If you put the truck in gear will it roll or is the engine locked up?
Real Time Help - 40 won't start....
- Thread starter CruiserStuff
- Start date
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Mark A - Thanks for the tip - I'll give it a try. And, by the way, the carb you rebuilt for me is "like butter." You are the master! I bought a remote start button and put it on the starter last night. I get juice (the "ga-gunk" sound), but it still won't crank....since it is a brand new rebuilt starter, I'm wondering if the problem is more serious (something seized perhaps?).
If you roll it and pop the clutch willl it start? That might answer the seized question.
- Thread starter
- #23
I'll have to take a pic for you guys to see where the truck is located...it is on the flat section of a private road - I plowed a path down the road (my plow blade is 6.5 feet wide - just wide enough for the truck to fit behind it) and I have walls of snow/ice on both sides of the truck (makes getting in/out and working on it a real pain). 
I can probably get a friend to tow me up the hill at one end and try to roll it/pop it...that will work even if the starter is the problem, won't it? 
I can probably get a friend to tow me up the hill at one end and try to roll it/pop it...that will work even if the starter is the problem, won't it?
I'll have to take a pic for you guys to see where the truck is located...it is on the flat section of a private road - I plowed a path down the road (my plow blade is 6.5 feet wide - just wide enough for the truck to fit behind it) and I have walls of snow/ice on both sides of the truck (makes getting in/out and working on it a real pain).
It still won't run if your ignition is the issue which is what I believe is your problem. Your post about the starter engaging but not turning over the motor led me to believe your motor may be locked up. Or you may have really bad luck with starters but I don't think that is the case.
I didn't think about how hard it would be to pop it. Just seemed like a way to eliminate a possible issue.
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- #26
Well, it can't hurt to roll and pop it to rule out the seized motor question....I'll give that a try.
I swapped out the ignition switch from my '78 and that didn't help....swapped the voltage regulator and that didn't work....swapped the coil wire and that didn't help....running out of options here!!
I swapped out the ignition switch from my '78 and that didn't help....swapped the voltage regulator and that didn't work....swapped the coil wire and that didn't help....running out of options here!!
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
I know you mentioned checking battery cables, but does the ground cable between the frame and engine(by clutch slave) have a good connection? Lots of times its overlooked and only the battery + and - cables are checked.
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- #28
You know, I did check that, but I'll double check it because I did just have the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced....thanks....
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
You said the starter was rebuilt, did they put on a new solenoid at the same time? Did you check the voltage as Mark suggested? That would rule out any bad ignition switch. Even a test lamp would show juice there, right?
You could check the seized aspect by just putting the rig in fourth and trying to bump it/quick shove it to see if you get rotation. Not having a plow blade in front of mine while I bump it to do my valve lash is surely easier, but with the hood raised to see, you should see some engine movement...
Just some more thoughts.
You could check the seized aspect by just putting the rig in fourth and trying to bump it/quick shove it to see if you get rotation. Not having a plow blade in front of mine while I bump it to do my valve lash is surely easier, but with the hood raised to see, you should see some engine movement...
Just some more thoughts.
Sounds like no 12V from the start position on the ignition switch to the solenoid, or a bad connection/wire since you are getting some response from it
Yes you can bump or pull start it if you have voltage in the run pos of the ignition and it sounds like you do since lights, fan etc work.
If not then just run a wire from your battery to the pos side of your coil (temp) to then pull start it.
You could also rig up a wire through a remote starter (like you use for engine work) or a heavy duty switch from the battery to the start sw terminal on your solenoid, you can run this into the cab and turn your ignition to on and hit the switch and it will start and run just like using the ignition switch. If it is a spring loaded momentary switch --even better
Thats assuming you need a temp solution until you can fix the ignition sw or sw wiring, might be a bit
but it'll get er done!
a little wire and about 2 minutes to get it going is all it should take.
then take a meter or test light and check for 12 volts at the solenoid terminals with the key in start and with the key in Run that'll tell you which one is the start wire if the solenoid is not marked.
try running a new wire from the solenoid to the st terminal on the ignition switch. If that does not work you can shoot through the input and output of the switch and confirm it bad.
Or just keep using your button switch
Yes you can bump or pull start it if you have voltage in the run pos of the ignition and it sounds like you do since lights, fan etc work.
If not then just run a wire from your battery to the pos side of your coil (temp) to then pull start it.
You could also rig up a wire through a remote starter (like you use for engine work) or a heavy duty switch from the battery to the start sw terminal on your solenoid, you can run this into the cab and turn your ignition to on and hit the switch and it will start and run just like using the ignition switch. If it is a spring loaded momentary switch --even better
Thats assuming you need a temp solution until you can fix the ignition sw or sw wiring, might be a bit
but it'll get er done!a little wire and about 2 minutes to get it going is all it should take.
then take a meter or test light and check for 12 volts at the solenoid terminals with the key in start and with the key in Run that'll tell you which one is the start wire if the solenoid is not marked.
try running a new wire from the solenoid to the st terminal on the ignition switch. If that does not work you can shoot through the input and output of the switch and confirm it bad.
