Random 37's fitment / flex shots / ....
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I'm still on 295/75/16 so 315 would be a step up but I'm trying to avoid the wish I'd gone bigger after thought like I did with the (5) 295's....
jfz80
Cruisin’
Same here. Well same rig but back on 315s and digging it. Second set actually, and now ATs..... maybe im just getting old
A regear somewhere in line may sway me back but no regrets so far. My wheeling style has changed a little as well.thats my biggest thing. as i have gotten older i have learned how to drive much better and i dont enjoy the crazy stuff as much. 315s are plenty for the average weekend trip around here.
I have a set of 37” ko2 that you can have for $300 with 7/32 thread left. I got 43K out of the first 8/32. That’s a near zero risk proposition
.I run the Dobinsons 4” Flexi - the ko2 are small for a 37 and easy to fit. I ran 37” Trxus on a 3.5” lift for years.
I run 2” bumpstop drops that perfectly protect my shocks so I’m not losing any travel with 37’s over 35’s - the only difference is the tire size.
My backspace is 3.5” with 1” spacers. 3.75-4” would be ideal as my suspension travels, but I have avoided excessive down travel gains.
Don’t do 35s. Total wasteland of a tire size.
Yes sir i am, I was thinking that my rubbing experience with the aforementioned springs and stock but lowered bumpstop location was still relevent.
Nope. The front doesn’t rub for any of us with stock front ends because it can’t flex enough. The reason for lowering bumpstops in the front with stock arms is for jounce function at speed so you don’t bottom your shocks.
Mine are lowered 2” for this reason as those stops are designed for jounce compression, nothing to do with articulation.
I thought long and hard about that tire, but I really have no interest in cutting up my rig more than the quarter panels for high bumper clearance.
I went Cooper STT Pro - that tire is 3/4” bigger than the ko2 in a 37. I’m having to tweak fitment accordingly - any bigger is a whole different game.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
any flex pic with those 37" ..?
LC4LIFE
Supporting Vendor
I have been planning on going with the 3" tapered with 37's, already have the 1" body lift. I just cant figure out the backspace/offset wheel width to best fit a 37 without needing spacers, have been looking at the scs wheels options as like their styling but not sure if they will do what i want fitment wise. Wish the 37+ thread had more people posting their specs still.
This has been beaten to death the last couple years so finding the answer you want should require very little research here on Mud.
Yes, I gave the formula in post #18
I just recently ventured outward another 1" on each wheel with 17x9 3.5BS wheels... I lowered the bump stops... currently working out the final bump stop fitment at this time... looks like no extra trimming will be necessary from where I was.
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Been doing plenty of research thanks for the helpful info.
Yes, I gave the formula in post #18
I just recently ventured outward another 1" on each wheel with 17x9 3.5BS wheels... I lowered the bump stops... currently working out the final bump stop fitment at this time... looks like no extra trimming will be necessary from where I was.
I just started following you on instagram and saw the new wheels. You said they are 3.5BS but on post 18 said 4.5bs for a 9" wheel? Also no mention of offset which coming from a tuner world offset is all we dealt in regarding wheel fitment with width. scs has a 17x9 3.5bs -38 offset for example which from stock 16x8 +0 would be about 1.5" outward
Yes, you are correct on the 16x8 +0 which would be 1.5" outward from a centered 8" wheel.
I was running a FJC wheel with 1.25" wheel spacers at approx. 3.75" backspace on a 7.5" wheel (same as a 9" wheel 4.5 BS & a 8" wheel 4" BS) that centered the tread right on top of the wheel bearings. My new wheels are outward 1" from where I was. This has now required me to lower my bump stops.
Does this help?
Sorry this is off topic of Dobinson Tapered & 37s
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This is what has kept me strait with wheels... I couldn't wrap my head around it till I put it on paper... its a dirty chart but this might even help more.
The X & circle is where the center of tread is. Outside lines are the rim of the wheel. The long vertical line is the bolt surface is or the center of the wheel bearings are.
The X & circle is where the center of tread is. Outside lines are the rim of the wheel. The long vertical line is the bolt surface is or the center of the wheel bearings are.
This is without spacers, 17x8.5 -6mm offset rim so same backspace as stock. 2” lowered bumpstops with 10” travel shocks using pin to eye mount adapters.
Minor rubbing in the inner wheel well. But, I don’t like the tires that stanced in and if you look closely I busted the side light as I have run 1” spacers forever and my brain expects to clear tight spaces differently.
The pics I posted above in my driveway have the 1” spacers installed, so 3.5” backspace. The clearances there are extremely tight - a 3/4 spacer would be perfect, so 3.75” backspace. This tire is squared at the tread and it’s a big 37, so clearances are super tight with the spacers.
First two pics are without spacers and minor inner wheel well contact, second two are with spacers. Keep in mind my LCA are lengthened and my quarters are trimmed for my tube bumper.
I’ve installed the Delta panhard bracket to help better stuff the driver’s side (longer panhard pushes the tire out on the DS side pictured here), but 1/4-1/2” less backspace would be ideal.
For 37” ko2, no rubbing anywhere. A new ko2 would be 1/2” bigger than this (8/32nd tread worn down here), but I specifically wanted the bigger 37 vs. trying to go multiple sizes bigger so I’m tuning again.
But for anybody who wants to run the ko2, that tire is simple in a 37, because it’s really more of a 36.
But for anybody who wants to run the ko2, that tire is simple in a 37, because it’s really more of a 36.
