I dont suppose you have your reciept when the oil was changed? look at how many quarts he billed you for and you have a good case in him footing some of the bill.
Real Time Help - 40 won't start....
- Thread starter CruiserStuff
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cruiserbrett
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have you checked the coolant for oil?
- Thread starter
- #43
Not yet, but will do so today. I had the water pump replaced less than 500 miles ago, so if something was wrong before then, I would have seen it when the antifreeze was replaced......would oil in the antifreez make it look orange?
oil
pull the plug and see what comes out. I put like four qts in and checked the dipstick and it didnt even register
even low though I think you should have had pressure
I have seen cars run on very very little oil but i cant attest to the cruisers tolerance
you could pull the oil pan and look at the bearings and the underneath of the pistons and so on
has the distrib been removed recently? It drives the pump
pull the plug and see what comes out. I put like four qts in and checked the dipstick and it didnt even register
even low though I think you should have had pressure
I have seen cars run on very very little oil but i cant attest to the cruisers tolerance
you could pull the oil pan and look at the bearings and the underneath of the pistons and so on
has the distrib been removed recently? It drives the pump
4 qts of oil won't register on a dipstick if the engine went dry. I think mine holds 8.5 qts. Oil can be shot out of the head via a small plug between #4 and 5 cylinders, it plugs a galley that feed the rocker arm assmebly. If that plug comes out the oil pump will pump your oil out. I would think that this would make a pretty big mess under your hood though.
If your engine is seized time to go with a SBC!
If your engine is seized time to go with a SBC!
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nother thot, since I know a little more history on this truck than the rest of the MUD readers. You and Jesse had quite a bit of fussing with the rig when you got it, and a bit more dealing with smog.
At one or more of those points, someone probably messed with the timing to try and get the rig to run 'better'. A loose dizzy clamp can often lead to a loose dizzy. And a loose dizzy in a cruiser means no oil pressure!
Think hard. Who would have been the last one to 'play' with the timing.
Mark
P.S. As IDave alluded to, there are a couple of threads in this forum on guys who have unstuck motors with bad bearings. More patience than $$, and plenty of guys on here to give you .02 if you're willing to take pics of the situation as it unfolds.
At one or more of those points, someone probably messed with the timing to try and get the rig to run 'better'. A loose dizzy clamp can often lead to a loose dizzy. And a loose dizzy in a cruiser means no oil pressure!
Think hard. Who would have been the last one to 'play' with the timing.
Mark
P.S. As IDave alluded to, there are a couple of threads in this forum on guys who have unstuck motors with bad bearings. More patience than $$, and plenty of guys on here to give you .02 if you're willing to take pics of the situation as it unfolds.
- Thread starter
- #47
Hey Mark - Great thoughts...even though I'm pretty gentle with the rig when plowing, the constant pushing, etc, could have thrown the timing off if the dizzy clamp was loose, I might think. Other than that, I haven't been anywhere near the dizzy with the other repairs I've done. Another MUDDER gave me a line on a local engine for sale...maybe I'll drop that one in now (so I can keep plowing) and then rebuild the existing block to see what went wrong (and to have a spare engine).
Have you tried to rotate the engine other than by bump starting it? What gear did you use when you tried? I had my 72 F engine 4 quarts low once and with no damage. Check to see if your distributor is fully seated like Mark said.
Check the classifies for 40s being parted for an engine.
Kevin
Check the classifies for 40s being parted for an engine.
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #49
I'm gonna dive into the truck tonight to see how much oil comes out of it and to try rotating the engine by another method. I'll also check the dizzy as Mark suggested. I'll let you guys know what I find out tomorrow.
I've already started sourcing another engine and think I might have a line on one that isn't too far away....
Thanks for everyone's input - it has been a HUGE help!!!
I've already started sourcing another engine and think I might have a line on one that isn't too far away....
Thanks for everyone's input - it has been a HUGE help!!!
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I KNOW how cold it's been up there but....
is it tomorrow yet?
;p
is it tomorrow yet?
;p
- Thread starter
- #51
Mark A. - LOL! Cold, but not that cold!! I've been tied-up with some other crap, but I'll probably be wrenching on this thing in the next day or two. I'll definitely let you know what I find....
