Radiator shopping: 2-row or 3-row? (1 Viewer)

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KLF

Frame waxer
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Southern NH
Was doing some maintenance on the truck last night, discovered my radiator is leaking at 2 place on the top tank. I'm fine with it, I got this radiator off a turbo truck I parted out years ago, so it was basically free. The turbo cooling port is a nuisance anyway, interferes with the intake tube. I had it looked at last summer at a local shop to have the port removed, he told me it wasn't worth the expense, it was on the way out anyway.

Sooo... looking for a replacement. No plastic/aluminum sandwiches for me, thanks, I want old-school full metal brass/copper. I see the CSF brand recommended here, in particular the 3-row CSF2314.

The rad I have now is only 2-row, seems sufficient. Do I really need a 3-row? I can get a 2-row CSF850 for about $20 less.

Looks like CSF doesn't sell one without the tranny cooler built in at the bottom, which I don't need.

Incidentally, I've been putting up with weird cooling temps all summer, and a really noisy fan, seems like it was engaged all the time. Temps never got over 190dF, but it would fluctuate all around, sometimes wouldn't get over 175, but if I turned on the heat, it would shoot up to 185 then come right back down. I suspected my fan clutch was locking up too early, so did some searching and found Amazon sells an OEM AISIN one for $52. At that price, it's not worth the hassle of buying the silicone oil and attempting the rebuild. Swapped it out yesterday and holy cow what a difference. Temp climbs up much faster from cold, then it sits rock solid at 180dF. No more roaring noise, just the usual 22RE valve clatter. Hoping I will have better heat this winter. The new one looked exactly like the old factory AISIN that I took off. Highly recommended!

http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-FCT-003...&qid=1438029218&sr=1-1&keywords=AISIN+FCT-003
 
Get the three row. Better to have the capacity and not be caught short on that looong hill.
 
Your TStat is going to control your running temperature so the only benefit of a 3 row is that in extreme cases you'll have more cooling capacity, and under typical running condition it is going to be allowing less flow through the radiator.

The transmission cooler is what I consider more important that is unless you're running a 5 speed. The radiator integral cooler doesn't just cool the transmission fluid it also heats it up for proper operation.
 
For the $20 difference I'm surprised there's even a discussion. It's like buying an insurance policy.
 
2 row CSF works fine for 22RE unless you plan to do a lot of towing. But for 20 bucks, no question go with the 3 row.
 
I run the csf 3 row. For the small cost increase, it was a no brainier.
 
I'm gonna be that guy, but what is csf?
 
CSF is a popular manufacturer of aftermarket radiators.

I ordered the 3-row, it's sitting in my garage, $190 delivered to my door. Might put it in this weekend.
 
Good choice. You could plumb the tranny cooler into your power steering return line if you were really feeling creative.
 
I wouldn't do that unless routinely operated in cold weather. Very definitely not a good idea here in the SW
 
Finally put this shiny new radiator in today. Fit well, shroud as well, no issues. A couple of minor complaints: there are no "hooks" on the mounting flanges so you can hang it on the front core support while you get the bolts started. The old one I took out had them. And, the drain on the CSF is disappointing, it's just a plastic plug that you unscrew then it splashes coolant everywhere. I much prefer the drains that have the piece of hose on them to direct the stream down into your drain pan or bucket. There was no way to transfer the old one over, without getting into soldering, which would ruin the paint job.

I think I posted this in the Tools section last year, but this gadget is well worth the money:

LIS24680.JPG


You put the correct adapter in the fill neck, set the funnel in, and fill the radiator with coolant. When the radiator gets full, you leave the funnel about half-full, start the engine and let it run until fully warm. All the air bubbles out. Once the thermostat opens and all the air bubbles out, you stick the plunger thingy down into the funnel to seal it off, then lift the funnel off and transfer any remaining coolant into the overflow bottle (or back into the jug). Very slick, much cleaner.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
 
I've always ran Davez Off-road Copper 3 row radiator on my 3vz motors. Its a great quality radiator for the price.

Always use a Toyota T-stat and Toyota red coolant. I also went the extra mile and used trail-gear's silicone radiator hoses.

I hope this helps,

Thanks,
 
I'm not happy with the Toyota t-stat. I have the infamous 2-stage one that Roger Brown made famous. I hate how it stays closed until I see 190dF on my gauge (AutoMeter mechanical), then it suddenly pops open, and the temp plummets. If you're standing at the front of the truck, you can feel the engine getting warm, but the top hose will still be surprisingly cool. Then... pow the thing opens and the top hose gets really hot.
 

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