Really Dead, Dead battery (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 25, 2023
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Location
California
Hello. I have an 03 LX 230k that I’ve had for a couple months. I replaced the battery when I bought it with an Interstate 27F from Costco. I didn’t have any issues with the original battery but it was old and bulging a bit so I wanted to play it safe.

I was out of town and didn’t drive it for about 2 weeks and the battery was dead. I was only getting about 2.4 on my multimeter so I pulled it and took to an auto parts store to check it out. They felt, as I did, that it had a bad cell. Costco’s return policy is very easy so I’m back and running and things look good now.

I assume this was just a defective battery since it was just a month or 2 old but is there anything I should check? I plan to just check it once a week and see if I’m dropping. It never had any power or starting issues and the gauge always seemed correct. It’s fully stock besides the Grom Bluetooth adapter.
 
If it's new, and if it is full of electrolyte, the only way a cell would be "bad" is if the connection was broken. The way these things are manufactured, that's hard to imagine.
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I'd keep an eye the new one. You may have a parasitic drain. I have a 3-year old battery that hasn't been charged in months, while the driveline was down for maintenance. It took two days and a bit, but it came back up to 100% on the charger.
 
Are your door locks working properly? When their motors are weak, especially when it’s hot out, using the lock/unlock switch will continue to send power to any worn out motor. I always will manually lock doors because of this.
 
Are your door locks working properly? When their motors are weak, especially when it’s hot out, using the lock/unlock switch will continue to send power to any worn out motor. I always will manually lock doors because of this.
Good info, mine are older (if I open or close them rapidly they get stuck) I’m pretty rural and rarely lock my truck most days.
 
Thanks all. That's good info on the battery. Maybe it was some other type defect but I really don't know. Costco didn't test it or even ask me a single question.

I replaced all the door actuators when I first got it except the rear hatch. I don't have a fob so I only manual open the doors.

It's showing 13.46 on my multimeter when it's running. It's showing the same (rounded off) on my OBD2 Fusion app and looks a hair under 14 on the gauge. The battery is showing 12.7 when it's off.

I haven't been able to drive it since I put the new battery in this morning except a quick trip down the street to make sure nothing else was acting up.
 
I just chased down a parasitic drain in my 05 - my battery was dying every 3-4 days.

Turned out to be the CD changer in the glove box (which didn't work anyways). Key off, doors closed / locked I went from pulling 520 mA with CD changer plugged in all the way down to 20 mA once I unplugged the CD changer connector!
 
I just chased down a parasitic drain in my 05 - my battery was dying every 3-4 days.

Turned out to be the CD changer in the glove box (which didn't work anyways). Key off, doors closed / locked I went from pulling 520 mA with CD changer plugged in all the way down to 20 mA once I unplugged the CD changer connector!
Thanks. Sorry if this is too broad of a question but how were testing how much it was pulling? I’m not great with electrical and haven’t ventured off the voltage testing yet.
 
Thanks. Sorry if this is too broad of a question but how were testing how much it was pulling? I’m not great with electrical and haven’t ventured off the voltage testing yet.
I used a multimeter (~$30 off amazon) on the negative battery side and then started pulling fuses one by one to see which one would cause the drop
 

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