Rain Gutter seam and drip rail reseal (1 Viewer)

[chbrow10]

Instead of creating another post on this same thing, and since I basically did the exact same thing with a slightly different product, I thought I'd just tag onto this post.

I tried to get the Maxim product the OP used, but found it unavailable everywhere I looked. I contacted 3M about their "3M(TM) Fast 'N Firm(TM) Seam Sealer 08505" sealer, which is recommended on here, and they responded that it was not self leveling.

I ended up using the Eastwood 2K Self Leveling Seam Sealer. It appears to be the exact same thing (even has the same color and mixing tip), as the OP. There is a decent video on youtube from Eastwood that shows its viscosity (pretty runny). It does not require a heavy duty caulk gun, but I had one already, so I just used it.

Thanks to the OP for mentioning that 1 tube doesn't do it, I bought 2 tubes and that was good, a little left over. I would post photos, except that my truck's rain gutters look EXACTLY like the OP (and my truck is silver metallic). I plan on painting over the sealer tomorrow. Rattle can, don't judge me. For those using this product, my only advice is to be patient with the narrow gutters adjacent to the windshield. Let it run down and it will be fine. I go nervous and made a mess. Don't be like me.

I used the Harbor Freight orange pick set, two sizes of screw drivers, and the Harbor Freight 6 pack wire wheel set, using the three smallest sizes in that package. I used a putty knife as a guard for the wire wheel in the drill.

Total time, maybe 6-8 hours spread over three days. Done in the garage.

So just posting this up so that folks know there is another option from a material standpoint.

C

 

[60Man]

I did this job about 2 years ago and used the eastwood product, and followed the layout and directions at the beginning of the write up and it has been great. I use the quick and easy towers for my roof rack and the seams still look like i just did them. The only tip I can add is take your time and over prep the paint, you will not regret it.

 

[Hojack]

I was looking at my rain gutter today and still looks good as I was thinking about starting this project. My Thule rain gutter mounts lay in the channel. Looks like these products stay flexible. With the weight of a rooftop tent I’m sure the rain gutter mount would destroy the area where it mounts to the channel. Any advise or experience in this would be helpful. Thanks

 

[MarkBC]

I was wondering this too since I used flexible caulking that I think will get damaged by a heavy roof rack. The 3M self levelling sealer is pretty hard so should be able to withstand the clamping.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The SEM flowable seam sealer I used (3m was backordered) is pretty hard. I wouldn't hesitate to put *some* weight on it.

 

[Hojack]

The SEM flowable seam sealer I used (3m was backordered) is pretty hard. I wouldn't hesitate to put *some* weight on it.

My RTT weighs 150 pounds.
I wonder if there is a different mounting style?

 

[Ian Crawford]

3M on mine, have had a 100lb canoe and some gear on my Yakima racks. No issues thus far.

They say its flexible but its pretty darn hard.

 

[Godwin]

3M on mine, have had a 100lb canoe and some gear on my Yakima racks. No issues thus far.

They say its flexible but its pretty darn hard.

Do you remember the specific 3M product? Have a part number? I have 2 60s that need a gutter reseal.

 

[Ian Crawford]

Do you remember the specific 3M product? Have a part number? I have 2 60s that need a gutter reseal.

3M 08307

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/?N=5002385+3293194024+3294857497&rt=rud

Here's my post about it. with some good info:

Builds - 1983 Cruiser Story

Haha yeah, we never came to an agreement on the 40... Probably for the better. New and first baby will be here in August! I did fix the AC in my Cruiser, very nice to have. Added Bluetooth to the factory head unit, also nice to have. On the list is H55 install, alignment and new tires. No...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[NearJetties]

Do you guys recommend removing the old sealer in all cases?

my sealer is dry and I have an a pillar leak but it looks like it’s in very good condition. I wonder if I might do more harm than good picking it out.

