rear axle tabs - fabrication

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M

mikeinmilton

Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
16
I need specs on the two tabs that hold the sway bar mount (driver side) and the control arm mount (passenger side) onto rear axle of '97 FZJ, floating with elockers if that make a difference. Thanks for the help
 
You're definitely going to have to be more specific... Pictures help a lot too. Also, what is the purpose? That helps understand the issue as well.
 
control arm bracket that needs fabrication is below.

image.jpg
 
Holy Fork!

You need to replace that bracket with a new truck!.... Sell this one to @Golgo13 'cause it still has less rust than his!
 
Yes, it was used solely to take a boat down the street and into saltwater for years and obviously didn't get a wash down. Rust is worst where it went in at boat ramp. It's been within 1/4 mile from ocean and NE winters its whole life.
 
Holy cancer!!! :eek:
 
Salt kills.
 
Tapage said:
fixed for ya ..

What a way to trash a Cruiser .. I mean can we see the rest .?
Click to expand...
LOL thanks.
Do you really want to see the rest? I mean that's like pulling a crack whores panties off.
 
Last edited:
dear lord...do the existing brackets even have structure left???


and yes, of course we want to see the rest :rolleyes:
 
Wrench said:
LOL thanks.
Do you really want to see the rest? I mean that's like pulling a crack whores panties off.
Click to expand...

Now that you mention it, does kinda remind me of a girl........... Oh never mind!!!
 
I will get more picks up in a day or two. But you west coast chicks with the pristine weather and no rust... best close your hole. I am asking for assistance to keep this truck going and not a ******* comedy skit. Put up something helpful or shut up. Isn't that the purpose of this forum? I am located in Boston area so anyone local, please give response.
 
It's going to be far easier/quicker to just replace the entire axle housing. If the new one comes with hubs/brake components then do a comparison for those as to which to retain. Do a wheel bearing and axle seal service, use your old swaybar / rods and sand/kill the rust/paint as needed, get used ones if they are also really shot.

Going deeper? New suspension bushings maybe on reassembly, might need new shocks. Might need some brake parts / LSBV. Use some anti-seeze. Repair any frame rust.

Get the new stuff all ready to go and swap it out, cut bolts and put new ones in that crap won't come apart easily.


Edit---by get a new axle housing I mean buy a used one that is not rusted to crap. Like from Jason at cruiseryard @arcteryx or a more local part out.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, none of have been real helpful. @jeffro109 is absolutely correct. Because of the sever corrosion that you have, your thickness of the housing left to weld to is also very thin. Even if you can weld yourself, I would recommend changing the entire rear axle housing as well. This will hopefully come with better E-brake hardware, backing plates, and all the other little brackets that hold it together. I would even do the bump stops, sway bar, and sway bar links.

I am guessing you can find a replacement axle in the $400 range. Then do a bench rebuild and slide it under. Maybe even buy a frame from a rolled truck and take what you need, if that's within your time, space, and abilities. Craigslist or local LC club?

Good Luck! I was amazed by the amount of corrosion. It would scare me to drive that with major components like that rusted off.
 
jeffro109 said:
It's going to be far easier/quicker to just replace the entire axle housing. If the new one comes with hubs/brake components then do a comparison for those as to which to retain. Do a wheel bearing and axle seal service, use your old swaybar / rods and sand/kill the rust/paint as needed, get used ones if they are also really shot.

Going deeper? New suspension bushings maybe on reassembly, might need new shocks. Might need some brake parts / LSBV. Use some anti-seeze. Repair any frame rust.

Get the new stuff all ready to go and swap it out, cut bolts and put new ones in that crap won't come apart easily.


Edit---by get a new axle housing I mean buy a used one that is not rusted to crap. Like from Jason at cruiseryard @arcteryx or a more local part out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeffro109
 
BILT4ME said:
Yeah, none of have been real helpful. @jeffro109 is absolutely correct. Because of the sever corrosion that you have, your thickness of the housing left to weld to is also very thin. Even if you can weld yourself, I would recommend changing the entire rear axle housing as well. This will hopefully come with better E-brake hardware, backing plates, and all the other little brackets that hold it together. I would even do the bump stops, sway bar, and sway bar links.

I am guessing you can find a replacement axle in the $400 range. Then do a bench rebuild and slide it under. Maybe even buy a frame from a rolled truck and take what you need, if that's within your time, space, and abilities. Craigslist or local LC club?

Good Luck! I was amazed by the amount of corrosion. It would scare me to drive that with major components like that rusted off.
Click to expand...

Thanks, useful response.
 
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