Rear brake rotor upgrade? (1 Viewer)

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Toyota may have also increased the rear brake bias on these trucks given all of the mass over the rear axle.

IMO rear rotors/pads should wear even quicker relative to fronts on 16+ rigs due to their larger front brakes more easily handling their share of the work.

Personally I’m not a fan of drilled rotors unless we are talking about huge big brake kits on a sports car or something. When things are still sized near stock, and only capable of acting as that size heatsink, it isn’t uncommon to get cracking around the drilled holes.

Slots will accomplish the same thing without interrupting the grain structure of the metal as much.

Also I once bought a used Acura that had drilled/slotted rotors and I’m sure super cheap pads. I HATED the pulsating brake pedal and whine felt throughout the car caused by the drilling. It was only an issue under hard braking but quite annoying. Installed EBC slotted rotors and green pads and the pedal felt stock again, with greatly improved braking.
 
No for cooling on both. The slots may (I've seen arguments both ways) wipe glaze away should the pad be taken over the max temperature it was designed for. Slots can also increase pad wear. Drilled rotors reduce performance.... they not only reduce the amount of metal that is available to absorb heat, but reduce pad to rotor contact area.
 
The Tundra and LC 200 run the same rear rotors. I was disappointed that my OEM rear rotors needed replacing in less than 40k (was having vibration when braking). Did some research and the Tundra folks seem to be having the same issues running OEM. Had quite a few Tundra owners suggest Bosh rear rotors instead of OEM. That is what I went with. So far so good.
 
Nope

'13 LC: 42431-60290
'16+ LC: 42431-60290
'13 Tundra: 43512-0C020
'16 Tundra: 43512-0C020

Bosch 50011499 fit Land Cruiser 200 OR Tundra OR Sequoia
 
Pffffttt... Go 8-pot calipers, or go home. Yours for the low price of $7100 F&R.

afa7743e-toyota-land-cruiser-wald-international-tuning-7.jpg


WALD BRAKE SYSTEM : HIGH PERFORMANCE SERIES
 
Could the different part numbers be caused by different production locations?

Years ago I went down a rabbit hole of researching aftermarket rotors for a VW. Even a well-known/respected brand like brembo was taking advantage of globalization and doing their castings in Mexico for many oe-replacement rotors.

What I settled on was if I wanted true original quality with all of the “overbuiltness” designed by toyota into a Landcruiser, I had to go OEM. When treated well (no hot rotors into water, don’t stop hard and sit still with your foot on the brake, etc) I’ve never had problems with OEM brakes “warping”. And I do drive my cars pretty hard.
 
This may be a stupid question I already know the answer to but here we go. I’m due for pads and figure at 70k miles and lots of off road and heavy towing I’m going to upgrade pads and rotors. I’ve read all AM and decided on the DBA T3 rotors. Anyway when I’m going to order them they are available for a ‘13 LC but say no match for my ‘13 LX. So after all that the stupid question is, the rotors and past the same for the LX and LC, correct?
 
This may be a stupid question I already know the answer to but here we go. I’m due for pads and figure at 70k miles and lots of off road and heavy towing I’m going to upgrade pads and rotors. I’ve read all AM and decided on the DBA T3 rotors. Anyway when I’m going to order them they are available for a ‘13 LC but say no match for my ‘13 LX. So after all that the stupid question is, the rotors and past the same for the LX and LC, correct?
All the EBC stuff I ordered for my 15LC and Summit listed it for both LX and LC, so my vote is yes.
 
This may be a stupid question I already know the answer to but here we go. I’m due for pads and figure at 70k miles and lots of off road and heavy towing I’m going to upgrade pads and rotors. I’ve read all AM and decided on the DBA T3 rotors. Anyway when I’m going to order them they are available for a ‘13 LC but say no match for my ‘13 LX. So after all that the stupid question is, the rotors and past the same for the LX and LC, correct?

yes - I’m running them on my 2010 LX no problem.
 
What pads are you using? Do you tow? Built heavy?

TRD pads in the rear - very satisfied but my god the brake dust. It’s now on par with the BBK up front in that regard.

No towing, and built as light as possible (no bumpers, no drawers, no aux fuel
 
As a previous track junkie, only full faced disks for me. No cross drilled, no slots. That's unless they are purpose designed with pedigree from OEM or big dollar race or OEM suppliers. Everything else has it done for aesthetics without proper process technology. And will expose their shortcomings in hard use with fatigue and heat cycling wear and damage.

There's too many bad rotors out there even under reputable mainstream brands. I trust Toyota/Lexus to provide consistently great rotors. OEM rotors is what I sourced for my replacement rotors at 100k miles. They are cheap enough that it's a no brainier to replace. Don't even bother resurfacing as it's not worth the effort and minimal more use you may get. Worn or resurfaced rotors have less mass which itself is a key variable to good brakes - mass to sink and temper peak rotor temperatures in heavy brake applications.

Larger overall tires size, i.e. 33s, 35s, etc, will lose brake torque and require heavier effort from the driver. Built rigs will need more brakes, to translate the additional kinetic energy to heat.

The simple solution is more aggressive brake pads. They solve the problem two fold: 1) More aggressive brake compound with a higher coefficient of friction to regain leverage from larger tires 2) Higher maximum operating temperature (MOT) brake pad material to handle the added heat from stopping greater loads (towing in my case). Don't forget to refresh the brake fluid for optimum performance.

TRD pads have proven to be a great option here with higher performance material without too many compromises. It does squeak a tad more every blue moon. Mildly harsher wear on disks. Still great bite on cold brake application. Definitely more brake dust. A good compromise for better brakes.

An opportunity identified by another poster (I can't recall) is that TRD repackages a big name brand brake pad. Specifically StopTech Street Pads.

Interestingly enough, I already had experience using the StopTech Street Pads, but on my Porsche Turbo 911. I downgraded my OEM brake pads on that vehicle because I use it to commute. These pads have a great balance of performance and street manners, and more street oriented than the OEM Porsche Turbo pads which took significant temperature to work well.

LC/LX pre '16 Stoptech (TRD equivelent) pads can be easily had for great prices on Amazon.

Front - Stoptech 309.13030 Street Performance Front Brake Pad
Rear - StopTech 309.13040 Street Performance Rear Brake Pad
 
I'll second Teckis on the TRD pad recommendation. I have them in my 13 and love them, despite the quicker rotor wear. Rotors are surprisingly cheap.

Oh and for those considering OE pads.. mine did not tolerate the way I drive. See pics of very questionable pad wear here: I don't have warped rotors but something odd is going on.
 

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