IDK. You'd need to match to a factory MP.
Rear Brake Job (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Verybadwizard
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Gonna just get a factory one from PartSouq. Even with shipping it’s cheaper than anywhere else. Plus I can throw in some slide pins, hardware etc for no extra shipping.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
So maybe a dumb question but any recommendations on caliper pin grease? I was all ready to order the purple Permatex brake parts grease or whatever but apparently it’s not silicone and ends up seizing the slide pins in short order.
I ordered some sil-glyde brake grease but it’s not going to get here until Tuesday and I’d really like to get back on the road after waiting 10 days for parts from partsouq. Obviously I don’t want to rush it but if the synthetic grease that came with the pads can be used for the slide pins then maybe I just use that?
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shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Thanks Paul! Your recommendations are the only ones I don't go try and independently verify because they come straight from the FSM. I wonder if this stuff is good for other makes as well? I did my wife's Kia recently and used the little squeeze pack that came with the Bosch pads. Might want to pull them and put some proper grease in there.
Can be use on all rubber of 100 series or likely any Toyota or any vehicle. Like to aid in inserting rear sway bar rubber cushion & collar. Or some O-rings, where I'm not using watery dish soap. It's also, as you see in FSM,. Used inside caliper on rubber ring seal. So it's compatible with brake rubber & fluid. A little goes a long way.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I think the little brake grease packets at my local Autozone are Sil-Glyde, about 2 bucks. I did my rear brakes last week and almost bought it but I found a old tube of brake grease in my garage, so I used that instead.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I ended up picking a couple of those up. Thanks for the tip!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Now I am a little paranoid that I might have messed something up. I didn't crack the cap on the master cylinder when I compressed the pistons back in. Is it possible I put too much pressure into the MC? The fluid level did raise when I pushed them back in, but I usually would remove the cap first. My gut tells me that it probably wasn't enough pressure to do any harm, but I am overly paranoid sometimes.
It's much more important to crack open bleeder, of pistons being compressed. If your concerned is; may have push fluid out of reservoir. Inspect your brake control wire contacts, inside boots.
So sorry to jump in this thread but I haven’t seen any other mentions of this in the search, but I screwed up. I depressed the brake pedal without pads in the caliper while trying to orient the rotor to release e- brake. 
I tried cracking the bleeder screw while slowly trying to push piston back in but it won’t budge. I’m not sure what to do. Do I need to replace caliper or can I just remove caliper and push in piston once there is no pressure on it? Sorry to sound ignorant but I’m a rookie and this is my first brake job.
I tried cracking the bleeder screw while slowly trying to push piston back in but it won’t budge. I’m not sure what to do. Do I need to replace caliper or can I just remove caliper and push in piston once there is no pressure on it? Sorry to sound ignorant but I’m a rookie and this is my first brake job.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
So sorry to jump in this thread but I haven’t seen any other mentions of this in the search, but I screwed up. I depressed the brake pedal without pads in the caliper while trying to orient the rotor to release e- brake.
View attachment 3340852
With the bleeder cracked and a piece of wood on the piston, use a c-clamp to press the piston back in.
it wouldn’t depress yesterday when I tried that, but I’ll try again today with fresh eyes on it. Thanks
Piston is likely out past the seal. Seal fits in a groove in the caliper. Piston needs working back in past the seal, gently! I use a little Toyota rubber grease (comes with kit and sold separately) on the seal & piston. Brake fluid is on it now, which may lube enough to slide in easy enough. By rotation & wiggling as you push back in. Bleeder must be open!
forum.ih8mud.com
Make sure to lube the seal
Brake Caliper guru's
So I picked up the caliper slide pins w/rubber bushings today. Not much of a difference in rubber bushing, but some. I'll go ahead and replace and keep old in my spare parts bin. Here what I observed: The rubber is much hard to slide on the new pin. I contribute this to being dry, and too...
forum.ih8mud.com
Make sure to lube the seal
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Thanks @2001LC for the info and tips. Appreciate itPiston is likely out past the seal. Seal fits in a groove in the caliper. Piston needs working back in past the seal, gently! I use a little Toyota rubber grease (comes with kit and sold separately) on the seal & piston. Brake fluid is on it now, which may lube enough to slide in easy enough. By rotation & wiggling as you push back in. Bleeder must be open!
