Rainman's Brake Lines (1 Viewer)

[Rainman]

Nope! I'm no longer open for business.
Thanks for the ride guys...

This is all past history now...

If you're interested in new brake lines and want to make a purchase, go to my website: rainmansbrakelines

10/25/19 : Coming soon. Brake lines for FJ55s. After that, FJ60/62s. I'll post the news on the last page.

If you want to read about my research or how this got started, enjoy from page one here.

If you want the newest up to date information...

Lots of changes have been made since this thread began. The first several pages or so has charts that are out of date. Page 16 and on should be up to date. The web link in my signature is current.

Sorry for the confusion. The first 15 pages should explain it but it's a slow read I'm sure.

Thanks for dropping by.

 

[fj401978]

I have a 1978 with stock drums on the rear, I do need rear/front axle lines. Not sure where from, but I ordered a rear line that is still available, but it's for 1981 and up, it stated that it would need 'slight rebending' to fit older models...sheesh, it is meant to be routed under the leaf springs and is way too long to rebend and not be all curled up just waiting for something to snag onto. Don't know what year you have, but might be interested if the price is right and it's routed over the top of the pumpkin and the spring pack. Will keep an eye out for what you come up with! I know there are lots of threads on here for making your own, and pretty detailed, too, but I would have to buy all the tools and stuff...I would just as soon buy the ready made lines from someone else.

 

[Rainman]

The truck I'm mastering these from is a 5/77 FJ40. I'm not sure if I have the time today to get the image up in this thread but I'll try. And yes, the line will go (from right to left) over the punkin', on top if the axle, raised above the u-bolts, 90 then arc downwards toward the rear and then 90 into the wheel cylinder. Simple and clean. I haven't looked at any of the other threads on this but might. Thanks for the interest. I'll try and keep this up. If there's enough interest I'll keep it up.

 

[antFJ]

take a look at sor for the different years

are you making all these yourself - can't imagine doing that with my flaring tool! Takes me forever just to do two ends!

what material will you be using for the lines?

 

[hobbes]

I've got a 74. Interested.

 

[Rainman]

Okay guys, the day job has picked up so sorry for the delay. Not sorry for the work.

Hobbes, Looks like the rear is the same for '74 as it is for the later Cruisers. That's good. It may take a little while before I can get all the patterns made for each year but I'll see what I can do. Here's a shot of the first rear brake line. It's almost perfect. A mild tweak on the first bend from the right and a tad shorter on the left and it's good. (I'll go dig up the crap Custom Tubes sent me for a comparison.) I've included the clamp and allen head screw I will use and where I'd mount it if needed. The tab on the axle could be used but nah...

The lines right now are PVF coated steel lines. Paintable if needed.

 

[Rainman]

Here's the sorry excuse for a line that Classic sent me. Not even close.

I'll try to get a good shot of the new line installed. I'll set up a good light under the truck and see if that helps.

 

[fj401978]

Looks good Rainman, have you got an estimate on $, and how would you ship this...taped on a board? Are you going to do a front axle, too?

Thanks,
Skip

 

[hobbes]

What about the front to rear lines? My rear axle line might be my only salvageable ones. The ones coming off the brake master look bad on mine. I do have a front disk setup now.

 

[Rainman]

Front line is coming next. I'm still science-ing out other stuff on my build but the brake lines are on the top ten list. As far as shipping goes, I'm looking into a possible bubble wrap on a cardboard back. I've got some friends in the plastic biz not far from here. I've barely a started the research on cost. I want to be fair but I also want to make a few bucks so I'll see what I can do.

Right now I could create just about an entire 9/75 and up. At least that's what SOR's diagrams say. I plan to simplify these lines where possible and or needed. That rear line is a great example.

 

[Rainman]

I missed the question:

The line running down the frame to the rear will be easy. Yes, another ridiculously mangled line from Custom.

 

[fj401978]

Cool, and I have no problem with the profit thing...it's what makes an economy. The rear axle line is what I need the most, but would like to replace both axle lines and the frame line. I like the looks of your first line, are you using the nuts with the non-threaded lead in?

 

[Rainman]

Here are some shots of the line installed. Not very good shots but it's the best I can do under the circumstances. You'll also see the fittings are completely threaded.

The SS line in the first shot is Classics attempt... It barely fit.

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

I'm curious as to why you are using the metric brake line fittings that don't have the shoulder to them. I realize that they aren't easy to come by, but I don't know if the full thread fittings will work for older models. I had to get the shoulder type for my 1974.

 

[Rainman]

The fittings are the ones that came on the metric lines. On my '77, the threads go all the way into the female fitting. Thanks for the heads up on the earlier models. I'll need that for my info if I start making them. I'll have to research all that kind of stuff and buy some inventory of both.

 

[brian]

sor has 5 full kits covering '58-'84. about 200 bucks a kit.
i put one on my '75 and everything fit pretty good, plus i think they used oem nuts.

 

[Rainman]

Yep. $259.00 per kit. After looking at the shot of the 9/75 to 7/80 kit, I see familiar out of whack lines. The long line that goes down the passenger side frame rail looks strange. It should be very close to straight with only a few slight bends. And maybe it's just me but I would rather have a two piece line with a union than have them send me long lines like the firewall lines all bent out of shape.

I would like your opinions on that too. Would you rather have a single line that needs to be carefully re-bent and needs to be straightened where the line in some areas end up with wiggles in it or two lines that when put together line up just right?

And where in the world is the tail of the coil on the upper left going? That should be straight down from the coil just like the other line. This looks very similar to the SS lines in my basement.

 

[fj401978]

All of the lines I have taken off of my '78 (12/77) have had the non threaded ends on the nuts, and all of the replacement lines (the left and right caliper pieces and the rear wheel cylinder-to-wheel cylinder pieces) all had the same non-threaded ends on them. I don't know if there is any difference on their ability to seal up tight, but I would kind of prefer the OEM style to replace with. The long axle line that I bought ('81 and up) was folded in half for shipping. I had to straighten it out, which was no problem, as it is a softer metal line. I would kind of prefer a one piece frame line if possible...how stiff is the line you are using, will it bend in half without kinking?

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Will you be making the swirly lines that go from the master?

 

[Rainman]

If I start getting more than a few people interested in these I will be shopping samples of all the different metal lines. I'm very curious about the Conifer lines but wonder if it's too soft. I know it's very expensive. I also would be ordering a box full of OEM fittings. I already have the high dollar Fed Hill flare tool. I've never seen one that works as well as this one does.

I'm hoping to ship all lines without bending them. Now, the two (three with the clutch) firewall lines are HUGE to ship without bending but SS lines are hard and don't like to re-bend cleanly. Steel lines are similar. I believe @Vae Victus has some softer lines and I'm going to be bending his up for him with his material.

Yes. I will be coiling the lines before they meet the frame. I believe that's important with the flexibility of the Cruiser frame. I've seen a hood slide over about 4" because of that. The coils are needed.