rear and front difflock without central diff lock engaged

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I just made modify of pin7 on my 80 by using the switch on the dashboard. two days ago i dismantled my rear diff lock engine to clear it inside and..i was thinking... "I'd like to engage rear or front diff lock without central engaged. I think my car should be more...lightness in many drive condition."
What do you think about? I'm looking for the ecu internal circuit for understanding if a +12 or ground in necessary all the time on a pin of ECU.Some ideas??
 
It's your truck and I certainly wouldn't argue with you if you want to do it, but I can't figure out why. Seems like it would make breakage much more likely if you were spinning one tire and suddenly got traction.

-Spike
 
I understand the rear locked alone (the only way to do real nice donuts)

But I am having trouble with your desire to have the front locked alone.

With the pin7 mod you double your variables, throw in the ECT (power button) that changes your shift points in D, the option of OD and/or shifting manually its crazy how broad your selection is already (in theory).

:cheers: for testing the water though.
 
If you want to be able to control the elockers without the CDL engaged then you need to ground the wire connection coming from the CDL switch at the elocker ECU. On 95 through 97 elocker ECU's, it's pin connection 15 and it's a pink wire with a black stripe. You would need to cut that wire (say 12 inches or so from the connector) and then connect the ECU end to ground and leave the other end (the end going to the CDL switch) disconnected.

I used an 80 elocker ECU and switch to control two TRD elockers in my 85 4Runner and had to ground this connection so that they would work.

Take a look at this thread starting at post #45:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches-2.html

You will also find this thread helpful as it has the wiring diagrams in it as well:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html
 
thanks, very useful. Do you think it might be useful or dangerous in offroad?

I can't think of a situation where you would want to lock the rear axle and not have the center diff locked.
 
just thinking out loud here....
with the center open, and the rear locked, one front tire spinning=no traction, right?
unless you have a viscous center, in which case it would be less pronounced.

center open with FF and RR locked means that you would have to lose traction in both FF or both RR to lose traction overall. It might help prevent some binding and might increase turning radius slightly, but not nearly as much as just unlocking the FF would.

seems like a 'because I can' modification
 
I can't think of a situation where you would want to lock the rear axle and not have the center diff locked.


Maybe not a perfect comparison, but with my Aussie Locker rear, I find it very useful to pop the center diff open--but remain in low-range--when I'm making tight turns on high traction surfaces (slickrock) in between obstacles. Much less biding.
 
Maybe not a perfect comparison, but with my Aussie Locker rear, I find it very useful to pop the center diff open--but remain in low-range--when I'm making tight turns on high traction surfaces (slickrock) in between obstacles. Much less biding.

So how do you know that your 80 wouldn't work just as well in those situations without the Aussie?



I'm just giving you a hard time. I really didn't want to start a long discussion on the merits of various locking scenarios. If he wants to make the mod then he now knows how to do it. I'll admit that my comment was designed to, if not discourage him, to at least make him think through whether or not it would really be useful.

Worst case if he doesn't like it is he has to splice the two wires back together.
 
Sure. No worries.
Just adding my applicable experience to the question. I don't have a choice to my rear being locked or unlocked, so utilize my CDL switch often. Ultimately though, it's not a major factor as far as being useful.
 

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