Real-time Wheel removal problem...

[Markuson]

Trying to rotate tires, and NEITHER front Rock Warriors want to come off! It's like they've glued themselves to the hub even without any lugs. Had similar problem once before on one side and ended up using a long, heavy pry bar. I'm here at Discount tire and they can't get either front wheel off.

Question... How many have had this issue, and what do you suggest to avoid it in the future??

Last time it seemed like it has rusted or had some sort of residue at the contact point.

???

 

[Ali FJ80]

Can they lower the truck very slowly just to put enough weight on the wheels to crack them free? I had to take a big rubber mallet to the back side of wheels in the past but never had an issue specific to the RW wheels.

 

[Markuson]

Can they lower the truck very slowly just to put enough weight on the wheels to crack them free? I had to take a big rubber mallet to the back side of wheels in the past but never had an issue specific to the RW wheels.

Ya, only mention RWs because I haven't run into it before.

Had a similar thought, but they were afraid the bolts might dig into the wheels when they finally released. Just now got them off with a big pry bar again...and using a metal brush drill bit to clean off all the crud on the wheels and hubs. What's odd is that it's only ever happened on the front.

Thanks for responding.

Still curious how common this is, as it seems the contact points in front attract/create(?) rusty, stick crud... (For lack of a proper term...)

 

[oppositelock]

Very common. Aluminum when it oxidizes grows slightly dimensionally. After cleaning the crud off, put a very, very light coat of anti-seize around the steel hubs on the truck before remounting the wheels. You'll never experience this problem again. Be careful to not get anti-seize on the studs though.

 

[Markuson]

Very common. Aluminum when it oxidizes grows slightly dimensionally. After cleaning the crud off, put a very, very light coat of anti-seize around the steel hubs on the truck before remounting the wheels. You'll never experience this problem again. Be careful to not get anti-seize on the studs though.

Thanks for feedback/info. "Anti-Seize..." Just ordered a can.

Another Q...
Having never lived in a salted area...and just having driven through nasty road treatments in Denver area due to snow (which, according to Christo is actually WORSE stuff than regular road salt)... Any thoughts on the best way to clear the sprayed nastiness in and around the engine compartment? It just occurred to me that washing/spraying the underside did not remove any of of the engine compartment spray. Seems like pretty bad stuff...

I'm reading online that simply using water at low pressure is good. Any snow-guys have a lock on this nasty stuff? Thanks!

 

[Ali FJ80]

For the engine bay in my cars I just use the hose on the areas with no exposed electronics and have not had any issues. The rest I wipe down with a damp towel till its all clean. I have friends that just blast the engine bay with a pressure washer from a few feet back but this seems like its asking for trouble.

 

[Atwalz]

I had an issue with one of wheel, when my powder coating shop coated the rim bore even after telling them not to. That particular rim was an issue every time I rotate tires. I end up rough sanding the wheel bore and now longer an issue. Also, try putting some anti-seize on the hub for easy removal for next time.

 

[Markuson]

I had an issue with one of wheel, when my powder coating shop coated the rim bore even after telling them not to. That particular rim was an issue every time I rotate tires. I end up rough sanding the wheel bore and now longer an issue. Also, try putting some anti-seize on the hub for easy removal for next time.

Thanks for the reply. I did clean all the rust/crud off of both the contact points on the wheel and the hub assembly using a wire-brush drill bit. I have ordered some anti-seize and will apply it when it arrives.

I did end up hosing down the engine bay with very low pressure...and shot water up underneath everywhere. It's the parts I can't see or easily access that I worry about. On the other hand... I only traveled through it for a few days. ** I have a feeling if I lived where roads are salted, I'd be going all OCD about it & might drive myself nuts...

Thanks again for responding.

 

[M1911]

This happens all the time. What I do is take a sledge hammer, and very gently swing it horizontally under the truck until it hits the tire (not the wheel). It doesn't take much of a tap to pop the wheel off.

Then I use a wire brush to brush the rust off the hub, and coat the hub with a thin layer of anti-seize. You don't want much anti-seize -- you really don't want it to get flung off onto the disk.

 

[Markuson]

Ya... Gonna keep a pry-bar in my rig... Would be kind of ridiculous if a flat couldn't be changed in the field bc of a stuck wheel...
If it was truly flat...I'm thinking hitting just the tire wouldn't work--but with a long pry bar, I can wedge it instead of sledge it.

The idea of anti-seizing my lugs(!!) is kinda scary... Will use sparingly!

 

[arich]

Anti-seize or a little grease on the hub mounting surface and centering bore and you wont have an issue again. Tolerances are definitely tighter than the OEM. Watch the welds on your chassis start to rust now. The protection from the factory sucks. Get under there with a good anti-corrosion paint and spray it up.

 

[Markuson]

Anti-seize or a little grease on the hub mounting surface and centering bore and you wont have an issue again. Tolerances are definitely tighter than the OEM. Watch the welds on your chassis start to rust now. The protection from the factory sucks.

Get under there with a good anti-corrosion paint and spray it up.

Good idea... Will do that.

 

[Rigger]

I put an RW on my Tundra to check clearance. It was very hard to get it back off.

 

[chilibit]

Psychologically they do have that effect.

 

[Desert Nomad]

Might engine degreaser help removing the chemicals?

I've used the 3m foaming one and that's very strong. Melted all the caked on tar like crud in my bmw's engine bay from a power steering leak.

 

[c4xplsv]

I had the same issue with my RW's - I ended up kicking the tire with my heel and it came loose after a couple times. Some good ol anti seize on the hub that interacts with the wheel bore will prevent it in the future. This was only after about 1000 miles or so - it wasn't on there for years. Probably a month...

 

[Markuson]

I had the same issue with my RW's - I ended up kicking the tire with my heel and it came loose after a couple times. Some good ol anti seize on the hub that interacts with the wheel bore will prevent it in the future. This was only after about 1000 miles or so - it wasn't on there for years. Probably a month...

Ya, mine too. I had those same two wheels off in February when I just them all mud-bogged...so it's only been a short time to get stuck like that...

 

[TJsTACOMA]

I had my passenger front off on Sunday and I had to give it a good kick, but it came off

 

[Markuson]

I had my passenger front off on Sunday and I had to give it a good kick, but it came off

Ya, the first time it happened, I kicked the living doo-doo out of it, but it wouldn't budge. And heck, I'm 6'3" & 250.

 

[oppositelock]

The idea of anti-seizing my lugs(!!) is kinda scary... Will use sparingly!

You DO NOT want to put anti-seize on your studs or lug nuts. A light coat of anti-seize only for your hubs on the truck where the open center part of the wheel mates. Nothing fancy for the anti-seize, just the standard grey anti-seize (aka nickel version) available at any auto parts store will work perfect.