Rear Brake Job

[Verybadwizard]

Hello,

I need new rear brakes on my 2004 LX470. I have ordered Centric rotors and Posiquiet Pads. I am pretty much a noob but i can usually follow a good set of instructions. I have been searching around for a good DIY instructional and Youtube video but haven't found what im looking for. Anyone have any info on where i might find that? Also any tips or advice for things i should do while im in there. Like grease bearings or something like that. I would like to do a 2001lc level brake job. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[2001LC]

I'll take that as a compliment, Thank you!

Tips:
Use the FSM, and follow procedure.

Start by evacuating brake accumulator (key off pump brake pedal 40 times, do not turn key on again) This will reduce brake fluid mess if pulling brake line off of caliper and make installing calipers easier during assemble.

Clean as you go and wear glove. Brake are dirty job.

Do only one side at a time Or take lots of pictures. This way you've a side or pictures that can be used for reference.

Sliding Pins in rear caliper are very often frozen, replace or recondition and replace pins boots.

When removing rear drums, release E-brake. If any resistance or frozen on, loosen e-brake adjuster before pulling drums. Toyota gives use two 8x1.25 IIRC bolt holes near lug studs. Run bolts in them to press off drums if need be.

 

[Verybadwizard]

Thank you for the advice!
I searched the site and found a downloadable FSM for 2004 models that will be really helpful.

This is the brake pad set i got. It looks like it comes with the pins you mentioned. Posi Quiet Ceramic Brake Pads
Does this kit that i purchased have everything i need? (assuming the rubber is in good condition i can just clean it up and re-grease w/some 3M silicone paste)

As for evacuating brake accumulator the 40 pumps makes it so when i disconnect the brake line from the caliper not much brake fluid will leak out. Should i pinch the line with clamp to keep air getting in and fluid from getting out?

Thanks again!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

No need to remove the lines from the calipers, unless you're replacing/rebuilding those. Just unbolt and hang them out of the way.

Greasing bell cranks on e-brakes is a good while you're in there for rear brakes.

 

[2001LC]

It "seems" easier to press in piston during assemble when accumulator evacuated, habit of mine. Installing new rotors and pad (thicker) and you'll need to press in piston, to increase open of pads to fit on rotor. This pushes fluid back into system. This another reason to do one side at a time. Otherwise as you press in piston on one side the other side pushes out unrestricted.

Sometimes brake fluid come out if line disconnect, sometimes it doesn't regardless. I had one system with all caliper off for a week nothing came out until around day 7, then it just ran out one then one other. So i like to bag each line I disconnect to keep clean and catch fluid if needed.

TM is correct, you don't need to remove lines, just set aside. But other than it may get messy, it makes little difference assume you'll be bleeding after words, which if line disconnect or piston removed you must bleed. You must also replace the gaskets (two washers on each line) if lines removed.

The piston boot & seal are usually ok. This example I did have line off as was replacing piston seal and boot. Boot had a hole as I recall. But you can see torque plate (AKA cage) slides off and each sliding pin can be unbolted from piston housing. So cage can be separated and piston housing with brake line attached can be left on rig. It's the sliding Pins (AKA pins) that I find need cleaning up or replaced often. (Note: FSM states sliding pins non reusable) This is easier to do on the bench, then in the fender well. The slides have boots that aren't seated properly or boots go bad and is reason the sliding Pin get frozen in.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: You'll see below FSM states sliding Pins non reusable. These are lowers (one for each side) or slave that have rubber bushing on them. The upper don't have bushing on them.

I use a gun barrel brush on a drill. They don't last long so if needed I wrap a piece of emery cloth (220, 360 grit, higher is safer) around the brush to clean bore of Pins in Torque plate (AKA cage).

The pad support plate can be in bad shape also. Clean the best you can or replace.

