Rear axle job and pics.

[Rookie2]

Are we required to wear ugly shirts like that or was that just for romantic ambience?

D'oh.. After seeing that picture, I wondered how long it would take before a shirt comment came up. That's my "Jamaica Me Crazy" wrenching shirt man .

Note to self, do a fashion check if "Onur the picture man is coming to town".

Honestly though, kudos to Onur. I get into wrenching, and the last thing on my mind is snapping pictures. I was to busy trying to keep him away from my axles with that BFH... .


R2

 

[OGBeno]

Edit: On a second thought, it might be the anti-squeal goop overdosed

Yuppers...a bit too much.

I wasn't worried so much about flat spots on the housing, but on the bearings which you wouldn't be able to see. The kind of shock you can deliver to the wheel bearings like that is WAY more than even hitting a square edged curb at road speed. Once you've hit it a time or two, the umoving bearings may have displaced their grease and then it's metal to metal from then on. They're designed to roll and spread the load and move grease all at the same time. I'd recommend hard tapping all around more vs hard blows. I'm a little paranoid as I carry an enormous amount of weight back there quite a bit, so.....

Thanks for the explanation Doug. I wasn't aware the of the possible damage...now I know. I'll try it with a smaller hammer next time with more hits rather than a few hard blows. BTW, I had two extra inner and outer bearings/races from Dan, just in case they looked bad or for what you were describing with the metal-to-metal hits.

I was to busy trying to keep him away from my axles with that BFH... .

:whoops:

Beno: Did you get any pics through the axle for both rigs?

Rook2: After you and I looked at each other's respective views through the axle I didn't take a picture for I was unsure if the pics. would actually come out alright at all with such little light and I thought the camera flash might have actually made it worse. IIRC, you unlocked LX had an 'x' like piece of metal or two pieces of metal going through when we look into the housing. My LC had what looked like a mesh-metal pattern inside--more than likely the lockers engaged inside--there was a sort of 'x' pattern embedded inside except they were holes diagonal from each other. That's all I can remember about this.

While I'm on this topic, some other observations/hints: Like Gary noted in another thread, both Rook2 and I misread the FSM's we had and took off the half-part of the caliper holding it to the other half--we took out the ones holding the brake pads and the pistons in it, instead of taking the two bolts that hold the entire caliper onto the brake rotor. Easy to do, I think because they are close and look quite similar to each other. It actually worked fine for me as I was changing out the pads and the rotors and it made for easy disassembly/assembly. After I squeezed the brake pads in, I held the caliper and Rook2 used a long screwdriver to depress the piston so that I could fit the caliper back onto the assembly.

Definitely engage the lockers if you have them. I don't even want to think about what I would have to do to stick the axle back in if I hadn't and the gear had fallen out (I guess--others will chime in on this I assume).

Other than that, the job is rather easy going and straight forward--just follow the FSM on assembly afterwards--ie: the order in which to assemble everything back together. Also, the FSM has stud removal and placement back together in the rear axle section. Rook2 and I didn't replace the axle studs so we were able to skip that entire section. The bearing pre-load was pretty decent. I think we were both within specs. on our first tries...on the upper end at least and we tried to bring them down a bit towards the lower end, but ended up someplace in the middle, which was fine for the both of us. Neither of us replaced either inner or outer bearings or races--just cleaned'em out real good by soaking them in parts cleaner (1 gal. style from Advanced Auto I believe).

Keep with the torque ratings and things are all pretty simple after that. If any one has questions, drop a line.

Best regards.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[TLCgrappler]

I was about to write that the FSM actually specifies to lock the lockers, but after double-checking, it only mentions that in the section on servicing the differential, and is slient about it in both the front and rear axle service sections.

Locking them and making sure the locker is engaged seems like a prudent thing to do, based on experiences noted here.

 

[GXO]

The collar and shift fork in the e-locker are oriented ON the axle. It is possible to have the collar and shift fork to become mis-aligned when you pull the long side axle (rear) or short side axle (front).

The e-locker actuators load a spring that puts tension on the locking collar through the shift fork. When the outer portion of the carrier lines up with the collar, the large teeth engage (CLUNK), and you are locked. To prevent the collar from becoming misaligned locking the diff is a quick and easy step.

I don't see why you can't do it...it prevents a pain the rear upon reinstallation IF things get out of alignment. An ounce of prevention...

 

[Bambusiero]

Here is a picture showing where to position the lock screws, and how to line up the lock ring index marks to the spindle index marks.

Having never been into the rear axle hub before, this was not clear to me even after reading all the FAQs and the FSM. I had to take it back apart the 1st time to figure it out because everything was all gooey with grease. However, once you see the scheme, you can easily find the right holes for the lock screws, even if everything is covered in grease.

The red arrows point to the 4 index notches on the end of the spindle. They are located on the diagonals, at clock positions 1:30, 4:30, 7:30, and 10:30.

The blue arrows point to the 3 index marks on the lock ring.

You line up a lock ring index to a spindle index. Use whichever pair is closest to each other after torquing the lock ring. A new pair is lined up at every 30 degrees of rotation.

Then, the 2 lock screws go in holes at a right angle to the lined up index pair, and you're good to go.

 

[Bear80]

How deep has everyone driven the axle seal into the housing? FSM doesn't specify, and they can be driven in past flush.