By the way, I landed a used 2F with the tranny, transfer case, carb, starter, alternator, etc on ebay just a little while ago (thanks to Texican seeing my "wanted to buy" post). I figured I can drop this in now and then have a bunch of good parts to rebuild with my son over time. Small world....the seller is Jonathan at TLC.
How many hours labor would you estimate to "out with the old and in with the new" in your experience?
By the way, I landed a used 2F with the tranny, transfer case, carb, starter, alternator, etc on ebay just a little while ago (thanks to Texican seeing my "wanted to buy" post). I figured I can drop this in now and then have a bunch of good parts to rebuild with my son over time. Small world....the seller is Jonathan at TLC.
How many hours labor would you estimate to "out with the old and in with the new" in your experience?
2f
wow great luck getting it with all the accessories
just to pull the motor and put it in complete with tranny and all
call it a saturday if all goes right
you may need some extra time fiddling with little stuff. If your motor mounts dont line up exactly loosen the bolts on the bracket to the engine
make sure you got a good speedo and emer brake cable for an easy life and of course might as well look at rear main seal, clutch wear, ring gear condition etc before it goes in
not sure what year you are getting but before it comes might want to think about what ignition differences, internal or external volt reg etc and how you want it set up
wow great luck getting it with all the accessories
just to pull the motor and put it in complete with tranny and all
call it a saturday if all goes right
you may need some extra time fiddling with little stuff. If your motor mounts dont line up exactly loosen the bolts on the bracket to the engine
make sure you got a good speedo and emer brake cable for an easy life and of course might as well look at rear main seal, clutch wear, ring gear condition etc before it goes in
not sure what year you are getting but before it comes might want to think about what ignition differences, internal or external volt reg etc and how you want it set up
If it isn't solved by now, I'll add two cents worth. I had a similar problem on another truck and it was a sick starter. Apparently the center piece (armature?) can short on one position only and when in that position it will not spin. A voltage check will reveal a large voltage drop when you try to start it.
Being very poor at the time, I discovered that if I struck the side of the starter with a hammer and my wife simultaneously tried to start it, it moved the starter just enough to allow it to get off the shorted spot and spin. After a month or so of starting the truck this way we decided that perhaps another starter was in the budget.
What is snow?
Being very poor at the time, I discovered that if I struck the side of the starter with a hammer and my wife simultaneously tried to start it, it moved the starter just enough to allow it to get off the shorted spot and spin. After a month or so of starting the truck this way we decided that perhaps another starter was in the budget.
What is snow?
- Thread starter
- #54
Blue Ox - Already eliminated the starter as the problem....found the engine was seized. 
Thanks for the input, though. Oh, and by the way, this is snow:
and this is my rig in the snow:
Thanks for the input, though. Oh, and by the way, this is snow: and this is my rig in the snow:
Blue Ox - Already eliminated the starter as the problem....found the engine was seized.
and this is my rig in the snow:
Nice truck. When you rolled down the hill and popped the clutch, what gear were you in?
- Thread starter
- #56
Low 4, 2nd gear....
Hmm. IMO your symptoms don't really sound like an engine seizing up, so I'm skeptical:
When you pop the clutch the engine has to spin up to speed damn near instantly - the loads are huge. Since you were in a low gear (you were in an equivalent gear BELOW 1st: Low 4, 2nd gear ratio = ~4.2 while 1st gear HI = ~3.5) your engine would have had to spin up to a blazing-fast RPM instantly - its going to fight you even if its not seized!
You should have done it in 2nd or 3rd (or even 4th gear), HI range. Hope you didn't waste any $$, I bet your engine would have spun fine if you were in a higher gear.
(I know its confusing, but when you bump-start you've gotta be in a high gear, not a low one. All the torque multiplication we like from gearboxes for crawling work in reverse when you're starting and turn into torque DIVISION)
- Thread starter
- #58
Well, I definitely will check that out....your explanation makes sense....even if this engine is okay, I'll have some good spares.....
Low 4 and 2nd would lock the tires even on pavement. Try it again in high 4 and 3rd.
Kevin
Kevin
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- #60
will do....