Brake Caliper guru's
So I picked up the caliper slide pins w/rubber bushings today. Not much of a difference in rubber bushing, but some. I'll go ahead and replace and keep old in my spare parts bin. Here what I observed: The rubber is much hard to slide on the new pin. I contribute this to being dry, and too...
View attachment 3341028View attachment 3341025View attachment 3341022View attachment 3341020View attachment 3341043
I just did this job this weekend after reviewing this excellent thread. Here's some of my notes while it's fresh in my mind.
- Need a 17mm thin wrench to hold the slide pin bolt head while you ratchet on/off the caliper mounting bolts. Otherwise the slide pin spins.
- As recommended I installed new slide pins and boots with rubber grease. (glad I did). I noticed the bottom slide pin with rubber bushing has much less wiggle room by hand once installed compared to the top pin, but the installed caliper moves bottom slide pin quite easily compared to by hand!
- I found the parking brake adjustment tricky and feel like I wasted more time that I should have messing with that worrying if it was too tight or too loose... bit frustrating. If it's working good before you start this job, and your able to easily get the rotor off without messing it, maybe leave it alone?
- While bleeding the rears my level dipped below the MIN mark.. oops! It happened early (2nd bottle of brake fluid) in the flush process, so I just continued on. I didn't notice anything strange the additional 4 - 5 bottles I flushed through after this error occurred. I wonder if there is some wiggle room if you do fall a bit below the MIN line that it's not end of the world. I did have the rear jacked up so fluid in the MC was pooled toward front of vehicle, maybe that saved me? Braking feel is great after a test drive.
- My battery had quite had it toward the end of the bleeding process. The truck struggled to start when I was done. Don't let battery sit too long before doing this.
- Need a 17mm thin wrench to hold the slide pin bolt head while you ratchet on/off the caliper mounting bolts. Otherwise the slide pin spins.
- As recommended I installed new slide pins and boots with rubber grease. (glad I did). I noticed the bottom slide pin with rubber bushing has much less wiggle room by hand once installed compared to the top pin, but the installed caliper moves bottom slide pin quite easily compared to by hand!
- I found the parking brake adjustment tricky and feel like I wasted more time that I should have messing with that worrying if it was too tight or too loose... bit frustrating. If it's working good before you start this job, and your able to easily get the rotor off without messing it, maybe leave it alone?
- While bleeding the rears my level dipped below the MIN mark.. oops! It happened early (2nd bottle of brake fluid) in the flush process, so I just continued on. I didn't notice anything strange the additional 4 - 5 bottles I flushed through after this error occurred. I wonder if there is some wiggle room if you do fall a bit below the MIN line that it's not end of the world. I did have the rear jacked up so fluid in the MC was pooled toward front of vehicle, maybe that saved me? Braking feel is great after a test drive.
- My battery had quite had it toward the end of the bleeding process. The truck struggled to start when I was done. Don't let battery sit too long before doing this.
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@2001LC I just replaced the rear brakes and rotors on my 100 including the pads, sliding pins, toyota grease, boots, anti-squeal shims and I attempted to bed them in using your process. Everything seems great, except when I'm slowing down to turn left or right, there is a metal rubbing sound. It only happens when I'm braking and turning (doesn't happen when braking in a straight line and doesn't happen when I turn with no brakes).
Any idea what could be causing this? Never heard this sound before and I didn't touch the fronts.
Any idea what could be causing this? Never heard this sound before and I didn't touch the fronts.
ok so i should remove the wheels and see if either dust shield is bent and then reshape it? what is the backing plate?
Look for wear mark. We this when new rotor installed, or even just cleaning the rust form hub. Dealership turn the rotor, removing some of drums lip. I find wear mark on shield, and pound outward.
Note: Brake dust shield may be perfectly straight, still this can happen.
Note: Brake dust shield may be perfectly straight, still this can happen.
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