 

[Bambusiero]

Mine stopped at about flush. Wouldn't go any further.
I used a piece of 3" size schedule 40 ABS sewer pipe as a seating tool.
It fit just right, on the metal surface outside of the rubber dust ring.

Also, for the inner oil seal (axle shaft) a 1" size PVC slip fitting, like a "tee" joint for instance, fit just right to drive it into the spindle.

 

[Bear80]

Mine stopped at about flush. Wouldn't go any further.

Look at your above picture, the seal is past flush with the spindle.

 

[Bambusiero]

Sorry. I misunderstood and thought you were talking about the big seal into the back of the hub.

For the smaller axle seal, yes, it did go deeper than flush. The inside of the spindle is cylindrical for a short distance, then transitions to a taper to smaller diameter. That taper is what the seal seated against. There isn't a real hard definitive seat. It only required mild tapping to move it in and I drove it in until it seemed to stop. I hope I did it right???

I haven't done the other side yet. Want me to look at anything particular when I get there?

 

[Bear80]

First time I did this was on mine and my sister's at the same time. On both I only put the seals in flush. I just pulled my rear apart 1.5 years later to pull out the diffs and noticed that one seal had allowed some fluid into the hub. I think because of the taper in the spindle, the seal may look evenly installed but might not be. Or the seal flexs in the taper allowing fluid into the hub. I think pushing the seal in past the taper is best.

However, I took a look at the axle and noticed that the first replacement seals rode near the edge of the sealing surface. Meaning that installing the seal further in the spindle will have the seal ride right at the end of the axle's sealing surface.

 

[Bambusiero]

According to cruiserdan, flush is the nominal correct depth:

The factory SST (I have one in my trail box) seats the seal flush with the end of the housing.

And according to DougM, a little deeper than flush, if needed.

If you have any wear on the axle shaft from the seal, you do have the option to set it at a different depth to wear on another spot.

 

[OGBeno]

This isn't rocket science guys.

Flush or a little past is good enough. I use a small piece of wood about 8 inches long and has the same diameter of the seal and tap the sucker in and be done with it.

Cheers.
-onur
Corrales, NM

 

[concretejungle]

This isn't rocket science guys.

Haha, no doubt. But then again, this is the mudboard, full of OCD folks

 

[Bear80]

This isn't rocket science guys.

Well like I said I had one side leaking fluid into the hub after a year. Only found it because I pulled the diffs out, otherwise it probably never would have shown its self for years. I think because of the taper in the spindle the seal can appear flush yet be cocked just slightly.

Toyota usally specifies a depth to drive the seals in or will have a lip to stop the seal from going in further, however in this case there is nothing.

The best thing to do is note where the original seal is placed. Which in my case wasn't done on my part because I assued there would be the typical raised lip behind the seal to stop it, so I have nothing to compair it to.

Also if the SST will only drive the seal in flush, then that's probably the depth to use. However, like I said double double check to make sure the seal is absolutely round in the spindle.

 

[scott67fj40]

Good info guys. I 4 linked and coilovered 80 axles under my fj40, now my back left bearing is shot, I think, "squeaking grinding poping sounds" Whatever it is its not good. I plan on doing a full investigation this weekend. I hope it all goes well.

 

[scott67fj40]

Are all 80 axles full floaters? I have 1991 80 axles under my 40.

 

[Bambusiero]

This isn't rocket science guys.

Don't lose heart men, a little more effort and can get there!

 

[treehugger]

1991 rear is not a full floater

 

[Iguanaexpedition]

hi beno, i'm doing this job right now but i dont know how tight the the lock nut should be.

 

[cpg]

hi beno, i'm doing this job right now but i dont know how tight the the lock nut should be.

1. INSTALL REAR AXLE HUB
(a) Clean the hub installation position of the axle housing and
apply MP grease thinly.
(b) Place the axle hub to the axle housing.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the oil seal.
(c) Install the outer bearing.
2. INSTALL LOCK NUT PLATE AND REAR AXLE BEARING
LOCK NUT
(a) Place the lock nut plate on the axle housing, making sure
the tongue lines up with the key groove.
(b) Temporarily install the lock nut.
3. INSTALL DISC
Install the disc to the rear axle hub and temporarily install the
2 hub nuts.
4. ADJUST PRELOAD
(a) Using SST, torque the bearing lock nut.
SST 09509-2501 1
Torque: 59 N·m (600 kgf·cm, 43 ft·lbf)
(b) Make the bearing smooth by turning the hub several
times.
(c) Using the SST, retighten the bearing lock nut.
Torque: 59 N·m (600 kgf·cm, 43 ft·lbf)
(d) Using the SST, loosen the nut until it can be turned by
hand.
(e) Using a spring tension gauge, check the preload and
tighten the nut until the preload is within the specification.
Preload (at starting):
26-57 N (2.6-5.8 kgf, 5.7-12.8 lbf)
NOTICE:
Make sure that there is no contact with the parking brake
shoe.
(f) Align the mark on the bearing lock nut and tip of axle
housing under the above preload range.
(g) Check the distance between top surface of axle housing
and the lock nut.
Standard distance:
-0.2 - 0.9 mm (-0.0079 - 0.0354 in.)
If the distance is greater than the specification, reassemble the
lock nut plate.
(h) Check that the hub with disc rotates smoothly and hub
has no axial play.
5. INSTALL BEARING LOCK NUT SCREW
Tighten the 2 lock nut screws.
Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in.·lbf)