If caliper are in good shape and torque plate (AKA cage) move freely don't touch. But if your replacing rotor that indicate their worn below limite. I find this take 100 to 160K miles. With those mileage I'll bet sliding pins & boots, bore and pad supports are in sad shape. The shim will not be used with your aftermarket pads so You'll not need those pricey anti squeal shims.

 

[2001LC]

I pulled one side of a rear last night to inspect. History at 557,333km didn't show caliper ever being touched during brake jobs. The cages will not move at all. The backside of relative new rotors (at 17.9mm, new is 18mm, min limte is 16mm) were nasty. I'll be rebuilding all caliper on this one. I'll need to pull front and take a look. Then I'll be ordering parts for all for. I'll finish job with bleeding.

 

[Verybadwizard]

Awesome, thank you!

So if sliding pins seem to be operating correctly i don't need to take it apart. just clean everything up and re-grease. Can i use this grease on sliding pins and boot 3M (3M Clear Silicone Paste) ?

If it is all seized up not moving correctly i would need to replace sliding pins and the associated sliding pin boot.
This also goes for the brake line. If i remove brake line from the caliper i should replace the gasket that goes between brake line and caliper.

This process is making a lot more sense.

Thanks again.

 

[leveeguy]

One Of the most important steps In my opinion is being sure the E brake shoes or not stuck to the rotor or if the rotor or seems to not want to come off you need to release E brake shoes don't force it because you can cause all kinds of issues, Ask me how I know

 

[Verybadwizard]

Thanks. I could see myself doing that.

 

[2001LC]

Awesome, thank you!

So if sliding pins seem to be operating correctly i don't need to take it apart. just clean everything up and re-grease. Can i use this grease on sliding pins and boot 3M (3M Clear Silicone Paste) ?

If it is all seized up not moving correctly i would need to replace sliding pins and the associated sliding pin boot.
This also goes for the brake line. If i remove brake line from the caliper i should replace the gasket that goes between brake line and caliper.

This process is making a lot more sense.

Thanks again.

Correct if they work good you don't have to, but I'd at least replace slide pin boots if they are original factory installed. But keep in mind the FSM states non reusable, this is if disassembled. I've not used that stuff, but I like 3M and see it states brake pin.

Yes any gasket (few expedition) that's been removed Toyota states is non reusable.

So often the caliper is overlooked when replacing Pads & Rotors. Sticky caliper reduce brake pad and rotor life. They'll tend to cause one pad (mostly inner) to wear sooner. I've also done the piston seal & boot, but not very often as I've never seen one leak. I'm working on a set now with 350K miles on them with no record of calipers ever being touched and seal aren't leaking, but the pins are frozen and rotor & pads aren't wearing well.

One think I'm real big on is making sure all bleeders have good rubber caps on. New thing I'm doing is blowing out bleeder with compressed air when done bleeding, spraying in a little brake cleaner, then blowing out with compressed air again and capping. Reason is; I find so many bleeders frozen in and plugged.

You may have seen me de-rust hub and cover with thin layer of grease. This is so rotor doesn't get frozen on hub for next time. I do same with outside of rotor and back side of wheel.

I wipe off grease, so only thin layer remains before installing drum/rotor. Not a good practice to lube the hub, as it reduce clamping force. It's just, I hate rust, so I cheat a little...
Wipe off grease, it just to condition metal after deglazing/derusting.

I always adjust E-brake and replace e-brake rubber plug hole cover. Tighten then back off 8 clicks.
View attachment 1759647

 

[Verybadwizard]

Such great info! The parts arrive tomorrow so we will see how it goes i feel a lot more confident now.

 

[Verybadwizard]

Everything went pretty smooth. Once i got the torque plate off and started testing slide pins and checking for failing rubber boot everything seemed to move freely and actually looked pretty good. i decided that if it looked bad when i took slide pins out (like excessive wear on the pins or if rubber boot was cracking) i would replace them. They actually looked really good so i felt okay just giving them a good cleaning and re-greasing. I thoroughly cleaned caliper and torque plate and cleaned out drum brake area. The rubber caps on the bleeder plug were shot so i cleaned bleeder plug and replaced caps. I also cleaned hub and applied thin layer of grease. One of the best things was learning how to adjust my e-brake. I didn't notice how bad it was working before. Now it works great.

