Rear brake rotor upgrade?

[DecreedIt]

Are y'all doing ebrake shoes and adjust when you do rear rotors? Part #'s? I need everything all around. 162k, rotors have been turned at least twice per records, unclear if ever replaced. Significant pulsing, evident warping. Also what's best source for stainless lines, please and thank you?

 

[codyaustin5]

How have the DBA treated you?

I sold the rig shortly after and got a ‘19. If I had to do it again I would save the money and just use oem again. Oem did great through all the LCDCs and winter/mountain driving for 5 years.

 

[bloc]

Are y'all doing ebrake shoes and adjust when you do rear rotors? Part #'s? I need everything all around. 162k, rotors have been turned at least twice per records, unclear if ever replaced. Significant pulsing, evident warping. Also what's best source for stainless lines, please and thank you?

I reused my old parking brake parts. Pretty sure this is part of why they were a pain to adjust, but I eventually got them working great.

Mine had about 105k on them. Next time I do rear rotors I’ll be putting shoes on it as well.

 

[bloc]

Are y'all doing ebrake shoes and adjust when you do rear rotors? Part #'s? I need everything all around. 162k, rotors have been turned at least twice per records, unclear if ever replaced. Significant pulsing, evident warping. Also what's best source for stainless lines, please and thank you?

Forgot to look up the part numbers.

For all years of 200 the parking brake shoes are 46530-34010 and listed separately.. meaning you'll need four.
If you don't have rust the following parts should be reusable, but some people opt to replace instead of go through the effort of cleaning. Quantities are for the whole rear axle, not just one side.
Lower return spring (2) 90015-DY007
Upper return spring (2) 90506-23052
Shoe holddown spring (4) 90501-20604
Shoe holddown pin (4) 47447-22010
Shoe holddown spring cup (4) 47449-30030

There are some other parts you might need if rust is an issue.. the lower adjusting screw, cam assembly.. they are expensive and not worth PM unless you actually need them.

 

[DecreedIt]

Forgot to look up the part numbers.

For all years of 200 the parking brake shoes are 46530-34010 and listed separately.. meaning you'll need four.
If you don't have rust the following parts should be reusable, but some people opt to replace instead of go through the effort of cleaning. Quantities are for the whole rear axle, not just one side.
Lower return spring (2) 90015-DY007
Upper return spring (2) 90506-23052
Shoe holddown spring (4) 90501-20604
Shoe holddown pin (4) 47447-22010
Shoe holddown spring cup (4) 47449-30030

There are some other parts you might need if rust is an issue.. the lower adjusting screw, cam assembly.. they are expensive and not worth PM unless you actually need them.

awesome thank you Bloc! I need to learn to fish here, is there a best in class online resource for parts lookup? I used to be in the business so used to parts lookup systems (though that was late 90's - early internet days). I don't want to keep grovelling to the forum for part # lookups if I can avoid it.

 

[DecreedIt]

awesome thank you Bloc! I need to learn to fish here, is there a best in class online resource for parts lookup? I used to be in the business so used to parts lookup systems (though that was late 90's - early internet days). I don't want to keep grovelling to the forum for part # lookups if I can avoid it.

Actually this looks pretty decent right on toyota.com - 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser VX 5.7L V8 4WD AT Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear). A set of pads for one or two disc brake - 0446660120 - Genuine Toyota Part

Still if there's a better way to do this I'd love to know.

 

[bloc]

awesome thank you Bloc! I need to learn to fish here, is there a best in class online resource for parts lookup? I used to be in the business so used to parts lookup systems (though that was late 90's - early internet days). I don't want to keep grovelling to the forum for part # lookups if I can avoid it.

What I use isn't available to the public so I'm sorry to say I can't help. I will keep looking up numbers when I have time though..

 

[bjowett]

As a previous track junkie, only full faced disks for me. No cross drilled, no slots. That's unless they are purpose designed with pedigree from OEM or big dollar race or OEM suppliers. Everything else has it done for aesthetics without proper process technology. And will expose their shortcomings in hard use with fatigue and heat cycling wear and damage.

