Radiator overflow tank overflowing

middlecalf

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Anyone ever have an F135‘s radiator overflow tank overflow without any sign of overheating? Radiator top and thermostat housing measure ~100-deg while water pump and lower radiator hose measure ~150 to 170-deg. Head on spark plug side measures ~120-deg around #1 and ~165-deg around #6. Temperature sender mount measures ~155-deg. (IR temp measurements). Perplexed where the pressure is coming from to open cap and fill up/overflow the overflow tank. Also, coolant doesn’t return when motor cools down. New issue, problem just started.

As simple as a bad radiator cap, or something more?
 
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Steamer

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For the cost of a radiator cap I'd just change it to see.

This probably doesn’t pertain to you but thought I’d mention it. With IR thermometers, some folks believe the red laser dot is what reads the temperature when in fact it is just there for aiming. It’s the invisible infra-red that reads it and projects out in a cone shape so the circle that is reading it gets bigger with distance. And if reading at an angle the circle becomes oval. Unknowingly one might be reading not only what they are aiming at, but also averaging in what is around or beyond it.
 

Kayaker

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My radiator reservoir started filling up a few years ago and I was having to suck it out and return it to the radiator after a few short trips. It never overheated. Last April I drove 500 miles from Florida to North Carolina to attend the Carolina Relic Run with no issues. Shortly after arriving, the radiator cracked a seam around the top spewing coolant all over my winch alerting me to the failure. With some amazing assistance from some of the Olde North State Cruiser hosts I was able to remove the radiator and take it radiator repair shop where they flushed it, brazed the cracked seam and repainted it. Took a couple of hours and under a hundred bucks. During the 500 mile drive home the reservoir remained empty and 4 months later is dry as a bone. Apparently the 30+ year old radiator (i replaced it in 1990) had gotten clogged up and when it built up pressure would blow past the radiator cap and into the reservoir.

Based on my experience I‘d recommend taking the radiator to a shop and have it professionally flushed. Bet that will solve the problem and prevent you getting stranded on the road somewhere to boot.
 

65swb45

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For the cost of a radiator cap I'd just change it to see.

This probably doesn’t pertain to you but thought I’d mention it. With IR thermometers, some folks believe the red laser dot is what reads the temperature when in fact it is just there for aiming. It’s the invisible infra-red that reads it and projects out in a cone shape so the circle that is reading it gets bigger with distance. And if reading at an angle the circle becomes oval. Unknowingly one might be reading not only what they are aiming at, but also averaging in what is around or beyond it.
/this\ and double👍🏻👍🏻
 

middlecalf

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New cap’s on its way. Interesting, the coolant returned (mostly) this time, so a vacuum was created with no other pressure leaks. Hopefully it just a semi-failing cap.

I take a lot of readings with my IR sensor to sort of get an average over the area of interest. That’s why I always the ~ symbol when expressing values.
 

65swb45

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I've known a few people over the years that over-analyzed a problem that was just a radiator cap. It was @calico kid that actually bent my ear about always putting it on the table for a recommended initial response. And while his mechanical skills are nowhere near the level of his imagination, I think he was spot-on to suggest this.😊
 

middlecalf

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I’m a great over analyzer. I blame that on my engineering training. And of course my parents. I share nothing myself in that blame 😂.
 

65swb45

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I’m a great over analyzer. I blame that on my engineering training. And of course my parents. I share nothing myself in that blame 😂.
You might want to watch this:



@kulangot shared that with me many years ago, after telling me that I have ‘the knack.’
 
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middlecalf

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Head gasket leak between the cylinder and a water jacket can also cause this

Yup, looking like it.

Yumm!
IMG_4044.JPG
 

middlecalf

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More info
FBI finally released the search warrant, and evidence is not good. (Not that one 😂).

Oil was at/below the L on the dipstick, but after run and coolant dump a couple of days ago it looks like the overflow coolant added itself to the oil after cooldown vacuum. Hadn’t seen this before.
View attachment 3084929

Some mildshake residue on the valve cover, I saw this the last time i pulled it (but there was no coolant in the oil then).
View attachment 3084930

Rockers are all getting oil, a little bit of milkshake thickness to it in places.
View attachment 3084931

First thing out when the oil drain plug was pulled was coolant, then oil (no pics of that enjoyment). Oil filter was full to the brim with wonderful chocolate milkshake, Yumm!
View attachment 3084932

Don’t tell Al Gore about my carbon footprint. (I knew I was burning oil, now I know it was all cylinders 😂)
View attachment 3084933

Next steps:
- drain coolant
- check cylinder compression
- pull rockers and head
- ?
 

ToyotaMatt

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ANY antifreeze / coolant starts to eat away Babbitt ( spelling ) on rod, main and cam bearings surfaces from first contact ,

so do not let this sit for long , flushing the lubrication system , would be my first task , using cheap LOWER viscosity motor oil like conventual 5w30 and a

drill spinning the correct direction driving the oil pump to fluid-force out all the milk shake for any and all bearing journals ....................


@65swb45 may have relevant TECH to add here as well



also a post repair job scope oil change after a hour or so of hot temperature running time is a must do no matter what .........

remember coolant is acidic at it fundamental roots ..

and finally , MY
DENSO Heavy-Duty note pads are going to good use finally :D
 

middlecalf

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Yeah I thought you’d like seeing your pad at work 😂.

Didn‘t think about the coolant/acid issue. Wasn’t going to pull the dizzy but maybe I should now to pump some oil through.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Yeah I thought you’d like seeing your pad at work 😂.

Didn‘t think about the coolant/acid issue. Wasn’t going to pull the dizzy but maybe I should now to pump some oil through.


not should ....... 🤔


MUST DO tonight before bed time .......... 💤🛌

- advance auto parts is open till 10pm nation wide now , you still have time to get a 5 qt jug of 5w30 on sale conventional oil Paul
 

middlecalf

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If it eats it that fast I’m screwed, who knows how long this things been living with coolant in the oil, including it’s completely unknown-to-me previous life 😂.

Heck, have you seen the tops of my cylinders? (Other thread). They’re engraved with super secret ancient script from… ???

But maybe fortunately I’ve been using really cheap coolant so it’s probably not as corrosive 👿 😂.
 

mrboatman

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If it eats it that fast I’m screwed, who knows how long this things been living with coolant in the oil, including it’s completely unknown-to-me previous life 😂.

Heck, have you seen the tops of my cylinders? (Other thread). They’re engraved with super secret ancient script from… ???

But maybe fortunately I’ve been using really cheap coolant so it’s probably not as corrosive 👿 😂.
I think the main problem you have is if you just do a head gasket with a valve job and decking of the head. your bottom end is already worn out your going to just push more past the rings and more pressure on the bearings. I feel your pain I was there. Lots to think over.
 

middlecalf

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…flushing the lubrication system , would be my first task , using cheap LOWER viscosity motor oil like conventual 5w30 and a

drill spinning the correct direction driving the oil pump to fluid-force out all the milk shake for any and all bearing journals ....................
Done
 

middlecalf

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