One of the most annoying parts was getting the brake pad support plates oriented properly. After some trial and error i figured out how they attached to the torque plate. I did the first one wrong and used all the smaller ones on the first torque plate (not noticing they where slightly different sizes) and was only left with the bigger ones. Once i went to the next brake it became obvious something was wrong when the support plates that were left would only fit on one side of the torque plate. Newbie mistake.

Im about 100mi into driving and everything seem to be working well. Good braking power and no weird noises or smells.

Thanks again for all the information and direction!

 

[2001LC]

Make sure to seat your pads to rotors, if you haven't already.

 

[Verybadwizard]

On the Centric website on the FAQ page it says

Q. What is the bed-in procedure for new brake pads and rotors?

A. Posiquiet brake pads are scorched at the factory, and will bed-in during a normal post service road test. No special procedure is necessary.

In your experience does this sound legit? Is there a bedding in process you recommend?

 

[2001LC]

I simple drive at ~ 35 MPH and brake without coming to a stop, at least three time in a row. I then try to drive or park without holding brakes on at a stop until they cool. I always do this, but have never had pads & rotor that stated not necessary.

I have had occasion after seating/bedding in, where I then put on large heavier tires like Ko2's and brakes squealed. I then simple reseated, an all was good.

I've also had occasion where pad & rotor were apparently not seated and a hot spot was created on multiple rotors. That is brake were held on at a stop, after rotors and pads heated, before bedding in. Then, when brakes become hot from heavy use they pulsated, which transferred to steering wheel. This "most" call warped rotors. My understanding is more pad material is deposited on one spot of rotor, the spot pad(s) were held on at a stop.

Brakes overheated by riding them to slow rather than gearing down. Once heated it revealed warped rotors. They were then "turned" on the vehicle and all was good.

 

[bucfl]

How in the world do you guys adjust the emergency breaks? I can never get a flat head any where near that little wheel.

 

[2001LC]

I just feel around with flat blade (in the blind). I do this with drum e-brake slot/hole at 6 o'clock. I also like to put in a new rubber plug when done, if bad or missing.

 

[Verybadwizard]

How in the world do you guys adjust the emergency breaks? I can never get a flat head any where near that little wheel.

It takes some fishing around but you will find it. It helps looking at a picture first to know what you are fishing for. The thing that kept me from finding it at first was that i imagined it was deeper then it was and was searching past it.

I simple drive at ~ 35 MPH and brake without coming to a stop, at least three time in a row. I then try to drive or park without holding brakes on at a stop until they cool. I always do this, but have never had pads & rotor that stated not necessary.

I have had occasion after seating/bedding in, where I then put on large heavier tires like Ko2's and brakes squealed. I then simple reseated, an all was good.

I've also had occasion where pad & rotor were apparently not seated and a hot spot was created on multiple rotors. That is brake were held on at a stop, after rotors and pads heated, before bedding in. Then, when brakes become hot from heavy use they pulsated, which transferred to steering wheel. This "most" call warped rotors. My understanding is more pad material is deposited on one spot of rotor, the spot pad(s) were held on at a stop.

Brakes overheated by riding them to slow rather than gearing down. Once heated it revealed warped rotors. They were then "turned" on the vehicle and all was good.

Okay, ill do that process. Seems like a good idea just to make sure its seated.

 

[nissanh]

How in the world do you guys adjust the emergency breaks? I can never get a flat head any where near that little wheel.

Toyota has auto adjusting park brake with the park brake handle. When you pull the brake handle, if there is room for adjustment, it will automatically adjust the brakes.

I am waiting for rear rotors from the dealer. I paid $92 each with shipping. I am tired of aftermarket parts.