I just ordered the 3m self leveling seam, a chisel screwdriver, and a pick set. I have ospho and primer/paint from automotivetouchup on hand.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It's dry and has a leak, but is in very good condition, does not make sense to me. They are mutually exclusive concepts when it comes to rain gutter sealant.

Pick it all out, treat the rust that will be there, and reseal it.

 

[NearJetties]

Meant more that there was no visible rust but you’re right. Who knows what I’ll find underneath.

 

[MarkBC]

Chip it out. And Ospho will leave white residue that must be brushed off before painting. That means you can only use it where you can access to brush it off. So if it seeps in through the seam to areas inside, it won't accept paint if you spray it in there.

 

[Ian Crawford]

@NearJetties a wire wheel set for your drill will help a lot in removing what's left of the old stuff and rust.

 

[NearJetties]

@NearJetties a wire wheel set for your drill will help a lot in removing what's left of the old stuff and rust.

thanks Ian, got a few of those too luckily.

 

[reddog90]

Has anyone used something like Eastwood's high solids seam sealer near the windshield, and then finish the rest with a self leveling seam sealer?

Or should I just use a self leveling type on the whole truck and let it run down the windshield gutters? Seems like this is more likely to make a mess or mistake. But the gutters at the windshield are so narrow, I don't know how I would get the high solids sealer in the gutter and smooth it out neatly.

 

[Ian Crawford]

I "continued" the gutter with blue masking tap and let it run down the a pillar and trimmed off the excess.

 

[Ragetits]

Has anyone used something like Eastwood's high solids seam sealer near the windshield, and then finish the rest with a self leveling seam sealer?

Or should I just use a self leveling type on the whole truck and let it run down the windshield gutters? Seems like this is more likely to make a mess or mistake. But the gutters at the windshield are so narrow, I don't know how I would get the high solids sealer in the gutter and smooth it out neatly.

I used the 3M "Heavy Bodied" Seam Sealer and did exactly what you're describing. Ran the heavy bodied stuff up the A-pillar and probably halfway into the front doors, smoothed it out, then went back with the self leveling stuff for the rest of the gutter. I figured it would keep things neater in the end. All said and done, I didn't smooth the heavy-bodied stuff out as well as I would have liked, but didn't notice until I painted and could really see the texture of my bead. I don't think it'll make too much of a difference, but part of me is worried that I didn't get as good of a seal as I wanted.

In hindsight, I would trust the Mud wisdom and just mask your front fender and let the self leveler run. If you use the heavy stuff on your A-pillar, be sure that you get enough into the actual seam, not just the gutter, and smooth smooth smooth before it sets up on you.

 

[reddog90]

I used the 3M "Heavy Bodied" Seam Sealer and did exactly what you're describing. Ran the heavy bodied stuff up the A-pillar and probably halfway into the front doors, smoothed it out, then went back with the self leveling stuff for the rest of the gutter. I figured it would keep things neater in the end. All said and done, I didn't smooth the heavy-bodied stuff out as well as I would have liked, but didn't notice until I painted and could really see the texture of my bead. I don't think it'll make too much of a difference, but part of me is worried that I didn't get as good of a seal as I wanted.

In hindsight, I would trust the Mud wisdom and just mask your front fender and let the self leveler run. If you use the heavy stuff on your A-pillar, be sure that you get enough into the actual seam, not just the gutter, and smooth smooth smooth before it sets up on you.

Good point. So just mask the fender off and let it run out of the gutter.

I'm guessing I peel all the tape back once it sets slightly but before it is fully cured to leave a clean line everywhere? Then I'd have to go back and retape everything before paint though. I don't want the tape to rip off under fully cured sealer.

 

[onemanarmy]

So what is best to do once the gutters are cleaned out and sanded, before the seam sealer? Any 'rust converter' type paint? No paint at all, just sealer over bare metal? Some other type of prep?

Also, there is really no need to fill up the entire gutter with sealant, all you need is to seal the small seam. (esp. if there is a roof rack mounted in the gutters).....is there a preferred literal 'seam' sealer that people have used?