FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
There are multiple steering wheels in tan and gray! Let me know what color you want and I can ask him to contact you
Thanks for the help
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- Thread starter 1loudLX
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There are multiple steering wheels in tan and gray! Let me know what color you want and I can ask him to contact you
Thanks for the help
What is the story on them? and they are the tan/grey and wood?
Alright. After a second thought I will post it now.
I managed to do the impossible. I wasn't going to ask but... I figured I'd get another few opinions. My fears are 1) the frame could crack...2) my frame is bent... This is a fully boxed frame that's massive. I hit the truck so hard the AC,Radio ( still not working right), Ram-mount mount bent and my iPad flew out and anything in the car was a projectile. I had the LC on a series of ledges, I got up all with no contact, last ledge the front end goes up and the rear end hit the next and slammed the front end down, resulting in quite a blow to the frame.
I'm not sure which would of been worse. My slider coming up into the door panels and not being able to bend them down ( not saying mine are weak) or catching the frame and up with this:
So what should I do?
* not loose sleep and drive the hell out of it...
*weld some angle iron on it and have frame sliders? Frame check?
*You posted but you don't know and wanted to get your post count higher?
I managed to do the impossible. I wasn't going to ask but... I figured I'd get another few opinions. My fears are 1) the frame could crack...2) my frame is bent... This is a fully boxed frame that's massive. I hit the truck so hard the AC,Radio ( still not working right), Ram-mount mount bent and my iPad flew out and anything in the car was a projectile. I had the LC on a series of ledges, I got up all with no contact, last ledge the front end goes up and the rear end hit the next and slammed the front end down, resulting in quite a blow to the frame.
I'm not sure which would of been worse. My slider coming up into the door panels and not being able to bend them down ( not saying mine are weak) or catching the frame and up with this:
So what should I do?
* not loose sleep and drive the hell out of it...
*weld some angle iron on it and have frame sliders? Frame check?
*You posted but you don't know and wanted to get your post count higher?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Damn! What's that bolt go to? I wouldn't worry, you didn't split the metal. And you're right, given the size of the frame and the cross-section, it's minor. Hit the bare metal with some Rusto before winter.
Good work, you def. wheel harder than most here.
Good work, you def. wheel harder than most here.
FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
Anthony.L
Looking for the end of the road...
I don't see any reason why not. This is very common in hard core 4x4 rigs, especial uni-body rigs like the Jeep XJ. They completely box the OEM frame in angle iron to make it more rigid and protect from frame damage like yours.
Actually it is probably quite fixable. When I put my LX470 into a tree sideways it sustained some underbody damage, mostly to the sidestep mounts and exhaust. I asked what the repairer would do if the frame was bent, and he showed me a frame in a jig being straightened. He said they could check the frame without removing the body and do some minor repairs that way as well.
I also asked about what they do it the frame itself is damaged, and he said they just cut a section out and weld a new section in, as part of the straightening process. It looks like yours could be fixed the same way, if you can find a real 4WD repairer, and you want to fix it.
Is the damage bad enough to warrant cutting out a section of his frame though, thats the real question. Personally, I don't think so. The metal isn't split, it's just banged up - or so it seems.
If it were me, I'd take a little heat and a BFH and try to square up the damage, then bust out a MIG gun and weld the angle iron on. Hour long project, tops. Maybe a one
job for someone who knows how to weld. Too bad you don't live closer, I'm a damn good welder and work for food since I don't drink.
Good grief Nick.
Edit: Only you could find the one damn obstacle where leaving that stupid looking widget on the frame could have saved you some damage.
If it were me, I'd take a little heat and a BFH and try to square up the damage, then bust out a MIG gun and weld the angle iron on. Hour long project, tops. Maybe a one
job for someone who knows how to weld. Too bad you don't live closer, I'm a damn good welder and work for food since I don't drink. Good grief Nick.
Edit: Only you could find the one damn obstacle where leaving that stupid looking widget on the frame could have saved you some damage.
Yeah, I wasn't saying that he should fix it, just that it was fixable.
It depends a lot on whether the frame is still straight and the suspension still works, and can be worked on. Whether it is or isn't straight, a BFH may result in it not being straight any more, as the metal stretches from being belted.
I would probably be in the leave it alone crowd. My Long Ranger fuel tank has a big ding in it from a rock, but it isn't split so I haven't done anything to repair it. Works fine, even if I have lost a little capacity.
- Thread starter
- #533
Buy a welder and I'll find ways to feed you fuzz.
I guess I think about it this way:
If the frame is bent, he's screwed anyway and will have to pay $$$ to get it fixed. If it's not bent, then a few more whacks of a BFH while the section is heated up isn't going to phase it a whole lot more. As it is right now, he can't weld angle iron over that spot; it'll have to be manipulated one way or another to get it square enough to tack the plates on.
If he wasn't thinking about adding additional armor then yeah, I'd agree to hit it with some rustoleum and call it a day.
I'm trying to talk the FIL into getting rid of his little POS lincoln and spending some $$$ on a nice Miller MIG setup. Tough nut to crack in this economy though.
Cutting a section out is a bit extreme but if I hit the same spot again I may have to. Looks like I'll be putting on some angle iron for a frame slider. This isn't the first "dent" or gouge on my frame. Just the hardest hit and biggest.
At the rate I am going I may as well buy a welder and learn.
At the rate I am going I may as well buy a welder and learn.
If I had it to do over I would have not bought my MIG and instead bought a good AC/DC TIG box given most of my projects are not quite production. I find many of my projects need the finesse of a TIG.
Not to mention I probably could have paid for a TIG box by now with just the savings I would have had from buying all those flapper sanding disks for MIG clean-up.
Liv'n and learn'n.
Interesting point, Spresso. For frame type of stuff MIG is definitely the way to go for stuff like frame welds that need to be pretty stout...but what I would give to have the ~$20k Miller TIG setup that I used in the service. Man was that awesome.
I hear ya on the flapper wheels too. Between those and scotchbrite discs, I'd be scared to see the inventory cost.
I hear ya on the flapper wheels too. Between those and scotchbrite discs, I'd be scared to see the inventory cost.
Yeah...then there's the coin consideration
. If Dynasty 350's were just falling from the sky 
I have a question on aftermarket UCA's
I have Amy jacked up about as high as she can go and my stock UCA's come no where close to hitting the shocks on full droop.
Im assuming that the shocks are limiting the down travel of the wheel, so dose fitting after market UCA's just allow you to fit longer travel shocks and gain more down travel?
I have Amy jacked up about as high as she can go and my stock UCA's come no where close to hitting the shocks on full droop.
Im assuming that the shocks are limiting the down travel of the wheel, so dose fitting after market UCA's just allow you to fit longer travel shocks and gain more down travel?
Yes. Just be sure the shocks are set up to be the droop limiter and not the ball joint/spherical bearing.
