justbecause
perpetually lost.
well at least if its just bad fuel you should know after running it for a few hours, 94s arent exactly easy on gas.
Random misfire, bad idle, terrible acceleration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter msrebecky
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well at least if its just bad fuel you should know after running it for a few hours, 94s arent exactly easy on gas.
- Thread starter
- #42
Ok. The problem seems to be completely sporadic now. Drives fine for a few miles sometimes and then sometimes starts almost immediately after cranking it.
I did notice that this hose on top of the engine that runs from the valve cover to the throttle body seemed very oily, especially at the 90 elbow that runs into the throttle body. This tube is also not the correct size and is a little loose. Could be the source of a vacuum leak. Would it be a bad idea to install an inline oil catch here?
I removed the intake tube and the throttle body looked pretty oily on the inside. Wiped it out and looked passed the gate and the inside of the intake plenum looked very oily and black. I'm guessing that's not normal.
I did notice that this hose on top of the engine that runs from the valve cover to the throttle body seemed very oily, especially at the 90 elbow that runs into the throttle body. This tube is also not the correct size and is a little loose. Could be the source of a vacuum leak. Would it be a bad idea to install an inline oil catch here?
I removed the intake tube and the throttle body looked pretty oily on the inside. Wiped it out and looked passed the gate and the inside of the intake plenum looked very oily and black. I'm guessing that's not normal.
- Thread starter
- #43
Cleaned out what I could with throttle body cleaner without removing the throttle body. I put a new clamp on the hose and tightened the snot out of it. Took a moment to crank and ran really strong for a while. Drove it with good results and then on the return home, it began to struggle when accelerating from a stop facing uphill.
When I came back I decided to pull the oil cap while it was running. There is definately a vacuum on it. Engine begins to shudder when removed. Is this normal? PCV gone bad ?
When I came back I decided to pull the oil cap while it was running. There is definately a vacuum on it. Engine begins to shudder when removed. Is this normal? PCV gone bad ?
I’ve never taken the cap off while running, but it’s logical to me at least to expect some sign of vacuum and even a tad of shuddering. The same symptoms are present when you remove the dipstick while running...and this I know to be normal.
As far as the PCV, it’s an easy fix , with new hose for good measure. My understanding of the valve itself is that once you gingerly remove it, shake it like a salt shaker. If no rattle, it needs replacement. The PCV grommet is the worry if you’re replacing. It’s most likely very brittle , requiring extreme care to remove without its fracturing pieces falling back into the head.
As far as the PCV, it’s an easy fix , with new hose for good measure. My understanding of the valve itself is that once you gingerly remove it, shake it like a salt shaker. If no rattle, it needs replacement. The PCV grommet is the worry if you’re replacing. It’s most likely very brittle , requiring extreme care to remove without its fracturing pieces falling back into the head.
- Thread starter
- #45
Update:
Got fed up and had a mechanic look at it. Really just wanted to have someone pinpoint the problem. Their opinion is that it's the result of 3 things.
Spark plugs gapped wrong. Says that they are gapped to about .015 but I gapped them too about .031 when I installed them. I'll check again.
Spark plug wires braking down. They look good from the outside but I'll go ahead and change them with OEM.
Oil leaking in dizzy could be fouling it out. I've cleaned the dizzy out with electric contact cleaner but same result. Gonna go ahead and change the cap and rotor.
He quoted me 600 for parts and labor but I think that's a little high and i take care of these things myself. My question is can I just change the rotor, cap and o-ring or do I have to replace the whole dizzy?
Got fed up and had a mechanic look at it. Really just wanted to have someone pinpoint the problem. Their opinion is that it's the result of 3 things.
Spark plugs gapped wrong. Says that they are gapped to about .015 but I gapped them too about .031 when I installed them. I'll check again.
Spark plug wires braking down. They look good from the outside but I'll go ahead and change them with OEM.
Oil leaking in dizzy could be fouling it out. I've cleaned the dizzy out with electric contact cleaner but same result. Gonna go ahead and change the cap and rotor.
