Ram assist steering and a locked diff (1 Viewer)

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I am getting ready to add hydro assist and I have two questions.

Mace - have you had any issuse with the tube clamps you are using on your TR for the ram end mount? I am considering the 6-bolt version for mine.

Limit stops on the ram- I understand how adding a hard plastic ring externally will limit the ram compression, but how do you limit extension?

And yes, pics of how to measure would be excellent

Phil
 
You don't need 6 stud (or 5 stud) knuckles. ARP studs or D44 studs in stock (good condition) Toyota knuckles are fine for 99.99% of the time. D44 studs obviously require drilling and tapping the knuckle, but also re-tapering of the steering arm and punching out the holes in the shims to fit over the larger studs.

I've seen clearance issues with the 6 shooter knuckles too.
 
I am getting ready to add hydro assist and I have two questions.

Mace - have you had any issuse with the tube clamps you are using on your TR for the ram end mount? I am considering the 6-bolt version for mine.

Limit stops on the ram- I understand how adding a hard plastic ring externally will limit the ram compression, but how do you limit extension?

And yes, pics of how to measure would be excellent

Phil

No concerns at all with mine, they have not loosened up. The axle end did loosen up a couple times till I added a lock nut on the back side and judicious amounts of red lock tight. The ones I used were actually two set of Shaft collars I had a buddy clearance for the stock 60 series Tie rod. That being said, more bolts is more better..

On the ram, once you limit one side (either extension or compression) the other side is limited by the stock throw of the ram. So, solving one takes care of the other.
 
Got it, now it makes sense to me.
 
Do we have a similar tutorial for drilling and tapping a J8X steering box for hydro assist?
 
J8x? 80 series???

The boxes should be essentially identical as the 60 series. Just bigger.

From this thread on MArlin's Forum (http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0)
80box3.jpg
 
What would be the suggested minimum size for the tie rod and ends?

I have high-steer on a soa and my TR is 1.125 with FJ80 ends (early Marlink). I'm considering upgrading the TR to 1.5.

Thoughts and experience?
 
I sleeved the stock FJ60 TR and DL with Chromo tubing just for giggles. I'm still running the stock FJ60 TRE's. Which honestly I think are just as strong or stronger than 80 series stuff.

Proper mounting of the ram puts the main "force" of the ram as close as possible to the drivers side TRE. That removes a lot of the stress on the passenger side knuckle

Building stronger steering rods is never a bad idea. It's only your safety after all :)
 
Obviously the shaft collars on the tie-rod to attach the ram shouldn't be welded to the tie rod, but would you say two shaft collars should be welded on either side as a sort of key way, to prevent them from sliding?

Yours has been installed for a while, you've never had any issue with this right?
 
No reason at all that you can't weld the shaft collars to the tie rod, other than you are limited to full revolutions of the tie rod for adjustment. Not as great an idea, but not a deal breaker..

The only issue I can see with using additional shaft collars as a limiter is if you need to move the location of the collars for a specific reason (measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe).

My setup has been on there for about 8 years or so IIRC, and it has never moved without me loosening the bolts on purpose. There are two shaft collars that each have two bolts on them (4 bolts total). They are held together by the Ram mount tabs.. It's a very secure setup that has survived playing off road racer, multiple rubicon trips (among other trails) and being a daily driver the entire time.
 
Convinced. Thanks!
 

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