Hey all, I have been trying to rid the LX of a voltage issue over the last couple of weeks. I have a dual battery set-up (going on 3 years) that has a disconnect and I have kept that disconnected throughout this process. I have a volt meter to read both batteries mounted on the dash so I can see what is happening under the hod at all times and that is what alerted me of an issue. Up until recently, the voltage has read in the 12's at idle and 14.1 when the alternator was charging the system. I had read that was normal, this has been the case since I installed the gauge on the dash.
Now to the issue, I noticed that the voltage at the Main battery started jumping up and then back down and was fluctuating quite a bit. It would reach high 15's and would drop to 11.8 at the lowest while driving. It then went from bad to worse, it got all the way to 18.7 (seems too high haha). I had seen a few potential resolutions for this, so I started going one by one.
First, I bought a new battery, it was getting old, so I put a new 24F DieHard Platinum AGM in there. Still fluctuated
Second, I read that corrosion at the terminal and in the fusible link box attached to the positive terminal can cause mayhem, so I replaced the positive terminal and the fusible link box and fuses. Still fluctuated
Third, Replaced the alternator with a reman from Toyota. When I pulled it out, I noticed that the connector was broken (as they do) so I ordered a new one and installed it when I put the alternator in. I also made sure I was getting a good connection at the negative battery terminal, cleaned that all up.
That brings me to today, the fluctuation has stopped after step 3. It now holds at 14.1-14.2 at all times, idle or driving. So that is different from before. That said, I have seen in posts that running 14 constantly is also normal. So, ok, I'm ok with that.
The issue is, the battery light is still on!!! But why? The ground right there at the fender looks fine, there is the main ground that disappears into the wire harness, but where does that go? Is that what goes to the alternator? I have read that grounds can be the root of a light.
Any thoughts on what else may cause the light to stay on?
Thank you all in advance for any insight!
Now to the issue, I noticed that the voltage at the Main battery started jumping up and then back down and was fluctuating quite a bit. It would reach high 15's and would drop to 11.8 at the lowest while driving. It then went from bad to worse, it got all the way to 18.7 (seems too high haha). I had seen a few potential resolutions for this, so I started going one by one.
First, I bought a new battery, it was getting old, so I put a new 24F DieHard Platinum AGM in there. Still fluctuated
Second, I read that corrosion at the terminal and in the fusible link box attached to the positive terminal can cause mayhem, so I replaced the positive terminal and the fusible link box and fuses. Still fluctuated
Third, Replaced the alternator with a reman from Toyota. When I pulled it out, I noticed that the connector was broken (as they do) so I ordered a new one and installed it when I put the alternator in. I also made sure I was getting a good connection at the negative battery terminal, cleaned that all up.
That brings me to today, the fluctuation has stopped after step 3. It now holds at 14.1-14.2 at all times, idle or driving. So that is different from before. That said, I have seen in posts that running 14 constantly is also normal. So, ok, I'm ok with that.
The issue is, the battery light is still on!!! But why? The ground right there at the fender looks fine, there is the main ground that disappears into the wire harness, but where does that go? Is that what goes to the alternator? I have read that grounds can be the root of a light.
Any thoughts on what else may cause the light to stay on?
Thank you all in advance for any insight!
