of trail use (along with the Canguro 200), for example here is another:
2013 - 100K miles - Bad Rear Left wheel bearing?
I picked up our 2013 cruiser with 97K miles in late September and have put about 8k miles on it since then. Since the first day I got it, I felt a clicking/dragging type noise clearly coming from the left rear wheel when driving next to a wall or building with my driver side window down...
, well that ain't good. I'll read through the threads, i really appreciate the links. I wouldn't consider mine a heavy rig compared to others. I have a dual swing bumper, roof rack, but no drawers. It is my DD but does see a decent amount of trail use. That being said would you just consider this in general a 125k mile preventative maintenance item if you have a 200 and like dirt? Does the RAK200SF kit include everything i'd need besides the new back plates? Any guesstimates how many hours labor a shop should charge for that if i decide not to tackle myself? Or maybe better way to say it would be how many hours labor would you charge for that job including the back plates?
Yes, I consider it something that needs to be put on a 100 to 150K service interval. There are some additional notes and thoughts on that in my thread I linked. Labor time is about 6 hours? I honestly can't remember how long it took plus we're doing the locker on my personal 200 My guy in the shop can likely do them quicker. Yes the kid is comprehensive Kaaba if it needed anything else Kaaba we would be doing our job.
IIRC, the hardest part about this job is finding someone with the correct SST and a big press to pop the rear bearing off the shaft. I wonder if most dealerships would have this capability?
I made an SST for doing just this with mini-truck axles, but I sold my press several years ago, it was in the way in the garage.
I made an SST for doing just this with mini-truck axles, but I sold my press several years ago, it was in the way in the garage.
Here is my current axle. If i can find a low mileage salvage for a decent price that already has the back plates, I'd prefer to go that route.
Any good salvage sites besides car-part.com and ebay?