Or just keep using your button switch
- Thread starter
- #32
Well guys, got some help from a friend last night to tow the truck to a place where I could get a little downhill roll and tried pop-starting the truck.......the engine is definitely seized 
This, however, makes absolutely no sense to me. I haven't even put 1000 miles on this truck since I bought it (only a few months ago) and it was full of oil when I brought it home. The PO even commented that it was the only Land Cruiser he's ever owned that didn't drip oil on his driveway.
It wasn't smoking or shooting oil out of the tailpipe....I'm perplexed. I have no idea where the oil went.
I had the clutch/flywheel replaced when I first got the truck, but that's the only job that's been done to it that's even close to the oil pan....and the mechanic said they didn't drain the oil (I was wondering if they had and forgot to fill it back up - like they'd admit to something like that).
So HELP! Where'd the oil go? And more importantly, I guess, who has a solid 2F they want to get rid of....
This, however, makes absolutely no sense to me. I haven't even put 1000 miles on this truck since I bought it (only a few months ago) and it was full of oil when I brought it home. The PO even commented that it was the only Land Cruiser he's ever owned that didn't drip oil on his driveway.
It wasn't smoking or shooting oil out of the tailpipe....I'm perplexed. I have no idea where the oil went.
I had the clutch/flywheel replaced when I first got the truck, but that's the only job that's been done to it that's even close to the oil pan....and the mechanic said they didn't drain the oil (I was wondering if they had and forgot to fill it back up - like they'd admit to something like that).
So HELP! Where'd the oil go? And more importantly, I guess, who has a solid 2F they want to get rid of....
Well guys, got some help from a friend last night to tow the truck to a place where I could get a little downhill roll and tried pop-starting the truck.......the engine is definitely seized
This, however, makes absolutely no sense to me. I haven't even put 1000 miles on this truck since I bought it (only a few months ago) and it was full of oil when I brought it home. The PO even commented that it was the only Land Cruiser he's ever owned that didn't drip oil on his driveway.
It wasn't smoking or shooting oil out of the tailpipe....I'm perplexed. I have no idea where the oil went.
I had the clutch/flywheel replaced when I first got the truck, but that's the only job that's been done to it that's even close to the oil pan....and the mechanic said they didn't drain the oil (I was wondering if they had and forgot to fill it back up - like they'd admit to something like that).
So HELP! Where'd the oil go? And more importantly, I guess, who has a solid 2F they want to get rid of....
Ouch! Is there any oil reading on the dipstick? Have you pulled the drain plug yet and did anything come out? When was the last time you checked the oil level? It either leaked out or you burned it up in the cylinders. Does the truck have a working oil pressure gauge and what did it read recently?
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- #34
I looked at the dipstick last night - dry. I checked the oil when I bought it in....I think it was October of this year, but like I said, I haven't even put 1000 miles on it yet. I haven't pulled the drain plug yet to see how much comes out, but will tonight. I can't imagine that I would burn that much oil in that short amount of time. I thought the oil pressure guage was working and didn't see anything unusual on it and there definitely aren't any visible "wet spots" on the undercarriage of the truck that I can see...and no puddles of oil anywhere either. Weird....
If you only put on 1k miles then you would be burning so much oil it would foul your plugs or you would have to see some smoke. I bet your mechanic drained the oil and did not refill with 8qts but probably 4 or whatever a V8 takes and you probably burned through that. Just a guess. Pull your drain plug and see if you have any oil in there.
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- #36
That's my guess, too, but getting him to admit it is gonna be another thing....
If there wasn't any drama leading up to the seizure (smoke, etc), you may still have a fairly relatively easy fix. Get it to a place warm you can work. I wouldn't try to start it again. Find out what oil's left in there, there's probably some. Take off the flywheel cover and put it in neutral. See if you can turn it by hand. Report back.
It may be that at worst you have to replace one or more of the main bearings, which you can do without pulling the engine.
It may be that at worst you have to replace one or more of the main bearings, which you can do without pulling the engine.
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- #38
Hey IDave - Good input....at this point, that's the plan. I think I'll try sourcing a good engine just in case, but you're right, the existing engine could still be salvaged. I just need to get the truck up and operational again before another storm comes....one storm's worth of plowing will more than pay for a new engine (if it comes to that).
Damn - Sorry to hear.
When I purchased my 40 I drove it about the same amount. Engine was "rebuilt" with 30k on it. I pulled the pan hoping to fix some leaks and I found a piston skirt and other various metal parts. I ended up putting in a new crate motor. I hope your solution is cheaper.
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- #40
Hey bigassbike - I hope you're right that the $$ don't go through the roof.... thank God I was able to plow this last big storm and racked up a few bucks....time to get the invoices out and the checks in!
