Rain Gutter seam and drip rail reseal (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Jan 19, 2014
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Location
Philadelphia PA
I had been planning on re-sealing the gutters and drip rail someday as some areas were cracked and causing light rust on the underside painted area of the gutter near the doors.

One day a couple weeks ago, I was walking by my truck and got curious and started picking at the original seam sealer a little bit. From there my destiny was written. I opened up a can of worms and I'm glad I did.

The hardest and most time consuming part was removing the old seam sealer and drip rail caulk. I think someone had put a additional layer of sealant down on too of the original because some of it was a breeze, however other areas were a straight up PITA.

The most useful tools to remove the seam sealer were:

Various picks (straight and angled)
1/4 and 3/8" cold chisels
Hammer
Dremel wire brush (used 2)

As you can see, it's basically a mess once you get started. Lots of patience was required. This photo was taken shortly after I started removing old sealant.

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Some of it was pulverized away once I had some momentum going, other areas were almost like concrete

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On my truck, the vertical edge of the channel had a good amount of sealant locked in. It took some effort at its particular location. The idea is too remove all of the old sealant so I recommend taking the time to do so.

Birds eye view

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As I got to the rear of the truck, I ran into some rusty areas. Again, I'm glad I got curious that one day and started peeling up the sealant. This could have been worse.

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After I cleaned out the old sealant I brushed Ospho throughout the whole gutter and let it convert the rust. Following that, I Dremel wire wheeled the rust and leftover bits of sealant. Finally, using compressed air, blew off dust and wiped gutter with alcohol to remove any residue.

Step one completed.....

Next up was the masking of the truck for primer. The seam sealer I used is Evercoat Self-Leveling Seam Sealer and requires the use of an epoxy primer. Nasty stuff. I used Eastwoods 2k aerosol epoxy primer, which is convenient for jobs like this.

Final sealing materials

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Truck masked and ready for primer

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Primer applied

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The seam sealer is self leveling and unlike similar SL seam sealers, doesn't require an expensive specialized gun. A regular caulk gun will do the trick.

There's two components within the tube that are mixed within the special mixing tip. The sealer comes out like syrup and sets up in under 5 mins so I didn't waste too much time. On my truck (most likely all of them) the rear hatch area gutter is angled at about 15 degrees upward. Parking my truck on a slope, I started there, let the sealer skin over a bit, then moved my truck to a level surface.

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The final product

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So one bottle of the sealer nearly did the whole truck. It looks great (I only did a sloppy job on one small area) and cured beautifully. Once I got to the drip rails, I dispensed more sealer right at the slope and let the excess run down. I got sealer about halfway down each rail. I plan on using 3M Ultrapo Tan sealant too finish this area. The self leveling sealer is about 40 dollars a tube and I think the 3M stuff will work better in this area anyway.

Once I seal the remaining drip rails near the windshield, I'll paint the sealer and hopefully never have to do this again :)
 
Awesome job and great pics! Its going to look good, but more importantly itll be peace of mind! How many hours total do you think it took you?
 
Awesome job and great pics! Its going to look good, but more importantly itll be peace of mind! How many hours total do you think it took you?

Thanks man. I now can understand the costs for proper auto body work. I wish I could say for certain how long it took but Im pretty sure it took me a solid 2 days spread over a couple weeks to do everything. I wanted it to be as clean as possible and not have to do it twice.
 
How was it pulling the tape up at the caulk line? Any edge remaining from too much sealant?

Thanks for the write up!
 
How was it pulling the tape up at the caulk line? Any edge remaining from too much sealant?

Thanks for the write up!

I haven't yet pulled the masking tape. I'm waiting until I topcoat with white before I do that. When I masked the area, prior to laying down primer, I left about an 1/8" of bleed between where I estimated the seam sealer to level out to and the tape. You can see that small border in the last photo. I didn't have any sealer overlap the tape because of this.
 
Great write up, thanks.
 
I have a question.
The sealant dry hard or will it stay rubbery and flexy ?

Great job on it.... it looks really good !!
Thanks for posting !!!
 
I have a question.
The sealant dry hard or will it stay rubbery and flexy ?

Great job on it.... it looks really good !!
Thanks for posting !!!

The manufacturer states that it "remains flexible". I guess that means it remains flexible enough that its not brittle and can handle the stresses seen in automotive use. However, it is somewhat hard. I tried the fingernail test and could not leave much of an imprint. I think its less hard than marine sealant (i.e. 3M 5200) and has great adhesion. I dont see this being inflexible enough where it will crack. Its neat looking stuff.

Here's some detailed info about it.

http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/PIS - Maxim Self Leveling SS rev 122010.pdf
 
Great write-up. Thanks!
 
Really good info Patrick. Thanks
Also, for the rest of us... who are not enthusiastic about digging out all the old gutter sealant, dripping/spraying a corrosion preventative compound in the gutters from time to time will keep the rust away. I have used the type that dries to a waxy film with good results over the decades (on the beach).
 
Really good info Patrick. Thanks
Also, for the rest of us... who are not enthusiastic about digging out all the old gutter sealant, dripping/spraying a corrosion preventative compound in the gutters from time to time will keep the rust away. I have used the type that dries to a waxy film with good results over the decades (on the beach).

I was using Fluid Film in the channel before and it seemed to work well.

How well do you think the sealant will hold up to roof rack clamps and mounts?

I suppose it depends on the particular clamp you're using and its geometry. I don't see this sealant cracking more than the factory sealant does. It seems to be stronger and more flexible.
 
Just to complete my write up, I finished this job tonight. I did have a couple areas where the seam sealer overlapped the masking tape. FYI, the tape does not come up behind the sealant if this happens. Lesson learned.

Still, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

3m Ultrapro Tan in the drip rails. Good stuff

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Paint applied

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Great job!
 
Curious as to what the 3M Ultrapro Tan was used for?
 
Curious as to what the 3M Ultrapro Tan was used for?

I used 3M Ultrapro Tan because I ran out of the Evercoat self-leveling seam sealer right as got to the drip rails near the windshield and the Evercoat is $40 a tube vs $15 for Ultrapro. I was able to squeeze out enough Evercoat to create a small bead halfway down the rails, but not enough to where I was happy with the coverage. Additionally, the self-leveling seam sealer gets hard to control in vertical areas and the 3M Ultrapro is very easy to work with here. The Ultrapro is similar to what sealer would be there from the factory.
 

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