Ramshorns Exhaust Details (1 Viewer)

[TLC76]

After a bunch of searching on the subject, I have decided to ditch the over the frame headers and run ramshorns. If anyone in those cold states wants a quick way to heat the truck I'll make you a deal on the headers.

My question is this: On the side that originally comes with the heat riser valve, does the bottom of the valve have the same recess that the non-riser side manifold does? It appears the crossover pipe has the same interface on both sides (looking at pictures), so I would assume both sides use the flat/tapered gasket?

The reason I ask is that I know there are riser spacers, but if I can simple weld in a small extension on the crossover pipe I'd rather do that. Already sourced the manifolds, now I need everything else.

On a related not, anyone have experience with the "ball and socket" gasketless type interface for exhaust?

 

[spotcruiser]

I used this spacer. It's flat on the top side. I used the Dorman ramshorns, which look similar to the bottom side of the spacer shown below, so you can use a standard exhaust donut or a flat gasket at the manifold.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I used a spacer and had multiple gaskets blow out until I used copper have headers but going back soon as just to loud

 

[reddingcruiser]

If you use two from the left side you can skip the spacer. All you'll need is the "doughnut" seal. They are symmetrical. If you're not into grinding off the alternator/generator castings they are available aftermarket "clean".

 

[Poser]

If you use two from the left side you can skip the spacer. All you'll need is the "doughnut" seal. They are symmetrical. If you're not into grinding off the alternator/generator castings they are available aftermarket "clean".

Ding ding!

 

[67azcruizr]

to answer your next question......... Walker crossover part # 42087

 

[platypusREX]

They sell a spacer. Any performance shop should have one.

 

[TLC76]

I already have the 2" manifolds (1 left one right), probably cheaper to just find another manifold and ditch the spacer. Seemed like all the aftermarket ones were either 2.5" or really pricey. Or just extend one side of the crossover pipe (thanks 67azcruizr, but I did do my searches before asking so I tracked the pipe down ) and try a flat gasket on 1 side. Worst case I grab another non-riser manifold and shorten it again I guess...

Thanks for the pic spotcruiser that answered my original question.

I was going to just fab up my own crossover pipe but I couldn't for the life of me find any flanges that matched the ramshorn dumps. Plus the pipe is only $43 at Summit as much as I hate wrinkle bends...

 

[platypusREX]

2 inch spacer.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={01f6655c-665b-4ed9-81ac-4545ba391471}&gid={9b06eea9-8ce5-4783-ad4c-1c54ed3528ff}&GroupName=Exhaust+Manifold+Heat+Riser&pname=57-74+2%22+Exhaust+Manifold+to+Pipe+Spacer&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&

 

[bikersmurf]

While we're at it' I'll throw up a link to some pictures of heat shield and wire routing with rams horns...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html

Starting around post 22.

One of these days I'll start a thread on it.

 

[Cdaniel]

Another detailed writeup on the subject:
Tech contest Vee Eight Xhaust - Pirate4x4.Com
And using the same manifold on both sides is what I'm doing= no spacer
Amazon.com: Dorman 674-501 Exhaust Manifold: Automotive

 

[73tlcv8]

Its easier to just extend that side of the cross over pipe a couple inches

 

[TLC76]

Okay, so moving at my normal mod speed I am finally about done. One thing I noticed when I was researching this in the first place it there were a lot of top shots of the ramshorns installed, but didn't see much from the sides so I've added a few pics below for future searchers.

I ended up getting the Walker crossover pipe, to use it without the heat riser I had to cut the factory end off which is made for the donut gasket, and fab up a flange and extension to mate directly to the manifold. Painted the manifolds with some 1200 degree paint, and stunk up the house heat cycling them in the oven. Wife was pleased. Got stainless studs from Mcmaster-Carr, and bought stainless nuts that have the sides dimpled to give more of an interference fit on the threads. Had to buy 25 so I doubled them up just for the hell of it. Still finishing the back half of the exhaust, so I haven't fired it up yet. Ran the collector on the crossover pipe right into a small radius and them a flex pipe, the OD of the walker pipe is almost exactly 2 1/2" which is what the rest of my exhaust is. The exhaust is now just above the frame rail, rather than in the rockslider position.

 

[GOPSU]

You might want to remove the manifold gaskets. Cool motor mounts.

 

[bikersmurf]

While we're at it' I'll throw up a link to some pictures of heat shield and wire routing with rams horns...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html

Starting around post 22.

One of these days I'll start a thread on it.

Have your wires melted yet?

 

[TLC76]

GOPSU, care to elaborate on removing the gaskets?

bikersmurf - Haven't run it yet, once I get the fenders back on I will tie the wires back, and I was going to get the heat wrap for the wires near the manifold. The 90 degree boots aren't ideal with these, but we'll see.

 

[PixelWrangler]

GOPSU, care to elaborate on removing the gaskets?

I'm curious also about removing the gaskets. I've heard that some don't use gaskets and don't have exhaust leaks with the rams horns. Then I was cleaning up some stuff in my shop and found a paper that came with my Dorman manifold that stated "The manufacturer doesn't recommend the use of gaskets" So I'm thinking about pulling mine. I have to re-torque the manifolds every week as they are. That doesn't seem right.

bikersmurf - Haven't run it yet, once I get the fenders back on I will tie the wires back, and I was going to get the heat wrap for the wires near the manifold. The 90 degree boots aren't ideal with these, but we'll see.

I didn't like how the 90° boots worked on mine either, so I switched them out to multi-angle boots which I left straight. Routing the wires under the manifolds as bikersmurf has done is maybe a better way to go.

This is what I put on mine to protect the wires. The shields, like bikersmurf is using is probably much more effective and definitely cheaper! My outer shields on #'s 5 & 6 are now a light grey on the side next to the manifold.

Before putting the heat wraps on, my covers were totally baked! Didn't help that the manifold was cracked! But the other side was almost as bad.

You might want to separate the ignition wires also.