He quoted me 600 for parts and labor but I think that's a little high and i take care of these things myself. My question is can I just change the rotor, cap and o-ring or do I have to replace the whole dizzy?
I had an acceleration problem that I chased for 9 months. Cleaning and adding dialectric grease to the NSS barrel connector solved the acceleration issue. About 10min of work made a world of difference. Can’t offer any insight on the misfire or rough idle.
- Thread starter
- #47
NSS barrel?
Yeah it’s a barrel type connector near the starter and PHH.
Best to remove the front DS wheel. Then pull back the splash guards, and look for a barrel type connector. Once spotted peel back the rubber boots, open the connector, clean the contacts, stuff with dialectric, reverse all the steps and ride off int to the sunset...Fingers crossed.
Best to remove the front DS wheel. Then pull back the splash guards, and look for a barrel type connector. Once spotted peel back the rubber boots, open the connector, clean the contacts, stuff with dialectric, reverse all the steps and ride off int to the sunset...Fingers crossed.
Any luck?
My random misfire ended up being the coil wire was chewed up. Didn't catch it cause i was looking for other crap i thought was the cause. It's frustrating isn't it.
- Thread starter
- #52
Replaced the coil already. I'll go ahead and order the coil wire with the spark plug wires.
Yes. Very frustrating. It's like its teasing me.
- Thread starter
- #53
Update.
Changed the plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor. Did not change the plugs because they are only a few months old. Sprayed the inside of the dizzy with electric contact cleaner because there was oil inside.
Ran much better for a few miles. Began to run rough again but not nearly as bad. Brief inspection shows that there is oil leaking from under the dizzy after the test drive so I believe that oil inside might have caused the rough idle issue this time too. Gonna go ahead and order the o ring. Hopefully this will fix the leak. Think I may replace the plugs again for good measure.
Changed the plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor. Did not change the plugs because they are only a few months old. Sprayed the inside of the dizzy with electric contact cleaner because there was oil inside.
Ran much better for a few miles. Began to run rough again but not nearly as bad. Brief inspection shows that there is oil leaking from under the dizzy after the test drive so I believe that oil inside might have caused the rough idle issue this time too. Gonna go ahead and order the o ring. Hopefully this will fix the leak. Think I may replace the plugs again for good measure.
- Thread starter
- #54
New used dizzy. Same story. Ran good for a few miles and then crap again. Adjusted the timing by feel when I got back just to see what would happen. There's a noticable change in idle rpms but still a steady lope. I'm stumped. Any ideas?
justbecause
perpetually lost.
You're getting fuel at the correct amount pressure and location?
- Thread starter
- #56
Pulled the fuel line at the gas filter on top of the motor back when this all started. There was plenty of fuel flow.
Not trying to sound like a smart ass, but just because fuel ran out of a connection you disconnected dosen't tell you if your fuel pump is putting out the correct amount of fuel pressure. The only way to know for sure what your fuel pressure is, you have to install a pressure gauge in line and check it.
My experience with intermittent issues is that they tend to be electrical. Usually mechanical parts either work, or not. They generally don't work sometimes and not others.
I would check all of your wiring & connectors. Test your plug wires and replace if they seem questionable. If you're not getting any codes its probably not a sensor. You know the PO attempted a desmog, so someone has been in there monkeying around; I would start there. I would also pull the plenum and check your injector wires and connectors, while you have the intake off clean the inside of it really well.
I would check all of your wiring & connectors. Test your plug wires and replace if they seem questionable. If you're not getting any codes its probably not a sensor. You know the PO attempted a desmog, so someone has been in there monkeying around; I would start there. I would also pull the plenum and check your injector wires and connectors, while you have the intake off clean the inside of it really well.
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When it's missing, are all of the injectors firing? Listen to them with something like this: Amazon.com: Lisle 52500 Mechanic's Stethoscope: Automotive They should all have the same, even click.
- Thread starter
- #60
Dont think that at all. I value all of yalls input. I'll put that on the list of things to check.
I'll check this for sure.