There's too many bad rotors out there even under reputable mainstream brands. I trust Toyota/Lexus to provide consistently great rotors. OEM rotors is what I sourced for my replacement rotors at 100k miles. They are cheap enough that it's a no brainier to replace. Don't even bother resurfacing as it's not worth the effort and minimal more use you may get. Worn or resurfaced rotors have less mass which itself is a key variable to good brakes - mass to sink and temper peak rotor temperatures in heavy brake applications.

Larger overall tires size, i.e. 33s, 35s, etc, will lose brake torque and require heavier effort from the driver. Built rigs will need more brakes, to translate the additional kinetic energy to heat.


An opportunity identified by another poster (I can't recall) is that TRD repackages a big name brand brake pad. Specifically StopTech Street Pads.

Front - Stoptech 309.13030 Street Performance Front Brake Pad
Rear - StopTech 309.13040 Street Performance Rear Brake Pad

Agree with full faced, for the most part... though slots can help on undersized systems that are taken past their limits.

Stoptech/Centric/APC supplies not only the pads, but all of the TRD and Lexus F Sport big brake kits.

If the 9 in the part number is turned upside down, one can get the same pad/compound in a different box that frequently sells for even less. Yes, more dust, a noticeable increase in rotor wear, and a pinch of additional effort on first application in sub-freezing conditions, but really there when needed. Second your recommendation, been selling them for years.

With the big brakes I'm looking at running, the ability to deal with heat is improved substantially. So plans are to try the Centric Extended Wear Pads. Definetly colder than the 309, but above the ceramics.

 

[coleAK]

As a previous track junkie, only full faced disks for me. No cross drilled, no slots. That's unless they are purpose designed with pedigree from OEM or big dollar race or OEM suppliers. Everything else has it done for aesthetics without proper process technology. And will expose their shortcomings in hard use with fatigue and heat cycling wear and damage.

There's too many bad rotors out there even under reputable mainstream brands. I trust Toyota/Lexus to provide consistently great rotors. OEM rotors is what I sourced for my replacement rotors at 100k miles. They are cheap enough that it's a no brainier to replace. Don't even bother resurfacing as it's not worth the effort and minimal more use you may get. Worn or resurfaced rotors have less mass which itself is a key variable to good brakes - mass to sink and temper peak rotor temperatures in heavy brake applications.

Larger overall tires size, i.e. 33s, 35s, etc, will lose brake torque and require heavier effort from the driver. Built rigs will need more brakes, to translate the additional kinetic energy to heat.

The simple solution is more aggressive brake pads. They solve the problem two fold: 1) More aggressive brake compound with a higher coefficient of friction to regain leverage from larger tires 2) Higher maximum operating temperature (MOT) brake pad material to handle the added heat from stopping greater loads (towing in my case). Don't forget to refresh the brake fluid for optimum performance.

TRD pads have proven to be a great option here with higher performance material without too many compromises. It does squeak a tad more every blue moon. Mildly harsher wear on disks. Still great bite on cold brake application. Definitely more brake dust. A good compromise for better brakes.

An opportunity identified by another poster (I can't recall) is that TRD repackages a big name brand brake pad. Specifically StopTech Street Pads.

Interestingly enough, I already had experience using the StopTech Street Pads, but on my Porsche Turbo 911. I downgraded my OEM brake pads on that vehicle because I use it to commute. These pads have a great balance of performance and street manners, and more street oriented than the OEM Porsche Turbo pads which took significant temperature to work well.

LC/LX pre '16 Stoptech (TRD equivelent) pads can be easily had for great prices on Amazon.

Front - Stoptech 309.13030 Street Performance Front Brake Pad
Rear - StopTech 309.13040 Street Performance Rear Brake Pad

Thanks for the advice on pads. I had full faced rotors on all my track cars as well, except for the PCCBs on my GT3. last question for all, I can get the DBA T3 rotors, these stopTech pads^^^, and a full set of Bosch parking brake shoes for $200 less than OEM pads and rotors (Alaska tax...). Local Toyota shop wants $1251 for pads and rotors and out of state low price on OEM wants $375 for shipping.

