Rear drive shaft removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bogart
- Start date
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2 x 14 mm wrenches and a little grunt will get the D/S off. Removing the U- Joint is a little more involved.
Not to sound like a douche, but if you are seeking advice for how to swing a wrench to remove the drive shaft, are you sure you want to tackle changing the U-joint?
What specifically are you needing advice about? Type of penetrating oil? size of tool?
Righty tightly, lefty loosey?
What specifically are you needing advice about? Type of penetrating oil? size of tool?
Righty tightly, lefty loosey?
I'll lift one rear tire off up the ground, put the transmission in neutral, and rotate the one wheel with my foot so I get the best access to the bolt I am removing. You can use your foot to also hold the tire in place as you loosen the bolt. Or if you have a 3/8" drive impact, that would be the easiest. Don't use open end wrenches as they are on tight, the bolts/nuts are a bit soft and prone to rounding off. 6pt socket or 12pt box end would be the best.
- Thread starter
- #5
Ok, I’m actually pretty competent with tools. Anyway, I’m pretty haulassing on those 14 mils and so far no budge, I’ve had the truck 15 yrs and have rebuilt most everything except removing these shafts, thought I would ask before I break something
- Thread starter
- #6
This helps, it seems too tight in there to get sockets on, I can get my gear wrench in there but again felt like I was nearing the break point
i use a deep 14mm swivel impact to zip them off, youll have to rotate the shaft to get the socket on. i also have this wrench and it works well Amazon product ASIN B00FY8UKVC. get a dead blow or soft faced hammer to knock the shaft free depending on how rusty and crusty it is on the yolk flanges
iptman
SILVER Star
Get yourself one of these zero offset extra long wrenches.
GEARWRENCH 120XP Universal Spline XL GearBox Metric Flex-Head Ratcheting Wrench 14 mm 86114 - The Home Depot
Do your hardware tighten job easily with the selection of this highly durable GearWrench Universal Spline XL GearBox Flex Head Ratcheting Wrench.
www.homedepot.com
These suck to get off. I like to tap on stuck nuts with a hammer to help get them moving again. This is one of my least favorite things to do on an 80 for some reason, so I wish you luck! A little impact and an extension is my saving grace for doing this job quickly though
REKCUT
SILVER Star
I use 2 wrenches. Usually cant get the box end on the head of the bolt as its to close to the pinion. Not that it will help you but now that i have a lift it is so much better than laying not he ground at odd angles.
6pt I've found works best for me so it doesn't slip and round off the corners.
I just put the trans in neutral, lay on the ground, keep my foot against the front or rear tire (depending on which side I'm loosening) then keep moving the 80 from underneath to loosen all the nuts..
Small prybar to tilt the yolk out and voila!
As @Squeegee said...for some reason these are such a pita, I also really don't enjoy taking them off...
Long handled wrenches or a short socket with extension and impact will help greatly.
I'm use to doing these with standard size 14mm 6pt box end wrenches and my hands will be very sore after...
I just put the trans in neutral, lay on the ground, keep my foot against the front or rear tire (depending on which side I'm loosening) then keep moving the 80 from underneath to loosen all the nuts..
Small prybar to tilt the yolk out and voila!
As @Squeegee said...for some reason these are such a pita, I also really don't enjoy taking them off...
Long handled wrenches or a short socket with extension and impact will help greatly.
I'm use to doing these with standard size 14mm 6pt box end wrenches and my hands will be very sore after...
Not gonna lie, I read this and wondered what respirating hardware meant and how I could do it too lmao
I just did U-joints (boooo) yesterday and was amazed at how much easier the driveshafts were to get off this time. The first time I did it, I had the same issue--on super tight and rounding or threatening to round. I ended up using liberal amounts of PB Blaster, a 14mm 6-sided impact socket, a contraption of impact swivel and extension bits, and some cursing/praying. Zipped right off, no additional damage.
If you're having access issues, like others have said, you can put the transmission and transfer case in neutral to allow you to spin the driveshaft(s) to get access. Once you reinstall, you shouldn't have this issue next time and the old 14mm wrench method will work.
I do recommend picking up replacement hardware. Can't tell you how nice it was to get rid of those damaged nuts. And don't forget to apply some thread locker before you put all the nuts back on--the new hardware allegedly has thread locker on it from the factory, but a little extra makes me less nervous down the road.
Good luck!
Hit them with a propane torch before you destroy the hardware. I always use red Loctite on driveshaft nuts which requires heat to remove. Just make it a habit to use heat on any old fasteners.
- Thread starter
- #17
As this plan has evolved that is one of the thoughts I’ve had, can’t hurt to heat em up! Should I lock tire em on replacement as you suggest? Not sure how I can get my torque wrench on there to get to 74 ft lbs
I'd also consider grabbing a drive shaft from the dealership. Includes new ujoints. I just picked on up for $350 or so. Now I'll toss my old one in the back as a spare. And I don't have to deal with the U-joints. Win/ Win.
37110-60520
37110-60520
THIS IS IMPORTANT!!! Mark, (SCRATCH OR PAIINT) both flanges where they meet the rear diff and the transfer case. Also mark the front yoke that slips into the driveshaft. If you don't do this and you just put the pieces back together they will be out of balance!!! Super important!!
This is NOT important to match where they meet the differential and back of transfer case. Period.
What IS important is that the YOKE is marked to the SHAFT if you need to take it apart for any reason.
The FRONT driveshaft should be 90° OUT of phase and the REAR driveshaft should be IN phase.
The slip yoke goes to the FRONT of the vehicle on BOTH front and rear DS.
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