Would you still go OEM over DBA/stop tech even if it was the same cost or more? Like TeCKis300 I tow a heavy camper a lot of miles, I’ve been doing OEM pads about every 25-30k and turned my rotors at ~50k, I’m at 70k now on the original rotors and they look shot.

 

[TeCKis300]

DBA/stop tech are names I trust. I haven't used them before so I can't really take a position. What would be the value proposition over OEM - better cost? better wear?

I've never driven PCCBs before, or a GT3 for that matter. Arguably the best braking vehicle on earth. Lucky man! Have you shown us a pic of the beaut before?

 

[coleAK]

DBA/stop tech are names I trust. I haven't used them before so I can't really take a position. What would be the value proposition over OEM - better cost? better wear?

I've never driven PCCBs before, or a GT3 for that matter. Arguably the best braking vehicle on earth. Lucky man! Have you shown us a pic of the beaut before?

I looking for better wear, don’t feel I need better performance. Also time frame. I’m off next Thursday and could get the DBA/stop tech here before then. Not sure the Toyota would make it by then. Like everything I have a tendency to overthink/over educate, just don’t want to make a decision based on my own slight convenience that isn’t optimal. Really I have no complaints from the OEM other than short pad life.
My GT3 was a 2007 and my last true sports car (unless you count our model 3). I sold it in 2010 when we moved back to AK.

 

[TeCKis300]

Given your rotor needs, I'd feel comfortable pulling the trigger on DBA/Stoptech as those are brands I trust.

Funny how you mention the Model 3. I often try to convince my wife to borrow her's as it's such a low profile street assassin. I don't often succeed as she wants nothing to do with my cars. Likely faster around town than the P-car, unless I'm ripping it at which point it would confirm to everyone I'm psycho.

 

[coleAK]

Given your rotor needs, I'd feel comfortable pulling the trigger on DBA/Stoptech as those are brands I trust.

Funny how you mention the Model 3. I often try to convince my wife to borrow her's as it's such a low profile street assassin. I don't often succeed as she wants nothing to do with my cars. Likely faster around town than the P-car, unless I'm ripping it at which point it would confirm to everyone I'm psycho.

Haha. Same boat, The only time I get to regularly drive the model 3 is when my wife is traveling for work.

 

[coleAK]

Given your rotor needs, I'd feel comfortable pulling the trigger on DBA/Stoptech as those are brands I trust.

Funny how you mention the Model 3. I often try to convince my wife to borrow her's as it's such a low profile street assassin. I don't often succeed as she wants nothing to do with my cars. Likely faster around town than the P-car, unless I'm ripping it at which point it would confirm to everyone I'm psycho.

Well just to complete the info. When I went to finish my order on autoanything for the DBA rotors the shipping went from Free to $225 and My dealer matched the MSRP for the OEM rotors (~$500) and can get them In 3 days. So I’m going with OEM rotors and the stopTech pads from Amazon.
Also they said the TRD pads are no longer available? Not sure if that is true but they couldn’t order them.

 

[bloc]

I haven't double checked with the staff but rear PTR09-0C110 and front PTR09-0C111 still come up as available when I search on my preferred local dealer website.

Those are the numbers I installed on my truck and they work great.

 

[coleAK]

I haven't double checked with the staff but rear PTR09-0C110 and front PTR09-0C111 still come up as available when I search on my preferred local dealer website.

Those are the numbers I installed on my truck and they work great.

Are those technically Tundra pads? If so that could be it.

 

[afgman786]

I'm running DBA rotors with TRD pads, it was a big improvement in stopping and bite over what was on the truck. I would say I'm at around 6k on the setup and loving it.

@coleAK yes those are technically tundra pads.

 

[bloc]

Are those technically Tundra pads? If so that could be it.

I’m going on memory but seem to recall the tundra application being what we use. Not sure whether this is for just one axle or both.. or if that would change for 16+ Applications.